Soaking in Southeast Asia

The end?

2012-01-12T01:22:00.004+07:00

With over 50 original postings and proving to be the premier destination for information on bathing in hot springs in Southeast Asia, it seems the posting below will possibly be the last original posting for the time-being.

Since a couple of months I have relocated to Europe and seem to have less and less time to pursue my own pursuits and passions, let's hope it won't last for that long ...

This site will remain and will constantly be updated, but let's say less regularly than before. Because as the soaking family has expanded way beyond what I had originally intended, keeping the blogs updated and interested will be very challenging. Even now avid follows are hoping I will chase down more natural soaks in Europe. Alas Europe has done it's best to tame nature such that soaking it the real sense can only take place in more remoter parts of the continent. Let's see!

Maybe it's also time to organize soakers and present to the policy makers and the development elite that hot springs are best enjoyed pristine. Considering the amounts of money poured into the geothermal advocacy, a small cash line to proponents of keeping the soaks as they were could lead to win-win situations.

Anyway that's just my thoughts, let's shift our focus to Thailand, to one of the best hot springs I have visited:

The town, néé the province of Ranong, is synonymous with hot springs. However this link is entirely focused on the existence of Raksawarin hot spring, located not far from downtown Ranong. Developed and overdeveloped, this hot spring is ....

Read more in Soaking in Siam to see whether or not Porn Rang can be rated as one of Southeast Asia's best hot springs!

Slurpy

2011-12-10T02:29:00.001+07:00

The lesser developed
With the differing levels of to-be-expected development concerning hot springs in Thailand, there seems to be no rule, bar one: the more remote, the less developed. But even this rule will have to thrown out of the window.

Chaiya district's (Surat Thani province) distant claim to fame is the Suan Mokkh temple. Established just 50 years ago (or earlier) this forest temple was home to Ajahn Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, one of Thailand's most famous monks (source).

But besides the attraction of the road side temple complex, just a one km walk away is a hot spring; delitefully ...

Read the full entry on Soaking in Siam.

Bombs, nuclear bombs, eve, jokes and belief: an update

2011-11-09T03:34:00.002+07:00

Soaking in Southeast Asia has added another couple of last hot spring reports, just a few more left ...

A potential terrorist threat?
Meanwhile, it's not often that a hot spring / wellness issue hits the front pages, but Britain's the Sun news(?)paper lead story on the 18th of October concerns the

'virus bombs'

that are fish foot spa's, aka Dr Fish. Luckily the story actually determines that the risks are

'extremely low'.

Energetic discussions

Not only are soakers cautious on geothermal energy development, headlines by bloomberg (September 18, 2008!) suggest that naked bathers are staging protests in Japan! Not a handful, but

'millions of naked bathers'.

However the article does little do substantiate the claim of staging protests and why specifically naked bathers are opposed to geothermal energy (are textilites pro?). The article does once more highlight the difference in interests concerning thermal waters and the lack of possible consequences that geothermal power production may well or not have on other uses.
Better documented is the Guardian's reporting from 2009, though now the soakers are in a lather!

'Geothermal developers insist that power plants and Japan's thousands of spas - or onsen - can happily coexist. But the 7,400 people of Kusatsu, more than 90% of whom depend on the tourist trade for their living, are not convinced. The fear that energy development will rob the town of its precious supply of hot, mineral-rich water has propelled them to the forefront of the anti-geothermal movement'.

A case in hand is just a snippet of very recent news from energybusinessnews.com.au which actually misleads readers in thanking that developing the Innot hot spring into a geothermal plant will create a spa resort, despite Innot hot spring already being a well-visited tourist site (see onsen soaker's review)!
And then back to what this blog is about, the current day. The Daily Telegraph runs a blog (October 28, 2011) on how geothermal energy will be the answer to Japan's nuclear problems.

'Such a measure would invariably face opposition from the powerful “onsen” lobby – but would clearly mark a step in the right direction in terms of Japan finally tapping into the potential of one of its most powerful but overlooked natural resources'.

Surprisingly more than 70 persons comment on the blog.

Another two days earlier none lesser than the Wall Street Journal (October 26 2011) again looks at the issues at hand, but with reference to Indonesia. Poor regulation are hampering the investment in geothermal energy. And then there is this:

'Some projects have been delayed by local politics. Geothermal start-up Bali Energy, on the resort island of Bali, started exploration close to 15 years ago and received most of the necessary approvals in the 1990s. Its plans to rev up production several years ago hit a bump when some groups expressed concern that tapping geothermal wells would drain a nearby lake. Hindu leaders, meanwhile, worried that meddling with nature’s pressure points could anger the gods'.

And pointing to the Lapindo mess (see below), the Hindu leaders may have a point ...

Finally another threat, mentioned from the Borneo Post (November 1). Melaka's chief minister is eying up the potential of his state's two hot springs for commercialization as spring water. It would even

'generate good income for the people'.

Stuff the soakers?

Risk management
Though geothermal mud usually has medicinal qualities, the case of Lapindo in Indonesia illustrates how the lack of geological know-how and a gun-ho mentality can have severe adverse consequences.
The human tragedy is yet to be addressed, but the Indonesian government is reported to be lining up $2 billion as compensation.

Back to nuclear and geothermality.
Revitalizing Fukushima's onsen's is highlighted by the need to get Hula girls to the front. A past ploy to stand out from the crowd was to use Hula girls to attract customers to the spa town of Iwaki. With the re-opening of the local soaks imminent the Hula girls will need to attract previous customers and somehow let the visitors forget how close they are to Fukushima ...

Claims to fame
The Dead Sea, though not geothermal, has it's own medicinal qualities due to it's high salt content and it's mud. Less well-known are China's own versions of the Dead Sea. Highlighted by a recent posting on factsaboutchina.com there is Daying in Sichuan (a multi-million $ resort pumping salty waters from 3000m depth; a great success as it is now granted the accolade 'world's most packed swimming pool'!), Yuncheng in Shanxi (or Salt Lake City, apparently a lake with medicinal mud) and Shouguang (Shandong, a 'don't sink lake').

Planet's most incredible and exclusive hot springs contains a few Asian inclusions (Kamuiwakka, Beppu, Yangbajing, Oymyakon and Betiou) but none from Southeast Asia. Asia's strangest spa therapies lists durian rubdowns and Buddhist massages though why the latter is included is unclear. A list too far? Twenty truly odd relaxation techniques has hot stone therapy (seen in Ranong), cupping and Dr Fish.

And on October 31st Getty Images runs a picture of 14,325 soakers in Chongqing China.

Bloggosphere
Malaysia

Another condemnation of Bentong hot spring posted by Leven Woon:
'The spring has gone to seed; it was filthy and several used condoms could be seen on the ground'.
He asked the local council why so? As always they deflected responsibility and looked at the bright side:
'“But beginning last year, the state awarded the management contract to Suria Management Berhad,” he said. He [Bentong Municipal Council urban planning department head, Affandi Razali] added that the company is now surveying the land and will soon clean up and revamp the place. “They will build a resort and a conference room at the place, and start imposing door fares at the gate,” he added'.
Oddly enough, on the internet just the one link to this company. Now two ...
So instead visit another nearby hot spring, like ummmm ..., Selayang. Kenneth says reports that the third well is least hot but the reason for its' under usage is as follows:
'We were told that people normally urinate in the well while soaking in it. Didn’t feel the need to find out for ourselves, so we avoided that one like the plague'.
Despite this he manages to have a good experience and makes mentions of the possible positive attributes of this spring. He likes it so much that the next week Kenneth makes another pleasant visit.

'Les pieds dans l eau et le souffre, 45 degres !'

By Tonio et Marion, Dieng, Java Indonesia.

Indonesia

Bali soaking goes upmarket with the Ayu Kintamani Hot Spring Private Villa, eight suites (some?) with hot spring jacuzzi's. tripadvisor?
'The hotel is a joke'.
Visiting hot springs can turn deadly. On their way to Ciater a traffic accident killed 4 potential soakers.
Despite Indonesia being a densely populated country, there are still hot springs to be discovered. This blog, based on an off-chance of encountering a Sumatran Tiger near Kerinici ends up in a very undiscovered and unnamed hot spring:
'There I am alone in the jungle with nothing but the sound of running water and the melodious chirping of birds. Something about standing naked in the Sumatran jungle makes one feel a bit like Adam in the garden of paradise. Unfortunately, Eve was nowhere to be found'.
And no tiger either, a very enjoyable read.

Singapore

In Singapore more of the same. Wildshores blogs on a rare plant trek by involves the off-chance of discovering the
'fabled hot spring'.
Alas?
'I managed to reach this series of pools with white stuff on the ground. The water in most of the pools were cold, but in this one, the water was quite warm! I didn't smell any sulphur though. Is this the hot spring that Dr John Yong told me about?'

Thailand

Another newish find, Phra Nang Waree Raksa, a private resort near Klong Thom hot spring, Krabi. Bangkok Post (24 September 2009) has a nice write up of a visit there.

Philippine

Soaking is healthy science tells us. In Los Baños there is also the belief that the waters can heal.

A final note, though Asia prides itself on hot spring eggs, Italians are reknown for hot spring spaghetti ..

Royalties ...

2011-11-06T14:31:00.001+07:00

Royal reverberation

Rated as one of Thailand's most popular hot springs (source), Raksawarin hot spring has become the province of Ranong's no. 1 natural attraction. Such that the hot spring is often referred to as Ranong hot spring.

But the real name is Raksawarin. It's claim to fame ....

See Soaking in Siam for more.

Not so Samui?

2011-10-08T13:38:00.001+07:00

Provincial bliss?

Surat Thani is a well established province for tourism, though the fact that all this tourism is concentrated on the boutique island resort of Samui and the full-moon party island of Phangan means that the mainland part of the province is often by-passed, neglected even.

Surat Thani town itself is ....

See Soaking in Siam for more.

An update ...

2011-09-10T23:55:00.006+07:00

Quite significant news is that I have moved away from Southeast Asia, so sometime in the future, first hand reports will dry up ....
In the meantime though, I still have a couple of reports upcoming, of a journey I made through the northern part of south Thailand.

