Tuesday, 11 February 2014

Frozen tears

Nothing else matters #indonesia #instagay #blacklesbians #hotsprings #volcanicsprings #volcano #lesbian #nothingelsematters
Toya Bunkah, Bali, Indonesia, source

Mixed
Last week saw the first in a series of interviews with hot spring enthusiasts, the culmination of quite some research and effort. I intend to publish the next interview in 2 months time, but let's just see what the future will bring.

One aspect brought forward in the interview was the hot spring / wellness use of natural waters. Charles Davidson of Peninsula Hot Springs explained nicely the difference for his company, but my attention was drawn to an article from the New Zealand Herald (Dec. 17), concerning the intentions to build an additional "hot pool" complex in Queenstown on the South Island; roughly $20 million should be involved ...:
'The complex would include about 12 large public hot pools, four smaller private pools, changing facilities, a health spa, reception and retail building, and a cafe/restaurant area. At peak capacity, it could cater for an estimated 300,000 to 350,000 customers a year'.
No mention where the waters come from? Are they natural?

Outside of New Zealand there is little understanding of what makes a hot pool.
With an abundance of hot springs readily available in New Zealand, one would find it strange that tourists flock to a number of businesses offering hot pools (and not natural hot springs). But the problem is that geothermal bathing is more attune to the central part of the North Island, whereas those hot springs of the South Island are mostly very remote and therefore (thankfully) devoid of development. 
But the South Island is a lot cooler (thus the need for warmth?) and attracts a fair share of foreign tourists who need to be able to spend a dollar or two. 
With the idea of replicating natural hot springs in a business concept conveniently located for tourists, some entrepreneurs have been introducing the concept of hot pools. And these seem very much to be taking off.  

The existing hot pools of Queenstown are (if one looks at the amount of instagram photo's, see below) a resounding success.

#Onsenhotpools #Southisland source

Named officially Queenstown onsen hot pools, the use of the private pools are priced at $NZ 80 (65 $US) for 2 adults for one hour. The source of their waters:
'Our pools are filled with a mixture of mountain spring water, rain water, and lake water'.  
Sort of natural.

Other hot pools on the South Island are Omarama hot tubs (private pools, 2 adults, 1,5 hours, $NZ 80) where the water is from
'fresh mountain water'. 
Then there are the Glacier hot springs
'The Glacier Hot Pools are fed by the waters of Kā Roimata o Hinehukatere [Franz Josef Glacier!], the frozen tears of Hinehukatere for her lost love'. 
NZ$25 p.p. for public pools, $NZ 85 for 2 adults 45 minutes in a private pool. The Tekapo springs have no private pools and are priced at NZ$20 p.p., water from
'alpine springs'.
So while certainly a good experience (see reviews all over the net), waters are not always naturally occurring; heat itself does wonders but natural hot springs have more direct benefits.
Another surprise is the cost, which lies way above what one would pay in say Europe for a visit to an upmarket wellness concept, especially when private pools are all that are on offer (hardly available in Europe).

Fishy
Continuing on the trend-setting agenda. The other week while watching tv, I came across a mention of seaweed baths. A bit of internet searching and you'll arrive at this apparent Irish tradition. From the Voya seaweed internet site:
'The therapeutic properties of wild seaweed have long been known along the Irish coast. At the beginning of the 20th century there were an estimated 300 seaweed bath houses in Ireland and nine in the small town of Strandhill alone.
Here was the challenge, to revive the Irish tradition of Seaweed Baths in his home town of Strandhill – a challenge which was achieved by Neil and his Family in 1996. The VOYA Seaweed Baths in now one of only a few in the country.
Since reopening, the VOYA Seaweed baths in Strandhill have been enticing customers from all over the world. Attracting 40,000 visitors every year to the beautiful surroundings of Strandhill, they have become one of Sligo's most popular landmarks'.
Treatment consists mostly of a steambath followed by taking a hot bath with seaweed in it. Simple. 

Hope
Think Geoenergy tends to think big business. So it's surprising they notice a news article, originally from NHK (Jan. 24) concerning a small scale geothermal plant in Fukushima, Japan:
'The project plans to utilize water and steam from hot springs to generate power. The water – so the expectation – will be sufficiently hot to be reused for the hot spring bath operations and therefore address the fear of many that geothermal power projects could dry up hot springs.
The managers hope to generate about 2.8 million kWh of electricity, sufficient power to supply around 500 households. They hope to generate about $980,000 per year in electricity sales starting in July 2015.
...
There is the general hope that projects like this will bring visitors back to the region, showing that hot springs can generate clean power and help revive the community.  Overall, the project has attracted some great interest'.
In the meantime, construction has started on a mid-scale thermal power project which would be the first such a large facility in 15 years. Mainichi (Feb. 5) notes further more:
'The development of geothermal power generation often comes in conflict with the interests of local residents, who are worried about a possible reduction in the amount of hot spring water as a result of such construction. Chuo Electric Power Co. overcame such a hurdle by building a geothermal plant not as large as ones developed by major power companies and by sharing profits with Waita-kai [local company owned and operated by residents]'. 
It seems quite straight forward, to consult and get locals to cooperate in whatever geothermal project you have lined up. But with this years New Year news, geothermal trends are spelt out for the coming year (Think Geoenergy, Dec. 27):
'...
4. Public engagement
The industry will now wake up and accept that there needs to be more public engagement for geothermal development and activities in general. Not only PR work, not only pure marketing, but real engagement of stakeholders in communities and regions to educate what geothermal has to offer, but also to accept as criticism'.
So it's quite new, to consult with locals ...
Singing from the same music sheet, a geothermal project at Sorsogon, Philippines wants to meet and discuss opposition to it's proposed geothermal plant there (Think Geoenergy, Dec. 30). Opposition includes:
'... environmental impacts such as land subsidence, dehydration of ricefields and springs that provide the area with tourism and the effects of the geothermal plant’s chemical discharge to the health of host communities'.
Pulang Bato, a hot spring on Negros, Philippines (source).