Think Green? Not Soak?
This years earthquake and tsunami exposed Japan's over reliance on atomic energy.Within Japan this has lead to a more sustained push for geothermal energy.
What makes Japan stand out from other countries is the ingrained appreciation of soaking. Any possible project in Japan which would affect soaking possibilities stands less of a chance of becoming a reality.

The Mainichi Daily News (September 3) reports on an onsen hotel (Kuju Kanko) with electricity generation. Unfortunately the price returned by the government prohibited the electricity generation from being profitable (great policy) but this hotel did get a much more positive image from generating it's own electricity, enabling the owner to hark back some of the losses.

Monocolumn adds in another article the fear that the push for more geothermal energy will have adverse effects for soakers especially as the overall scope that geothermal energy will have a sufficient contribution to Jaspan's overall energy needs:

'.. many hoteliers and innkeepers are dead-set against having geothermal prospectors drilling in their backyards. They worry that a power plant nearby would harm the environment; worse, it might deplete the heat that keeps the local springs warm, they say'.

Kenji Hall, the reporter of this article, adds a positive example of how the two could exist, similar to the above experience and concludes:

'The technology will need more success stories like that to avoid being branded as the villain. Geothermal energy won’t likely to win the sympathy vote if the public has to choose between a niche technology and a leisure activity that has been around for centuries'.

With oil prices refusing to drop substantially, the lesser endowed geothermal countries in the region are revving up their investment plans. Both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai (Thailand) will be part of research and find for a 2-10 MW installation.
Malaysia are thinking bigger, 36 MW (Phase 1).

'Speaking after negotiation meeting between the stakeholders for the Geothermal Power Plant project at Kg Tass Balai Raya here, Wednesday, he [Project Director Andrew Amaladoss from Tawau Green Energy Sdn Bhd] also assured the kampung people in the nearby area that the project has no threats to them.He said that among the advantages of using geothermal power was it is clean, required not a big area, cost saving and is not harmful to the people and environment'.

Added was that the geothermal project is not harmful to the people or the environment ...

Actually the Think GeoEnergy website is a good source for geothermal energy news. From the past months there are reports on projects in Lampung (Indonesia), Lahendong (Indonesia) Sarulla (Indonesia), Naga (Philippines), the Philippines and West Sumatra. And more ...

Crossing the divide, culturally
Hot springs in China are becoming a target for Japanese hot spring companies. relax.com.sg reports that:

'According to a recent report by the UK's Financial Times, Gokurakuyu aims to open its first spa in China by March 2011 with its partners, an affiliate of China's Citic Group and Japanese investment company MBK. The company has also announced an aggressive expansion plan to run 100 variously-sized spa houses in China within five years, more than it operates in Japan'.

Coming from Japan, they are well aware of the different soaking culture in China, f.i. solely targeting businessmen rather than being a family outing (btw what about businesswomen?). Another example:

'In parts of China where people feel uncomfortable bathing communally, Gokurakuyu expects to include an area for customers who want to wear swimming costumes'.

Seeing how in the past, Chinese authorities have lambasted non-costume swimming as 'western decadence' it probably means that Japanese 'bathing' will not be the next big thing ...

Meanwhile back on the theme of China and Japan, a recent internet report pointed to the fact that many Chinese wish to visit Japan to enjoy their hot springs as opposed to westerners ...

Than what does Japan think about this? Weird culture (sideline):

'A NATURE park in China’s Hunan province is offering free admission and prizes to virgin females aged 22 or older, according to the state-run Global Times'.

Sex discrimination? Culture? A Japanese hot spring TV show has caused controversy as it employs 'an adult video model' to crank up the ratings.

'The “Let’s go to the spa and more!” broadcast by Japanese Fuji TV Station is actually an “adaption” of the old one “Go to the Spa!” which was first introduced to audiences of all ages in 2000, and mainly features the hidden hot springs (secret hot springs or secret tang) throughout Japan. In 2008, the show took a daring change by featuring the female host wearing only a towel and its name was changed to Let’s Go to the New Spa! The rating increased slightly after that. In the latest revamped programme, the host strips her clothing one by one before entering the hot springs naked'.

As soaking au naturel is a cornerstone of Japanese culture and many villages manage to attract significant numbers of tourists wishing to enjoy a soak dare we say naked, tv programs denying this seem a bit unreal. Anyway in reality it's all very tame ...However, already back in February Japansugoi reported on the increasing popularity of the show (DVD's also available). It notes:

'While nudity is not a big issue on Japanese TV, this onsen show by its very nature has the charms of the onsen demonstrated by way of a female reporter’s nude bathing'.

Just one of a series of photo's by Paula Bronstein. Text with the series:

'Japanese earthquake victims enjoy a communal bath set up in tents by the Japanese Self Defense Force March 26, 2011 in Rikuzentakata, Iwate, Japan. With hundreds of thousands made homeless by the quake the baths are essential since the makeshift evacuation centers have little running water'.

The regional news

Soaking festivals are the in-thing. The Philippine Information Agency reports (Sept. 9) from Los Baños:

'The Special Science and Nature City of the Philippines will celebrate Bañamos—a unique healing waters festival—beginning September 14 that will highlight the town’s colorful history capped by various fun-filled events. ... The Dia Aguas Santas (Day of the Holy Waters) is set on September 17 where a symbolic public bathing will be held in a hot spring pool blessed with holy water near the Immaculate Conception Parish Church'.

And ziplining and soaking? Head for Bamungao Pangasinan, Philippines:

'Zipline ride offers you a view of villages, extinct Mt. Balungao, and flowing hot and cold spring'.

Annah Rais hot spring, Sarawak (Malaysia) continues to gather favourable reviews. For instance Dawn Poh. And JG.
That has been noted by local politicians who will now move their constituency up to the 'modern' world. Borneo Post report (September 5):

'Speaking of one famous spot, the Anah Rais hot spring, he [Deputy Tourism Minister Datuk Dr James Dawos Mamit] proposed that a study on the carrying capacity of the spring be conducted to improve the facilities there'.

Oh no, study the carrying capacity!

Pai, Mae Hong Son (Thailand) keeps on moving up. And so does it's hot springs. New kid on the block: Pai HotSpring Spa Resort (lot of effort in finding a name). Though probably just a rename (from Thapaispa) their own guest review page gives a positive shine on the rename.
However continue on tripadvisor and you will be shocked by for instance this entrance from August 2010:

'This hotel is filthy and just rely on the hotspring appeal to rip travelers off'.

I wasn't impressed either but that was 5 years ago ...

A Russian language, extensive site on Siam's soaks.

Wrapping up, more cross cultural exchange. The US is doing it's part ... to help China's science get a grip of it's hot springs. Montana State University is leading a research project in Tengchong, Yunnan. Part of the surprise is that in Tengchong visitors boil eggs in the springs, which in Montana would be an offense and get you a nice fine ...

Thermophiles challenged

2011-09-08T00:21:00.002+07:00

Directing development
Directing funds to tourist adventures sometimes leads to strange situations. Raksarawin hot spring of Ranong, Thailand, is an example of incessant funding, in this case leading it to be a tourism highlight. However, just down the road, Phu Lum Phi hot spring is left forlorn and undeveloped.

Untouched it's not ....

See Soaking in Siam for more

Soaking in the shade

2011-08-08T13:47:00.002+07:00

On the edge
Chumphon is a touristically underrated province in Thailand. Too far away from Bangkok to warrant a weekend trip, too close to make flying there practical. Back (and flash) packers are all on their way to Ko Tao, a veritable divers paradise slowly edging to high end boutique-ness.

See Soaking in Siam for more ...

Wellcome

2011-07-10T22:40:00.003+07:00

Wow
In all honesty there's not much to distinguish visit's to some of Thailand's hot springs from each other. Sometimes well signposted, sometimes not at all. They are all are designated to 'wow' the visitors, attract more tourists and line the pockets of local entrepreneurs and governments.

See Soaking in Siam for more ....

Another update, mid-June 2011

2011-06-13T09:47:00.012+07:00

Soaking in Southeast Asia has slowly been gaining more popularity, the blog receives more than 40 visits per day and more than 4,500 page views per month, which is increasing month by month. The Himal blog is also seeing more traffic (despite no new entries; I'll be reworking and updating the original ones), but surprisingly Soaking in Siam is lagging behind. That despite for instance two new original blog entries from Phetchabun province, Phu Toei and Nam Rong.

Most popular entry on this site is the entry on art and hot springs though the more recent entry on mud is catching up; in the last 30 days this entry clocked up three times as many entries as the art entry, which itself just had more pageviews than other older blog entries. Considering the amount of time I put into the mud entry I am not at all disappointed.

Upcoming is less great news as I will be leaving the region in the foreseeable future, though more Thai soaks will be added before. As well as an overview of Thailands top soaks.

Fishy business once more

Apparently a never ending story. Travelfish Siem Reap blog has an entry on the fishy foot massage business. Though they also note the concern, they repeat how pleasurable it is:
'Admittedly, it’s not completely unpleasant having your feet nibbled, though many would doubtless prefer the Princess Fergie school of toe-nibbling to having actual schools of fish perform the dirty deed. The sensitive among us clearly find the experience so earth-shatteringly, ooh, ticklish, that screams, shrieks and loud whoops are in order, causing numerous people to drop their beers with fright. Actually I made the last bit up, but to the screamers, do you have to? Really?'.
The rash of fish massages is now spreading to the other haven of tourists, free of legalities, Phnom Penh.

Last month the Guardian had a feature on fish pedicures as it debates their increasing popularity and health issues:
'Following the decision by more than a dozen states in the US to ban the pedicures over fears they could spread infections and disease, scientists from the Health Protection Agency have begun an investigation into potential risks. A spokesperson for the agency said that, while it did not expect to be enforcing a ban in the UK and believed the risk of catching an infection from a fish foot spa to be "very small", it was looking at publishing guidelines for the public'.
The article continues and as always the case in Britain, protecting the fish may well be the single most important issue if a ban is imposed!

Beautiful blogs

Well, I pride myself on my ability to seek out obscure hot springs in what many would consider a wild goose chase. However a blog entry by Ben seems to encapsulate an even more determined spirit. On a hunch he seeks a zoak in Zhongdian, Yunnan, China. He was advised to find out a hardly known hot spring with magical properties. On his bike it took him no less than 5 days to find the place, each day filled with taking in the surroundings and having mini-adventures (and doubling back to Zhongdian). He eventually finds it, a small enclosure packed with mud and just a trickle of boiling hot water.
'Concerning Nom’s therapeutic, secret mountaintop, cave-side hot spring bathing pool, there wasn’t, not even for a moment, a sense of being let down. Rather, it was a fitting cosmic reminder that beyond any doubt the search for this mud was the real reward, and never, no matter how nice the pool would have been, it wouldn’t have been anything more than me swimming in some hot water. It’s also I think perfectly fitting that both times I followed Nom’s advice to go seek out some amazing water, there wasn’t any water to behold. I mean, really, that’s something. Yet, in one manner I think he was right. I can only assume through some extreme-condensation that the water in this formerly brimming pool must have had some residual super-magic in it. While the extended exercise in the crisp mountain air I think has done my body good, and while this is just anecdotal, my new ability to read minds I think is worth noting, and cannot be solely attributed to cycling in the Himalaya. Though, to risk sounding less than humble, being a mind reader now isn’t really all that much of a change, as it seems China only has one thought on its mind: “You can’t use chopsticks.”'.
As always the journey is worthier than the destination. Too often in modern days we are only concerned with the destination, overlooking the more valuable journey. If I would be in the habit of awarding annual prizes for Best Story on Soaking, Ben would have bagged this years prize easily ...

Geothermal energy, a hot item?

China is aggressively seeking to increase the importance of geothermal energy in meeting the countries seemingly insatiable demand for power. Could be worse.
No less then Pippa Middleton will help in promoting geothermal energy in the UK according to Think Geoenergy, though not known in which capacity ...
In Japan, a turn has taken place to geothermal power. An investment advice notes that despite Japan's volatile geothermality, power has not been developed as in other countries. Why not invest?
'However, by and large its thermal regions have been transformed into onsen – hot spring resorts - which are a hugely significant phenomenon of Japanese culture. Many of the best resources are in national parks and in popular tourist spots. Indeed, reverence for hot springs is such that one geothermal energy expert declared that they are regarded as almost holy by the Japanese'.

The cultured

AsiaSpa has a feature article on onsens in Niseko, Japan. This Singapore edited, East Asia marketed magazine apparently acknowledges that spa in essence (and naturality) is a hot spring but as it focuses on the higher income generating minority of the regions public, it can't suggest a local soak. However Japanese soaks come with instructions, all matter of fact:
'The most common mistake first-time visitors make is to enter the baths in swim suits, which are not allowed'.
Well, as anyone visiting a Southeast Asian soak will contest (with exception of Vietnam), one would believe that swim suits are not allowed as well; everybody just soaks in their daily clothes! Other pointers: don't stare, don't be noisy, don't bring your own drinks. In other words if visiting a regional soak here, expect them to be noisy with visitors staring and drinking. And consider yourself lucky because it could be a lot worse ...
Tourists from China are spoiling weekend aways in Taiwan:
'No work, no computers, just relaxing in the hot springs, taking a drive around, and eating. But the Chinese tourists staying at the resort almost spoiled it'.
What a horror!

Hot trend?

Anyway, the region is trying it's best. Newcomer to cater to more demanding visitors is Alba Health Thermal Resort, next to Thanh Tan hot spring near Hue, Vietnam. Pictures are on Picasa. They claim to the first balneotherapy resort in Vietnam, balneotherapy referring to medicinal use as opposed to recreational use. Now why this distinction? If soaking recreationally, surely the medical benefits would also be included. Or is it simply an expensive term to discern itself from the hordes? Anyway, looks like a nice place to stay and I hope that they become a guiding light to others. As long as they don't move any more upmarket ...
Burilasai Hot Spring Resort and Spa, Mae-On, Thailand is another newcomer, at least in name. Not much info ... It mentions 'hot mineral', hopefully it means hot mineral water, because the pictures seem not to emphasize it's soaking qualities ... 269 friends on Facebook. One respondent on Agoda mentions the
'spa is great'.

Tops

Webecoist start off with 13 natural swimming pools from around the world. Some hot, some not. Yangbajain (Tibet) and Blue Lagoon (Iceland) are the hottest, but neither is natural! Representing Southeast Asia are Tat Kuang Si waterfall in Lao and Mabinay spring in the Philippines.
Top diving equipment has it's Top 10 Unique Natural Springs of the Philippines. 1-10: Salinas Salt spring (not hot), Tangub HS, Malumpati (not), Hidden Valley HS, Timoga Cold Spring, Ardent HS, Tukuhan HS, Sto. Niño Cold Spring, Asin HS and Tiwi HS at no. 10. All
'really worth visiting'.
Staying with the Philippines, there are also
'6 Ways to Soak in Ardent Spring in Camiguin'.
With crossed legs, folded knees, one leg folded, lying flat (legs inward or outward), floating in frog position! Ha! By tagabukid8705.

Then there are 15 Laguna hot springs. An alphabetical listing.

Finally, there's the new hot spring of Taal volcano, the Philippines (source). It's lake is increasing in heat and would qualify as a hot spring.

Update Mid April 2011

2011-04-16T07:12:00.004+07:00

In reality there's little to mention over the past 3 months, despite it being the best time of the year for soaking in Southeast Asia. Now the heat is on us and we can sit at home and soak in our own sweat.

This blog has been busy, adding entries on Lao and Vietnam as well as an extensive standard setting entry on global mud baths and another entry on the most popular soaks this side of the globe. Next month will see a few more entries in Soaking in Siam.

Though not exclusively Southeast Asian I would like to draw your attention to the following. The first is an entry on japansugoi, it focuses on hot springs on tv:

'Fuji TV’s popular onsen ジテレビの温泉番組 show is called “Lets go to the Onsen or Onsen ni Ikou!”. That program was so successful they decided to make an upgraded version called ” Let’s go to the onsen more! or Motto Onsen ni Ikou!” もっと温泉に行こう'！'

There's a long way to go for Southeast Asian soaks ...

Other big news from Germany's Focus magazine on New Zealands Hot Water Beach. A good write up (if you can read German)

From the blogosphere, a description of Ban Nam Ou, Lao on travelfish:

'Everything is shabby and funky but also crazy and cool'.

'Native laotians bathing in the hot springs south of Luang Prabang
I saw this incredible view out of the bus window, near Nan Keng on the highway between Vientiane ad Luang Prabang. (Geotagged picture, thats how I know), people bathing in steamy water - but my camera was tucked away and I didn't have time to catch it. Then 10 seconds later he bus stopped to let out someone who had to pee :) I grabbed my camera and ran back 200 meters and catched this picture, it was one of the rare minutes it didn't rain on the whole (11 hour!) bus trip back to Vientiane'.

Photo of Ban Nam Ou by Sunday Laks

Southeast Asia's Top 10 2011

2011-04-06T09:19:00.004+07:00

More than one and a half years have past since a collated data on the internet savviness of Southeast Asian hot springs and present to you in a top 10. Back then Soaking in Southeast Asia wrote:

'Though arrived at through repeatable measurement, it has to be acknowledged that there is considerable bias in the results.
English is the main language in some countries and counts especially for Malaysia and Philippines.
Income and thus internet use once again counts in favour of Malaysia.
Names for hot springs are sometimes fluid, especially in Thai, where one can have many different versions for the same hot spring. In Vietnam and the Philippines this is less the case.
Due to changes in ownership, hot springs change name which does not favour a large number of hits. See for instance Toya Bungkah, which was previously known as Kintamani, a much more often used name. And would have made the top 10.
Internet is disproportionally skewed towards English. Vietnam sees relatively more non-English speaking tourists.
Some hot springs carry easy names referring to larger places, such as Fang or regions. Banjar for instance, would have been third instead of fifth if Lovina (the name for the region) would have been used'.

Much of the above is still very much true.

Used were searches on google, bing (new), flickr, tripadvisor's Asian forum and google blog (new).

So again caution when interpreting the following top 10 as of April 5 2011:

1. (1) Poring, Malaysia
2. (4) Fang, Thailand
3. (3) Ardent, Philippines
4. (5) Banjar, Indonesia
5. (-) Asin, Philippines
6. (2) Sungai Klah, Malaysia
(7) Thap Ba, Vietnam
8. (-) Kham, Lao
9. (10) Tambun, Malaysia
10. (-) Pedas, Malaysia
(-) Binh Chau, Vietnam

Sungai Klah drops, possibly an anonomy. Purely on Flickr, the number of Sungai Klah photo's has doubled, though ranking stayed the same. With tripadvisor many of the other hot springs scored better.

Muang Kham in Lao is a newcomer as is Asin (Philippines), no idea why they have become so much more popular. Maquinit (Philippines) dropped away altogether, would now be twelfth.

Country wise, Indonesia seems less popular.

It's surprising how in just one and a half years much more info has come online. Fang for instance has received more than 150 times more links. Sankampaeng (Thailand) has seen the number of links on Flickr increase 5 fold.

Do note that this says nothing of the quality of the soaks nor over the degree of greatness of each soak. It might just be the opposite ....

By the looks of it, Fang hot spring is getting hotter! Photo by Hannah Says Hi:

'Fang Hot Springs This water is SO HOT. A geyser shoots every 20 minutes. Family fun!'

The rein of confusion

2011-04-04T15:01:00.004+07:00

Duc My
Confusion reins concerning the hot spring of Duc My.

Duc My is a village located along Vietnam’s Highway 26 which connects Vietnam's Khanh Hoa town of Ninh Hoa with Buon Ma Thuot (Dak Lak provincial capital), close to the Cambodian border.

However my driver speeds through Duc My, a village located on the banks of a nice river, just before the road leaves the lowland for the foothills covered by extensive sugarcane and cassava fields.

It is 9 km after Duc My village that there is a turn-off to the left down a 100m wide dirt 'avenue' before we halt in front of a house. An attentive man sells an entrance ticket (5,000 VND, about US$ 0,25) and explains to proceed to behind the house.

A short way after the house one comes across two shallow ponds. Around the ponds are a number of shaded picnic tables. Just upstream of the ponds is a 3m high, 10m wide piece of rock which emits both water and steam. The host who had accompanied me illustrates nature’s oddities by simply announcing that the water is 70-72 degrees. That’s Celsius.
The water body (see photo below) is a man-made 1 m wide basin halfway up the rock, roughly 3m long. There’s another basin, same size, equally hot.

One can scramble over the rock, there are quite a few holes from which hot water streams. It all doesn’t look soakable: the ponds are too shallow and look very muddy, the basins are for boiling eggs or such. Vietnamese guests seem to have found the only way to use the water: adding it to their noodle lunch.

I scramble around and must conclude that, no there is no way to soak.

Clear
I return to the house and try with help of my driver and the host's son try to clarify one or two things. For one, I always said I wanted to go to Duc My hot spring and my driver went straight to this place (without any need to seek questions), so this must be it.

However at the spring site itself, they refer to this place as Truong Xûan (Suan). Then there is this reference to a hot spring, about 5 km past Duc My called Ong Me with some descriptions which remind me of Truong Xûan, though it distinctly says it is not Truong Xûan:

'Beside Truong Sinh [or Xûan?] Hot Spring that is very well-known, tourists coming to Ninh Hoa District, Khanh Hoa Province recently rumoured about a new hot spring which has a very peculiar name of Ong Me'.

The description though is not of Truong Xûan.

The attendee and taxi driver have not heard of Ong Me, which if closeby seems a bit odd. Is it thus another hot spring? Or not? Then again this reference of Duc My hot spring has another description of it’s location,

'close to National Highway 1'.

Which it is not. But the other two sentences would not conflict with what I experienced.

And a reference to Truong Xuan hot stream:

‘located in Ninh Tay Village’.

Which according to my sources is correct. But surprisingly it also adds that

‘the precious natural mineral water is processed into beverages’.

Which I observed no proof of. Why can't life be more simple?

Hope
Mr Rakuda of his hot spring journal fame, has visited what he also calls Duc My and the photo's posted are very similar to what I experienced. Translation of the text does not add much to the above other than that back then (2005) he did bathe in the lower pond ... (I believe).

I've been able to find an experience from 1995 though other than hot nothing new (or old).

Odd as it seems, but there is a project underway to build Truong Xûan Hot Spring Heath-Spa Resort which the name would imply would be at exactly the same place. The first reference I found dates to 2003, but clearly nothing has come about. Even though a real estate agent is trying to sell something under this name in 2004. More importantly Wellness Vietnam

('Consulting is dedicated to the design and implementation of client-centric, cost-effective spa and wellness solutions')

now lists the project as going to be completed this summer as well as a project nearby in Ba Ho (which when visited was well under way). The above link to Wellness Vietnam though is to a cached page, it's up to date page has no reference to either projects ....

'Hot springs, near Nha Trang. Khiet showed us some very natural hot springs tucked in the foothills on the way to Nha Trang. It was beautiful to see springs kept so naturally'.

Funny that, natural cemented wall. Photo by lafeola

Elsewhere

Khanh Hoa province through Thap Ba hot spring Center has become a major destination for hot spring lovers. That said until recently Soaking in Southeast Asia had listed a number of other soaks, such as the already blogged Tubong and this entrance's Duc My. We will have to contend that until further proof Ong Me is another hot spring in this province.

But there are possibly more hot springs. Danh Thanh is often used in texts on Vietnam's potential for geothermal electricity as well as in mineral water sales.

Then there is this link that names Danh Thanh as well as another hot spring:

'By 2003, Khanh Hoa has registered 10 hot springs with average reserve of more than four litres per spring every second. The province’s famous hot springs are Danh Thanh and Suoi Dau'.

Ten? Suoi Dau?
Suoi Dau is more better known in the province for being an industrial zone as well as the place where a former colonial Alexander died (source):

'The grave of Doctor Alexandre Yersin is located on top of a nameless hill at the Suoi Dau area in Dien Khanh district'.

My hunch is that they only mean spring rather than hot. But then 10 springs are not much ...

Getting there: From Nha Trang head north to the town of Ninh Hoa and take the main road out to Buon Ma Thuot, After passing Duc My village (about 5 km) it’s about another 11km on the left side of the road.

Soaking experience: Too hot.

Overall impression: Due to the lack of soaking possibilities, not really worth a visit unless passing through.

Mud on our mind

2011-03-28T07:54:00.019+07:00

Tiermas, Navarra, Spain: natural geothermal spring and mud bath: better than a soak? By Patrick_22_b:

'Tiermas Stuwmeer met zwavelbronnen bij ruïnes van oud dorpje'

Popular

Hot on the heels of Soaking in Southeast Asia's blog on Thap Ba hot spring (Nha Trang, Vietnam) I got to wondering what would the basis of this hot spring's success. Some suggestions in that blog were:

ease of access,
high degree of visits by tourists and
many potential domestic visitors.

But these do not seem to be the key.

Elsewhere Soaking in Southeast Asia read that the rate of foreign visitors versus nationals was like 40:60, a fact which in itself is not so surprising. However on most visits to hot springs in Southeast Asia, I was the only foreigner. So why so many foreigners?

The only reason why, could be due to the difference in tourists nationalities (many Russians) and/or the potential to take a mud bath.
Yes, mud. Essential to the Thap Ba experience is a mud bath. While in Nha Trang, tourists will go out of their way to take a mud bath, a highlight of their holidays.

Now, as slopping around in slurry is such a draw, why aren't mud baths more commonplace?

Research
Soaking in Southeast Asia put this thought into some research:

Mud is healthy

Yes, besides vitamins and organics, mud is essentially a lot of minerals packed together. And we know that these minerals are an essential part of hot spring soaking. And bathing in hot mineral water can assist disease treatment, as well as have marked health benefits when used long term.

World's most used online reference manual, Wikipedia, hardly expands on this theme which seems a bit strange. 'Therapeutic' is one suggestion, another points to 'relieving of arthritis'. Others inputs include 'healing properties' and 'skin revitalization'.

A better source of reference is the medindia.net entry on mud baths (under the alternative medicine chapter):

'Mud bath is a detox therapy, which has become extremely popular around the globe. Until rather recently, many European practitioners promoted mud baths as a treatment for arthritis. This back to the basics, relatively simplest of alternative therapies, tends to help relax muscles, soothe aches, improve blood circulation and smoothen the skin. With today's emerging trends mud baths are often recommended to help reduce stress and leave us feel rejuvenated at the end of the session.
...
Taking a hot bath or sauna promotes sweating that flushes the toxins away from the body. Mud baths draw out the toxins and impurities from the body, exfoliating and nourishing the skin'.

Despite this

'Deep relaxation is the primary and most-proven reason to take a hot mineral mud bath. The warm, soft mixture cocoons and buoys up the body and sucks the stress out. There’s no pressure anywhere on the body. The heat of the mud (usually over 100 degrees Fahrenheit) makes you perspire and cleans the pores. The treatment consists of 10-15 minutes of immersion, which improves the complexion, removes toxins, and soothes and relieves joint and muscle pain' (source).

Ooh, that sounds great.

'Analysis of Mud'

From Hell's gate, Wai-ora, Rotorua, New Zealand. Source

Another good source of info is the about.com page on (mud) spa's in Calistoga, California, U.S.A.. Historically it mentions that Cleopatra was one of the first users of (in her case) Dead Sea mud which appears to be the most widely used mud in mud treatments in the global spa industry.
The combination hot springs and volcanic ash seem to be the key. So no wonder that other popular muds are from New Zealand, Ischia and Hungary. Other well known muds (not necessarily of volcanic origin) seeing global use are Multani Mitti (India), Moor Mud (Central Europe; high organic content) and Great Salt Lake mud.

Another trend setter was Queen Sheba (source). Soaking in Southeast Asia notes that links seem to favour queens ... No, not. When retreating from Bulgaria, Hitler has been said to have asked for three train wagons full of local mud (source)!

Bhutan believes that the use of mud can heal war wounds (source) though it doesn't mention whether this concerned physical or psychological wounds ...

Even throughout the animal kingdom, mud baths are known for their propensity to cool down, provide positive skin healing and a source of additional minerals.

Some notes:
- A mud wrap distinguishes from a mud bath as it is essentially a layer of mud brought on the skin, left to dry and then rinsed off, in general less relaxing.
- Clay vs mud. Medindia:

'Clay like mud comes from the earth. However, due to its composition nature it has a tendency to soak up or dry, hence it is used in cosmetic products as a drying agent. It is a component found in many cosmetic products like foundation and powders. Clay has the ability to remove matter suspended in liquid, as its natural property is oil balancing. Thus, clay helps to assist the body in the systemic removal of many industrial chemicals that the body would otherwise have difficulty eliminating'.

But a clay bath?
- Sand baths are quite different, though very easy to produce on a beach. Beppu, Japan has geothermal warmed sand baths.
- Clothing? Any family laundry person would effortlessly point out that mud and clothes are not an ideal combination. Clothing seems to get in the way. For instance, a month after I visited Thap Ba there was still dirt stuck on me after a swim. However other than in festivals (see chapter below on anti-society) clothing seems to be an important part of the more social forms of mud bathing. Naturally further off the paved road, less so. But with a few exceptions (see below: Krinides, Hoyo) the major mud baths of the world are not clothing optional.
No clothing in mud is offensive? In NZ they think not ...
- Mud-wrestling. looks like fun, but why are only women involved? Soaking in Southeast Asia thinks it's not for vanity sakes ...

But what should be stressed is the fun part, relax part and possible social part (We tend to forget socializing in our modern day spa's, it's all me, me, me).

Mud is anti-society

Is it? Society seems to prefer clean and proper. Even as kids we know the best way to upset parents is to get dirty. So why not muddy?

Extending this theory, it's easy to see why (pop)festivals go out of their way to feature mud. Even the first festival of festivals (Woodstock) saw revelers seek to unconsciously shock older generations with a mud bath.
Besides underlining their supposed street credibility, at the end of the day a mud bath is just plain fun. Do note that clothing was / is optional and often dispensed of, in favour of practicality while simultaneously increasing the 'shock' value (at least initially, now not so much more in current days ...).

Just a few of the global examples are Woodstock '94 (U.S.A.), Paleo-Nyon (France, the only festival which has institutionalized the mud bath), ConFest (Australia), Big Green Gathering (Australia), Glastonbury (U.K.), Future Music (Australia), Burning Man, (U.S.A.), Down to Earth, (Australia), Rainforest Festival (Malaysia), Confest (Australia), Boryeong (Korea), Bloco de Lama (Brazil) and Sziget (Hungary). Just to name a few.

The Burning Man festival plays out on a dry lake bed deep in Nevada, U.S.A.. Despite the hot spring (muds) of Trego nearby, revelers take the opportunity to enjoy a mud bath during the festival itself. Photo by Gorightly:

'mud_people The attack of the naked mud people, Burning Man, 1997 or 98'.

Note:

Not under anti-society but with the summing up of festivals, in India the festival of Babba Jitto (Jhiri, Jammu) pays tribute to the liberator of the farming community. Besides a holy bath devotees also cover themselves with 'holy' mud (source).

Mud is different

Seems logical.

Mud is cheap.

Mud is everywhere, so a mud bath can be had virtually everywhere as long as it doesn't freeze. That said, there is a tendency for mud baths to take place in the summer or in warmer climes.
In reality there are not many naturally occurring hot mud baths. Nearly everywhere where there is hot mud, there's hot water and thus the latter is more desirable for consummation ...

That's not to say that taking a mud bath in a spa is cheap. Glen Ivy in California charges $85 while in the same state in Calistoga spa's charge about $65. Prices in Europe are no less cheaper ...

Muck around the world
Following is just a short overview of natural mud baths (excl. those spontaneous ones occurring after a rain shower) as well as whether or not these are thermal mud baths (gt: geothermal). Oddly many mud baths are also located on or near a beach.

A Calistoga mud bath. By Simon Edward

America's

U.S.A.: Trego (gt); Calistoga (see above); Hawaii (gt); Ojo Caliente (gt?); Santa Fe (gt); Soap Lake;
Mexico: Rio Lagartos; Huatulco; Los Azufres (gt);
Belize: Maruba;
Honduras:Cayos Cochinos, (gt?);
El Salvador: Juayua (gt);
Costa Rica: Miravalles (gt); Tenorio (gt); San Juanillo;
St Lucia (gt);
St Martin: Tintamarre, see also Nat. Geo. blog;
Colombia: Volcan del Totumo (gt), see this great write up by Nat. Geo.; Arbolete;
Ecuador: Machalilla (gt); Telesforo Villacres (gt); San Vincente (gt);
Peru: Chilca (gt); Zorritos (gt); Mancora (gt) Chivay (gt);
Venezuela: Las Trincheras (gt); Isla Cubagua;
Brazil: Paraty; Morro de Sao Paulo;
Argentina: Termas de Cacheuta (gt); Copahue (gt).

'Volcan del Totumo'.

A real mud volcano with a mud bath inside. Colombia. By davidcovo

Europe

Iceland: Blue Lagoon (gt); Hveragerði (gt);
Belgium: Spa;
Czech Republic: Cesky Krumlov; Mariánské Lázně; Františkovy Lázně; Kostelec;
Hungary: Postyen (gt);
Croatia: Pirovac; Čižići (Meline);
Romania: Bazna; Eforie; Slanic-Prahova; Ocna Sibiulu;
Serbia: Ovcanska;
Bulgaria: Sarafovo; Banya (gt);
Greece: Santorini (gt); Arilas, Corfu; Krinides;
Italy: Ischia (gt), Emilia Romagna Bagno di Romagna, Tivoli and Viterbo (source's); San Filippo; Laghetto di Fanghi Vulcano, (gt); Pantelleria's Bath of Venus (gt);
Spain: Espalmador (Formentera); La Manga del Mar Menor: Lo Pagan; Tarifa; Bingaus and Cala Pinar (Menorca);
Estonia: Parnu;
Latvia: Baldone;
Russia: Crimea - Saki; Sochi - Tizdar; north - Tinaki; Taman peninsular (gt);
Ukraine: Berdyansk; Chokrok;
Turkey: Dalyan (possibly gt); Gölemezli (gt); Gökçeada (with sea salt).

Vulcano island mud bath, Italy. By daturi

Africa

Mozambique: Pemba;
South Africa: Gingindlovu;
Cape Verde: Pedra de Lume;
Kenya: Sleepy Creek.

Oceania

New Zealand: Rotorua (gt); Waiariki (gt);
Australia: Eulo;
Fiji: Sabeto (gt).

Hell's Gate, Rotorua, New Zealand

Asia

Japan: Hoyo (gt); Nabeyama (gt); Niseko (gt);
China: Tanggangzi (gt); Yangshuo (in cave); Tianjin;
Taiwan: Kuanzuling;
Mongolia: Khujirt;
Russia: Kamchatka: Talovski and Paratunka (gt); Baikal: Zhemchug (gt); Arshan; Tus Salt Lake;
India: Goa.

Hoyoland mud onsen, Beppu, Japan; blogged by lorraineorsunshine

Muddying in Southeast Asia

So if worldwide available, they most certainly exist in Southeast Asia? Yes, they do.

Though hot springs have a certain following / touristic value, mud baths are yet to catch up in possibilities despite all what can be said in their favour.

As said Thap Ba (in Vietnam) is by far the most popular in Southeast Asia (even though the mud is resourced from elsewhere, the suggestion that there is both a hot spring and hot mud endures) and others spas and hot springs in the same country are catching up, for instance Binh Chau.

Outside of Vietnam there is the Phu Klon of Mae Hon Song province, Thailand which combines hot water and naturally occurring mud. Marketing wise they are mainly focused on the 'spa' crowd (as opposed to those who want to experience / have fun). At the lower end is the ad-hoc mud bath near one of Pai's hot springs.

The same focus on higher end tourists applies to the mud baths of Pinatubo, Philippines.

Then there are the mud 'volcanoes' on Malaysia's Pulau Tiga, an off-shore island off the state of Sabah; the islands high point for tourists is the experience of a mud bath.

Another hot item on the tourism trail. Malaysia's Tiga island mud volcanoes. By cephiroth.chin:

'Pulau_Tiga_27
Here you are: Transformed into Mud Man! Actually its adviseble not to jump inside the mud area, to avoid mud go into your eyes & mouth~~~'

More off the track is Bali's Singsing waterfall which should include a mud bath. Not when I was there.

More popular is the mud bath of Vang Viang (Lao) which probably is just a wallow of mud watered from the nearby Nam Song river; with the large amount of near drunk visitors and the lack of drainage there's probably a health issue here, but nevertheless popular. It's more for the rite of passage than any health aspect.

Are there any more mud baths in Southeast Asia?

Muddying the business
Sensing both the increasing popularity and the untapped resources of mud bathing in Southeast Asia, one would expect this to be a growing trend both to expand the offers as well as appealing to a younger generation.
Soaking in hot springs in Southeast Asia as well as worldwide is mostly associated with the elderly and as this blog entry witnesses, the young are often as eager, if not more so, to indulge a soak if dirty (and weird) business is included.

One aspect that might deter the popularization of mud baths, is that muddy baths require possibly even higher standards of hygiene, a fact which could give the whole sector (especially here in Southeast Asia) an impulse to improve standards (but a not much loved move away from naturally, the way Soaking in Southeast Asia approves of ...).

Certainly in Vietnam, I have seen some companies willing to get in on the business. Especially around Nha Trang, despite the proximity of Thap Ba, many high-end hotels are offering their 'own' mud treatments. Naturally they will be followers and though to a certain limit stand to profit from Thap Ba's popularity. On the other hand they'll miss most of the free publicity, why on earth would visitors sign up for an expensive clinically mud treatment when the real thing is just around the corner? Snobbery?

But think about it, Vietnam for instance has quite a few hot springs but usually they are at least 2-3 hours away from each other, so most probably no competition from each other. Another factor favouring the development is mud's cheapness.

Even more exciting is the recent event of new 'mud volcanoes' coming to life. Though Azerbaijan is struggling with it's mud volcano, in Ninh Thuan, Vietnam new mud volcanoes have occurred. Who know's, this might be a destination of the future. Do note that a mud volcano does not always offer an opportunity for a mud bath ...

That's not saying that all mud is good. Probably the worst example of mud gone bad is here in Southeast Asia where in Indonesia, the Lapindo mud lake stands for poor planning, poor regulation and implicit government involvement in avoiding offering adequate compensation to those affected.

Epilogue
So quite an exciting business, might just warrant a blog of it's own ...

On a totally different aspect, I came across an article in the Sueddeutscher.de about Munchen's last mud bath. In the article it mentions how in 2009 the last public multiperson mud bath of 2 by 4 m of Munchen was to close.
Decreasing numbers of visitors:

'"Wellness muss eher sauber und steril aussehen" - und nicht braun und schlammig'.

Which translates as wellness should be clean and sterile - not brown and muddy. Really. Soaking in Southeast Asia begs to differ.
And increasing costs: Two truckloads of mud were required each week costing 400 Euro each. Not so dirt cheap!

So is the exception to the rule?

Water and dirt

2011-03-21T08:26:00.003+07:00

Populous
Thap Ba hot spring rates as one of Southeast Asia’s most popular hot springs. In Oct '09, Soaking in Southeast Asia compiled a Top 10 of most popular soaking sites based on references from internet sites such as tripadvisor, flickr, google and yahoo. The outcome saw Thap Ba ranked seventh.

So what factors would help in making a hot spring site popular?
For one many people have to visit it, so close to major concentrations of persons.

Yes, Thap Ba is close to a large city, but so are Sembawang (Singapore) and Bentong (Kuala Lumpur). But not highly ranked.

Touristy area then.

Yes, Thap Ba is just outside Nha Trang, the number 4 destination in Vietnam. But other hot springs are also near popular tourist sites such as Hin Dad (Kanchanaburi), Pha Soet (Chiang Rai) and Klong Thom (Krabi). But not Top 10 material.

So it must be Thap Ba itself.

Many tourists recommend (see blog sites / tripadvisor) a visit to Thap Ba hot spring and though on occasion these authors will go out of their way to write down their negatives, it must be due to the shared positive experience that they feel compelled to share this on internet. Thus contributing to Thap Ba receiving even more fame, more visitors.

Also their feedback helps out with sites such as LP (mysteriously LP ranks Thap Ba as only the no. 5 thing 'to do in Nha Trang'), whereas tripadvisor ranks it as no. 1 of things to do in Nha Trang. This despite there being local competition from for instance a huge man made resort, Vinpearl Land, which includes the world’s longest over-the-sea cable car and the biggest wave pool in Southeast Asia (even though being next to the beach).

Independently, in2vietnam.com alludes that Thap Ba is Vietnam's 'most famous' hot spring.

Access
Located on the outskirts of Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa province, the hot spring of Thap Ba is easily accessible. After crossing the Cai river and 100m after passing Po Nagar Thap Ba tower one needs to take the road right.

Po Nagar is a Cham-culture ruin whose origin predates even Angkor; suggestions date it's origins back to the 7th century. A sight in itself, it’s a nice place to look around, view over the Cai river, but possibly not much has been left over of the original building.

A relief on Po Nagar. Photo by EDME MICHEL

Anyway, the small street off the major northern artery leading out of Nha Trang winds it’s way over a few hillocks through what could be described as Vietnam’s suburbia: freshly built narrow 2/3 story buildings interspersed with vacant lots. At the end of the road (2 km), beyond a street full of shops selling tourist knick-knacks, lies the entry to Thap Ba Hot Spring Center.

Late afternoon, there are still crowds willing to enter. The ticket office is the place where one needs to decide what treat(ment) one requires, even though it’s not so clear what the to be paid fee include.

Ummmm

Murky
Ten $US lighter, I can enter the site, on my way to a mud bath (single), followed by a hot bath. However before that fun can start I need a drink and manage to sneak off to the restaurant, much to the annoyment of the counter ladies. Drinks are for afterwards (?). They really are organized here.

After lessening my thirst I return to the counter where (after showing my ticket) I’m given a towel and told to change, ‘men at back’. Behind the lockers are about 10 'tents' where the men are supposed to change.

'Asian Adventure 2008 152
Mud baths, Nha Trang, Vietnam'

Mud baths on terraces to the rear, blue and whiter changing tents for men.
From flickr, by pinkpapper8

Thereafter I am sent up the hill, past big empty basins. I then hand my ticket to an attendee and are told to take a shower. After obliging, I am shown the first wooden tub which is filled with fluid warm mud in 10 seconds. Take a seat.

Well one can actually lie down: the tubs big enough for two. I have to admit, the mud bath is very appealing: it's warm and silky. I stayed in the mud for about as long as allowed; eventually the attendee tires and sends me on my way.

The tubs are shaded and are located above each other on terraces going up the eucalyptus clad hill. Though intended with view, the view itself is not really enchanting. The hill though is alive with soothing local music, unless of course you get all worked up, having to involuntarily listen to Vietnamese muzak.

'Mud bath, Nha Trang
Bathing in mud at a natural hot spring in Nha Trang, Vietnam. The minerals are supposed to be really good for you, and despite being a bit sceptical about the actual health benefits, we went anyway because, let's face it, playing in mud is just fun!'

Photo by birdandfrog

I also have first class seating overlooking the showers and can observe the trials and tribulations of rinsing after a mud bath. Especially women with full bathing suits are struggling.
Once it’s my turn to shower I discover why: even after a 10 minute shower, a hot bath soak, swimming in the mineral water pool, sitting underneath a waterfall shower; still then my speedo’s contain a handful of sand/grit.

And clear
Once one has believed to have rid oneself of most of the mud, it’s back down the hill, where another attendant tells you to go through the hydrotherapy walls. These walls are five meter in length, and water is spouted out from the wall with high pressure, as a way of massage. One can walk to and fro but this concept seems to have forgotten that many visitors who partake are foreigners, whose body mass is above belly-button height.

By poell

Directly behind the hydrotherapy walls are about 20 cement basins (some bigger than others, but even the smallest accommodates two persons easily; these are heart shaped …) which are filled up individually for you. Half an hour max here again and then the surplus paid part of the ticket comes to an end.

Beyond all this are two large hot water pools (not too hot), one free form deep pool, another less deep and circular. Using these pools can be done at leisure and independent of the mud part. And those who have paid up for mud treatments receive loungers to while away and recuperate ...

The larger pool

Secrets no more
So have I found the secret to Thap Ba’s popularity?

Possibly not, but judging from the great numbers of visitors, many who make the impression of being regulars, the facilities would be high on the 'to do' list of many Nha Trang visitors.

The experience? Possibly a bit too routine for everybody, the treatments on offer though, are way below western prices and are enjoyable in themselves without the need for proof of additional health effects. It seems that a visit here has become a Nha Trang visit-must. Even though publications such as LP [1] hardly provide any form of lip service (is that possible with books?). It does mention that Thap Ba

‘is one of the most fun experiences on offer here [Nha Trang]’.

Sims [2] notes

‘It’s a must for Vietnamese tourists who swear by the healing power of the springs, though most tourists just get a kick out of taking a communal bath in a mud broth for the first time in their lives’.

Other positives I can take away from here are the ease of access and mostly clean facilities. Management of the therapeutic side are good, though the restaurants seem a bit dilapidated with at least the pizzeria having exceptional poor service.

Thap Ba management are well content with themselves: outside the entrance is a small building containing all the prizes/accolades the facilities have won!

However feeling intrigued by the many positive postings on (mud baths of) Thap Ba, I am planning on a future posting on exactly that, mud baths. In my research I found that much of the feedback concerning mud baths worldwide actually concerns Thap Ba. A google blog search of for instance "mud bath"+ "hot spring" reveals that nearly 1 in 5 links actually concern Nha Trang!

It also transpired that much of the global mud baths are spa treatments for mostly singular or duo consumption. Expensive, these mostly are directed at older audiences. Whereas the cheaper Thap Ba version for groups find many much younger (and possibly internet savvy) takers. Voila, the secret!
(I also assume that as one of the first hot spring centers in Southeast Asia to offer a mud bath, that they also receive much 'free' publicity).

The best?
So could it improve? I think so. It seems sometimes a bit like an assembly line business with little or no personal touch. Having better showers or allowing nudity would also help, especially if promoting the wholesomeness of mud and water while simultaneously requiring bathing costumes (which in itself is very un-Southeastasian like). kyralove adds:

'Next is mud-bath! Hippy me is expecting a private bath, or at least a woman's section and a men's section, but all the baths are next to each other. Not that I care about being naked in front of others, but if I get so many stares with my clothes on, then no way does putting on a show for the local boys sound fun. Since it is late there is only one other couple in another tub... But ours is still not private at all. WTF? I have on a white bathing suit, no way am I getting it muddy! Who takes mud baths in their clothes? It's just wrong!
Somehow I gracelessly maneuver out of my bathing suit under my skimpy towel and get into the warm mud. Ahhh... warm mineral mud under mountains and stars. Uh, oh, I float in this mud. It's harder than it sounds to keep my body completely submerged. It seems like as soon as I get comfortable, the mud starts disappearing. Oh no! They are draining the tub! I somehow manage to get my bathing suit back on, just in the nick of time (my towel has mysteriously vanished). So much for keeping my white bathing suit white....'

The lengths one goes to keep the whites white ...

Going more upscale does enable more naturalness. Apparently privacy is for sale at Thap Ba. Under the name of V.I.P. Spa ('Secluded and deluxe recreation') one can have a private pool higher up the mountain, included with a villa. The price is just under US$ 100 p.p., prices dropping with more persons. This website adds

... service as soaking in mineral mud, massage with natural medicinal herbs, sauna – steam bath, private swimming pool and complete relaxation in a private room'.

The exclusivity is used as a major selling point, it’s seldom in the hot spring company's p.r. that one sees a pool full of mud bathers, though many pictures of a naked back of a female soaker (see this website for instance).

Sign outside the entrance. See top part of billboard for V.I.P. p.r. ....

And that while most guide books indicate that nakedness in Vietnam is strongly disapproved of. For instance LP[1]

‘totally inappropriate, even on beaches’.

Despite all the paintings and arts you'll experience when visiting Vietnam celebrating exactly that and many legends dedicated to bathing fairies (see for instance the legend of Hon Chong promotory, just outside of Nha Trang).

Where were we? Uh, yes. A step lower in price than Thap Ba's V.I.P. spa is the Tien Sa mineral water pool ('Enjoy your love from nature'), the privilege of one's own hot tub is less than US$ 50 p.p., again prices dropping to US$ 250 for 6 persons. From the photo's it seems very private between forest with it's own loungers next to the tub, not at all bad ...

Then there is also the possibility of a steambath and massage (US$ 11 p.p.).

So all in all, not too much to improve on ....

More info
Thap Ba's p.r. also goes out of it's way to promote soaking and especially the source of it's waters. They are slightly salty which is

‘rich in Sodium Silicate Chloride’

and finds it’s source from 100m deep underground. Furthermore

‘The mineral water penetrates the skin, depositing NaCL and some other elements under the skin, cleansing and rejuvenating it as well, increasing the body immune system and capability of resisting inflammation’.

On mud:

‘Therapeutic mud bath and salty mineral water can help cure chronic rheumatism, gynecologic inflammation, bone tuberculosis.
…
The mineral mud in Thap Ba Hot Spring Center is an inorganic mud especially rich in Sodium Silicate Carbonate as well as some other micro-elements. These elements stimulate the nerves under the shin, creating reactions in the whole body through the cerebral center and the cortex. The stickiniess of the mineral cleanses the skin, leaving it finer and smoothier’.

It does not mention that the mud comes from 60 km away, the source though highlighting the (possible) significance of 'health tourism' in general for Vietnam by focusing on Thap Ba:

'Despite natural medicinal tourism being new to the country, Thap Ba received some 400,000 visitors last year, about 5 percent more than in 2007'.

Then there is this document which adds more:

'mineral water is pumped from a depth of 100 m directly from Vinh Phuong mineral mine 4 km from the centre. It is completely hygienic. Mud extracted from (Ninh Loc) Ninh Hoa experiences centrifuge in order to move away sedimentary mixtures such as sand, stones, gravel, etc for the softest mud. It is then heated for bath'.

So what is playing out is not so natural after all.

It also adds:

'The centre though a non-State enterprise and operating in a new field has soon perfected itself and become a springboard for the advance of the Khanh Hoa economy in general and tourism in particular. Its advent positively changes the living condition of residential areas with the most exceptional difficulties in socio-economy of its kind in Nha Trang, increases local budget collection and provides jobs to over 100 local labourers'.

The interesting article concludes with a research overview of the potentials of the local hot water.

Anyway as a parting gift, let me assure you that Nha Trang is a nice place, it has a beautiful and bustling shoreline and many islands to explore, a great destination for a holiday. Inland are also some great places to discover such as the waterfalls of Ba Ho and Suoi Tien stream.

Getting there: Head north out of Nha Trang taking the inner bridges over the Cai river. After 100m past the Po Nagar ruins take a left and continue (2km) to the end.

Soaking experience: A grand experience, must rank as one of the best I have visited. (Other greats are Tatopani (Nepal), Hamner and Turangi (New Zealand).

Overall impression: Full marks, even though experienced with nature out of bounds.

Notes:
[1] Ray, N., Y.-M. Balasingamchow, I. Stewart (2010) Vietnam. 10th Edition. Lonely Planet, Footscray, Australia
[2] Sims, A. (2010) Nha Trang Guide Book 2011-2012 Edition EBT Media, Nha Trang, Vietnam.

Non-use

2011-03-05T16:12:00.006+07:00

Guiding help
Insightguides probably has one of the better maps on Vietnam (including Lao and Cambodia), at least in my opinion. The province of Khanh Hoa, one of the lower provinces of Vietnam’s central coast, contains references to no less than 3 hot springs. The northern most hot spring of the province is that of “Tu Bong”.

Other references to this hot spring on the internet are scarce to say the least. However during the first week of March, I was in the circumstances to be able look into it’s existence first hand.

It’s clearly described as being short of Dai Lanh pass (see source: “There’s a hot stream called Tu Bong, 9 kilometers to the south of the Pass”) which forms the border between Khanh Hoa and the northerner province of Phu Yen through which Vietnam’s highway 1 has to go through. Somewhere near the town of Hai Trieu. With just this info, my taxi driver (with whom I could only communicate with grunts and hand signals) was sent up and down the highway, trying to gain info from the frequent petrol stations.

Cross the track
Eventually, after 70 plus km (possibly 74 km?) from Khanh Hoa’s capital of Nha Trang, we were close, but we needed to walk the remainder towards the spring. A very non-descript village was where we were.

We followed a sand track 100 m downhill, crossed the railway line, 10 m left, 10 m down, 30 m left. Our track joined another track presumably also from the main road. Along the track were a few low houses with incessant dogs barking as we continued through what was left of the village. At the last house, my taxi driver ascertained we were still on course and we continued the stroll through barren rice fields and along a plot used as burial ground.

Out in the near treeless open we could see towards the sea and in the distance were the dunes that formed the connection between the continent and the Hon Gom Peninsula, Vietnam’s eastern most point. Just beyond the burial site we saw a lone waterpump gushing water which produced some amounts of steam. Evidently this was the spring.

The pump like structure was based on a cement platform, 5 m in diameter, which protruded from the remaining swamp by like 60 cm. The large discharge flowed over the cement and found a way to the swamp around it.

Chooks
It was too hot to touch. The waterpump was also fed by a metal pipe which came from where we had come from. Later I learnt that this pipe was the pipe which brought the hot water here. It was explained from 8 m away but I had noticed on the way down that there was a small stream, 200 m away from the tap, near the houses of water which might have been from a hot water source.

On return I established that yes it was warmer and it tasted soda like, similar to what was coming from the tap. On the tap itself was some coating which my driver said was salt, from the sea, but tasting it, it was soda.

So a find? Yes there is a hot spring in Tu Bong, but where does it actually come from? A mystery.

Clearly the locals attributed no significance to this source of hot mineral water. I was told it’s only use was for de-feathering fowl after slaughter, which by the amounts of feathers lying around the site must be true. Odd that that would be the only the use for such a unique product.

Elsewhere some of the scarce references note that Tu Bong would make a great site for geothermal power generation and why not if it's not being utilized otherwise?

Evidence
No piccies though. Ever since I bought Olympus µ-550WP camera I’ve been plagued by my folie decision to be blinded by the fact that this camera can shoot underwater. But it sucks, the memory card is more for phones, meaning you need to keep a card adapter (or cable) with you if you want to upload to computer. It has a specific battery which can only be loaded with a battery charger larger than the camera itself (excl. the cable and plug; plug is nearly bigger than camera). It came with a handy camera bag which if not closed properly will mean that camera will disappear and is certainly not a good place to store extra memory card / battery. Anyway setting the thing is near impossible eventually leading to me (on this occasion) losing pictures of three hot spring visits. Thanks Olympus for such a fine product.

Anyway not much is lost with Tu Bong.

Getting there: approximately 14 km north of the railway crossing in Van Gia, the district headquarters.

Soaking experience: none.

Overall impression: yikes.

Life's good? Or not?

2011-02-01T14:11:00.005+07:00

If only life could be so good: Beer Lao & Hot Spring

Developing

The best known hot spring of Xieng Khouang province, Lao, is that of Baw Njai (Bo Nyai) which translates as big hot spring. It's also known for it's more advanced stage of development: no more just a spring, it is a real resort, with separate bathing facilities.

LP (Things to do in Xieng Khuang) describes it as follows:

'A hot mineral spring can be visited near Muang Kham. Baw Nyai is large and lies 18km east of Muang Kham, 51km from Phonsavan. The spring source is in a heavily wooded area where several bamboo pipes have been rigged so that you can bathe nearby, although the experience is a little disappointing owing to the muddy texture of the water'.

The LP Laos guidebook adds that it was originally built by Kaysone's wife (Kaysone was a leader of the Lao revolution) as a way of treating and entertaining foreign politicians.

My guiding info comes from A Guide to Xieng Khouang Mountain Province in Northern Laos [1] which I also used on my other Lao hot spring visit (to Baw Noi), another 15+ kms away in the direction of Muang Kham.

The spring(s)
Having visited Baw Noi previously and now expecting a major improvement in bathing facilities we were off on our way. The first advantage over the smaller spring was the entry fee (5,000 kip; 0,60 $US): the entry fee collector was on a break, possibly long term. Though the entry fees seem negligible, our driver believes we are having a really good lucky day, all smiles.

The entrance is about 2 km from road to Nong Het. Passing the entrance, one glides into an expansive compound with about 10 large bungalows. On the side of the road is a path which indicates the direction of the hot spring.

This tree lined dirt track goes through a forested area to a fenced-in pond. The pond is about 20m in circumference and one can walk around. On the far side one can observe the water springing and steam slowly rises above the pond.

Mukarin has a photo when there was proof of more forest in the immediate vicinity. A sign of the times?

From this pond, one can also walk to a smaller pond. This track is less wide and ends in a marsh-like pond (see photo below) which contains hot water, but not really hot.

Experience
We return back to the resort proper and having decided earlier that we were in need of a soak, head for the restaurant which doubles up as ticket sales point for soakers. Behind this restaurant are a number of small, stinky, damp and dark cubicles with small tubs. Though the soak would cost just 5,000 kip, for the sack of sanity we skip this part.

It always surprises me how such 'developed' sites have little or no idea what a soaker would like. Me quick thinking: take away most of the walls (so one has a nice view of the surrounding) forest, expand the tubs, add a shower and a resting/relaxing corner and you really have something tourists will go out of their way to experience. Now Baw Njai only produces disappointed potential soakers.

Convincing?

I'm not the only one disliking the soaking facilities. ordinary lishtar :

'I’m abysmally disappointed by the hot springs I was sure I was going to experience. The hot spring was there – green and pristine, but to try it out, I would have to go into a small room, equipped with a bathtub and toilet where the hot spring water was connected to. That’s it? I couldn’t believe it. I don’t want to try it out!'

ignatris blogs on Baw Nyai:

'a hot spring that looks like a development project gone wrong, even though the water is really hot'.

Some are more fortunate by opting to stay the night in a bungalow. At least here the bathrooms seem do-able, but not necessarily an exciting prospect. Achikochi Takema has an expansive blog entry on Baw Njai as well as on Baw Noi. His Baw Njai experience describes staying overnight and having a private bath. Drawing the bath though takes more than 5 minutes, just for the hot water to arrive. He also speculates that the spring appeared after a bomb fell at this place, thus explaining the existence of the pond. The fence would have been constructed to protect the spring from the free roaming water buffalo. He also pic's the bathing rooms in the guest bungalows, describing them as a more hygienic way of soaking.

The right way
In a way, it's quite disturbing this lack of insight in tourists (perceived) needs. In this one should take the example of New Zealand. Well-known for it's mountains and geothermal activity, not often do these two combine. So in response there are innovative projects which are not / can not using natural springs but copying the soaking experiences.

See for instance Onsen Hot Pools of Queenstown

'TripAdvisor members have voted Onsen Hot Pools the best of 74 Queenstown activities for over two years!',

Omarama Hot Tubs

'You have an amazing place there, absolutely beautiful'

and Glacier Hot Pools (Overall Winner West Coast Southern Alps Tourism Awards 2010).

The above are just proof of how easy it is to attract tourists if one adjusts to their demands. It needn't be so difficult.

On the positive side, some redeveloping of Baw Njai was in the process (bungalows), though I have my doubts whether it will result in better soaking facilities. If only i were manager ...

More
More info (mostly photo's) from the recently discovered Japanese language blog site by yoshidanoharuo. He/she has traveled extensively across the world looking for hot soaks. He/she ranks Baw Noi higher than Baw Nyai, three stars versus two on a scale of just 3.

Getting there: From Phonsavan, Xieng Khouang's provincial capital, head north east to Muang Kham and continue 20 km beyond Muang Kham in the direction of Nong Het. The turn off is well signposted. The resort itself is about 2 km's from the main highway.

Soaking experience: Only for the blind and gullible?

Overall impression: The impression we left with was that of a missed opportunity. How difficult can it be to get it wrong? If I compare with other hot spring haunts in Southeast Asia it's certainly a common theme in the developing of such soaks. Development = not good.

Notes:

[1] Creutz, S., J. Van Den Bergh (2009) A Guide to Xieng Khouang Mountain Province in Northern Laos. Lao National Tourism Authority, Vientiane, Laos.

Updates 15 January 2011

2011-01-18T11:36:00.002+07:00

Coming back from a recent visit to Lao, there are 2 entries coming. Both from Xieng Khouang province: one already published, one to be published later this or next month. This brings the list of countries with hot springs featured up to 7, nearly 40 featured soaks in all.

Despite the difficulties in traveling Lao it must rank high on anyone's 'to do' list. Culture and scenery are beautiful. And if willing to put up some effort, there are also nice hot springs and beautiful waterfalls to be visited (see Waterfalls of Southeast Asia). More entries in the waterfalls blog have taken place on Thailand, Lao and Cambodia.

Publishing new entries on Hot springs of the Himalaya has come to an end, from now on there will be only re-publishing as and when time allows, hopefully keeping the info published up to date.

Press
Other interesting news is being kept to a minimum, despite this being the ultimate season for soaking in Asia.
Sydney Morning Herald has put in a glowing overview of Banjaran Hotspring Resort near Ipoh, Malaysia. "Spectacular" is a quote which seems to justify the reporters free overnight stay; other than that she seems not very impressed.

Thanhniennews has a feature on Binh Chau, a hot spring I visited (and featured) earlier last year. added info is the fact that the springs were

' “discovered” in 1928 by a French doctor named Salle'.

As if not known before ... Overall a very positive article though again not very journalistic.

Further away, Cityweekend's Shanghai edition hopes it can get it's readers naked. At Tangshan hot spring.

'People have been getting naked there for 1,500 years, due to the hot springs and their famously curative waters. It was fenced off as a royal sanitarium for most of that time. These days, though, anyone with a little coin can take the plunge'.

Then it transpires they mean Kayamunis:

'You see, the Kayumanis is all about privacy. The 21 villas—each over 300 q. meters—are all enclosed by high walls. Inside you’ll find a cold plunge pool and what you came for—your own private hot spring nourished by 50 degree Celsius waters containing numerous healing elements. High walls means no roving eyes. Bathrobes are optional in your private estate, even in cold, early spring weather'.

The walls come with a price, upwards of $600 per night! Stay a few nights and you could have spent the same amount on a new bathroom with your own hot spring (?!).

Geothermality
A mainstream article by National Geographic looks at the future of geothermal power generation. Apparently Kenya will be leading the way followed by Indonesia.

Readers'tips
From the UK press, the Guardian comes this list of reader's tips concerning

'spa's and hot springs - the best places to chill out in warm water'.

The winning tip concern's New Zealand's Hot Water Beach and Kerosene Creek, even though they are nearly a day's drive away. From Southeast Asia the only tip concern's Thap Ba (Vietnam) while Asia at large gets tips on a hot spring in Jordan and 2 in Japan. So much for soaking being a popular past time ...

Hot Water Beach: dig in? (visited 2007)

Little

2011-01-03T22:12:00.001+07:00

Lao lounging
North Laos is a great place to find hot springs. It's an intricate mix of various hill tribes with different customs and uses all blended into a lowland Lao culture where simplicity and timeliness are still in vogue. Add to this, historic settling and superb natural landscape.

In general there seem to be only a few hot springs in Laos, but I suspect that many are still waiting to be discovered. General access is still poor, but the surrounding Thai, Vietnamese and Yunnan mountain areas have many hot springs on offer, so why would Laos possess heaps of hot springs?

The mountainous province of Xieng Khouang contains 3 known hot springs, as far as I know. There is the hot spring of Ban Thak, which is still to be developed according to LP and which our guide assured us, was not worth it. the journey Especially in light of the big distance to get there via poor and tired roads. So we'll leave it for a next time.

Besides hot springs, Xieng Khouang is an interesting province to visit. The capital of Phonsavan is a bit windswept, but it sits on a high plain allowing for a nicer and cooler clime than most places in Southeast Asia. There are the mysterious Plain of Jar sites to be visited, many different ethnic tribes, appallingly war-time scars and an outstanding natural surrounding (f.i. the waterfalls of Tad Lang and Tad Ka).

Hot springs of Kham
On the road east of Muang Kham, in the direction of Vietnam, lie 2 quite accessible hot springs. Apparently everybody refers to these as Baw Noi (Bo Noi) and Baw Nyai (Bo Njai).

The hot spring Baw Noi (which translates as little hot spring) is just 3 km east of Muang Kham, a larger village in the north of the province.

My guide to this hot spring is the excellent A Guide to Xieng Khouang Mountain Province in Northern Laos [1] which includes the following:

'A little hot springs is located in Xang village, 3 km east of Muang Kham. It feeds into a stream just a few hundred meters off route 7. Note the limestone jar near the ticket office. In the village tai Dam women sell their weaving textiles; cross the river on a small bamboo bridge to visit the Phuan village and observe the women create the beautiful textiles. There is another hot spring nearby Nathong Village. Pass the village and follow for about 800 meters'.

It can be picked up in the informative provincial tourism office of Phonsavan, though large sections of the text appear on wikipedia and wikitravel.

Baw Noi
So, three kms out of Muang Kham, there is a smaller signboard indicating a turn is required if heading to Baw Noi.
One continues down this road towards the village of Xang. Or Xieng, according to this website. At the end of the road one goes through a gate to a wide enclosure. On the stream side of the enclosure is a wooden building with signboards referring to the spring, while on the right are a number of wooden buildings, the furthest away has a signboard indicating it's a guesthouse. But it could also be a school / office.

Entrance fee for visitors is 5,000 kip, about 0,60 $US. Interestingly the ticket refers the Nam Ounnoi tour, the river behind the enclosure.

Welcome

From the ticket office it is a 100m walk along the river to a wading place across the river. Here is also the location of the hot spring. Located just above the waterline, the spring has a double cement wall defense against the 30m wide fast flowing stream. Contained within these confines is water with a temperature of nearly 60 degrees, way too hot for a soak. It is also only 20 cm shallow.

Cemented. Thnx to 'GRANT ASSISTANCE OF THE MR JOHN 2000 BATH'.

Just beyond the broken outer wall hot and cold water are mixing, but there's neither a good spot for mixing the water to a temperature bearable and use as a shower, nor a space where one can bathe, even if the waters are shallow.

It being late afternoon we hang around for half an hour watching kids splash in the water and villagers returning from work on the land and crossing the river to get to their houses. A beautiful picture and a great way to experience Lao.

View from the spring; returning home.

The smaller little spring
Having read that there's another spring nearby I returned back to the ticket seller and asked. Yes there was, not so far away, she had been there once, but it was no place for visitors to go. Because.

The guesthouse owner came over and more talking ensued with me politely trying to push the issue. The discussion took a turn as we came to discuss about Jars and their existence. Yeah, there was a find site nearby, on the other side of the river and on all fours up the mountain. Two hours walk. I had read that there was a jar close to the ticket office. Same same?
Lots of discussion further, the guesthouse owner takes me to the edge of the enclosure and there's a partially broken Jar. We're getting there.

Eventually it was deduced that the hot spring I was asking about was overgrown, 100m stream upwards of the other spring. If I wanted to see it then the guesthouse owner would assist.
We all trudged off back to the river walked beyond the spring, along a field and then beelined to the bank of the river. The guesthouse owner said it was somewhere close with us trying not to get entangled in the weeds. Eventually he mentioned that he had (re-)found it. After scrambling there there was a small hole between the weeds where hot water (but a lot less hot than the more developed springs) streamed 2m along a small 20cm wide canal to the main stream.

The smaller of the small hot spring. The black hole is 20 cm across.

Bathing and soaking
We returned back to the original spring. In the meantime, the village is coming out to bathe, one women is soaking, fully clothed in the very hot spring. Wow!
Most though are just using the river to bathe in, with little regard to the presumed convention of shame and / or offending others. Wish I could move here.

We return to the ticket office and sit down, initially for a glass of water but soon we are tasting and testing all kinds of local fruits, not all palatable. A very nice place.

Another highlight of the village is it's bamboo bridge, downstream. The annually rebuilt bridge is nothing special, but another great place to watch village life: kids jumping in the river, teenagers fishing. We are really playing the tourist.

Worth it? Or not?
Exploring the internet there is not so much information available, either in blog form or in photo's. That doesn't surprise me, the hot spring ticket seller said they often have only a couple of visitors each week and in the hot season none at all.

One good overview is presented in a Japanese language blog entry. I've applied Google Translate and much of the written content is small talk but the photo's are good. And there's a short video.

Travelfish is downright condescending:

'Baw Nam Horn Noi is small and not worth a visit'.

Wikipedia Phonsavan's entry differs:

'Xang village is located near a small hot spring. An ideal spot for a small break. Across the river Phuan women demonstrate their weaving'.

There is a photo on travel pod, at a time of the year when there is more water in the river.

Finally, there's LP's entry:

'Baw Noi (Little Spring) feeds into a stream just a few hundred meters off Rte 7, a couple of kilometers before Baw Nyai on the way from Muang Kham.You can sit in the stream where the hot spring water mixes with the cool stream water and 'adjust' the temperature by moving from one area to another'.

Getting There. Take the road north out of the provincial capital of Xieng Khouang, Phonsavan, all the way to district town of Muang Kham (55 km). Head out of town towards the Vietnamese border (Nong Hed) and after 3 km there's a clear (though small printed) signboard announcing the hot spring on your right.

Soaking Experience. Very rustic place not designed as a soaking experience. Well-intended but someone needs to put there thinking cap on.

Overall impression. The site is beautifully located, interesting and welcoming. If not for the hot springs the other attractions are more than enough reason to detour here. Just do it.

Author and wife at Baw Noi.

Notes:
[1] Creutz, S., J. Van Den Bergh (2009) A Guide to Xieng Khouang Mountain Province in Northern Laos. Lao National Tourism Authority, Vientiane, Laos.