Recently we discussed the implications of the typhoon on the Philippines geothermal power abilty. Apparently everything has been repaired and all damage has disappeared. One way to cope with the lack of cash in-flow due to the disaapearance of power output has meant that Energy Development Corporation (EDC) has had to teighten it's belt (Think Geoenergy, Dec. 17):
'Hence, the traditional Christmas parties were scrapped and replaced by simple get-together; office supplies have been drastically reduced to the barest minimum; their outreach projects for their host communities have been suspended or scaled down and even snacks during company meetings have been discouraged'.
All to ensure that the shareholders won't have to fork the bill? 

Think Geoenergy (Dec. 18) would also like to fix Indonesia's problems. With geothermal power generartion. In the highly appreciable article they give the floor to Hezy Ram of Ram Energy International. Government investment is distorting the market in Indonesia and thus the investment of private funds. Red tape leads to frustatration and under-the-table payments. And finally the lack of clarity and consistency.
It also touches briefly on the subject of land-ownership. With heavy government involvement, private land-holders are not necesarily paticipating in the projects and are too often sidelined.

So involve locals is the new way ahead? Let's hope.

Tops
The Guardian (Jan. 7) got their New Year ('Forget freezing New Year dips and enjoy a blissfully warm soak instead at one of these natural pools, creeks and beaches') off with a list of the world's free hot springs. Listed are Tavertine (USA), Saturnia (cheating, there's an entrance fee ..., Italy), Reykjadalur (Iceland), Halfway and Lussier (Canada) and Hot Water Beach (New Zealand). There aren't many free hot springs in Southeast Asia, then again most entrance fees are nominal  with some very remote hot springs, which are mostly used by locals still devoid of pricing.

Nominal fee for Pong Duet hot springs, Thailand (source) required, though one can also soak for free in a nearby stream. But as most hot springs in Thailand are located within a national park, entering the park does require a fee ....

Aol Travel (Dec. 9) has a quirkier listing, the 
'Top 9 Places to Enjoy the Snow While Barely Clothed -- or Even Naked'. 
Why only 9? Could they not find 10? Did one turn out totally wrong?
Whatever the reasoning, the only way to enjoy as said are in 9 different hot springs, mostly US based, but also includes the 
'Anywhere, Iceland'
section. 
No Asian mentions, let alone Southeast Asian. The former I understand, but Japanese hot springs, naked and snow seems very normal ...

Or Korea. Korea Times (Dec. 19) lists it's nations best five hot springs.

The best hot spring of China? Xiamen has been awarded the best Hot Spring Tourism Destination in China award (source):
'Xiamen won the title of Best Hot Spring Tourism Destination in China on the first China Hot Spring Summit Forum which was held in Xiamen’s Tong’an District on 22nd December. Xiamen Trithorn Hotspring Resort, a well-known hot spring resort in Xiamen’s Tong’an district, was also awarded the “Best Hot Spring Boutique Hotel”.
Regional updates: obscure
Shocking the locals at #angseri #hotspring #tabanan #bali #indonesia #crazy #russians

There's suspiciously little info from the region itself, with few exceptions.
  • Singapore
Singapore's only urban hot spring, Sembawang, draws yet again another news article (The Republican, Dec. 13). Not really sure why the need for the article, there is no news in it:
'Once attracting 1,000 visitors during its peak on the weekends, the Sembawang Hot Springs has since dwindled into obscurity. However, there are still patrons who continue to visit because they believe the natural hot water that comes out of the spring has healing properties'.
  • Vietnam
From northwest Vietnam I came across this recent photo reportage which records tastefully how locals use their hot spring for bathing. Location is attributed to Tú Lệ commune, Yên Bái Province


Glory
Further afield there is this strange piece of news from Japan (Japancrush, 23 Jan.):
'A well-known onsen village in Kansai is now being sued [for nearly $US 20,000!] by a woman and her mother thanks to a faulty bamboo curtain that meant that for a period of 30 minutes, the women were visible to those in the corridor, in all their naked glory'. 
Is this a sign of the times for Japan, where it seems naked and mixed-sex bathing is on the wane? Are Victorian times ahead of Japan? 
Despite this being an accident and the women having not noticed any lookers they had the following: 
'Following the incident, the women claim they had stomach pains and insomnia, and were diagnosed with anxiety disorder at the hospital. The women’s legal representatives stated that “It equates to considerable mental anguish for a single woman to have her naked body exposed while she bathes”'. 
Reality check.

Globatimes.cn hits another trend, Asian bathing houses. It provides an overview of Shanghai's most popular Japanese, Korean and local-style bathhouses.

More New Years news (Dec. 24) from Taiwan: ideal time to go for a soak. It's a very extensive article with ever

I don't like calling it a trend, but upmarket hot springs are all the rage in China. Near Kunming, Travel Asia reports (Dec. 5) that Dusit will manage a new luxury hot spring resort as of 2016 ...

The Sydney Morning Herald (Dec. 9) has an article on a number of onsen, Japan, doesn't seem to be going anywhere.

Sunday, 2 February 2014

Best Practice

Personal
With the gradual expansion concerning my personal experience on hot springs and the ever growing know-how of hot springs themselves, I have been thinking about how can we add additional original content to the experience concerning natural hot springs soaking, the (bathing) culture involved and the increasing need for conserving the few natural hot springs remaining?

One idea is to make conservation, natural bathing and cultural awareness a recurring theme in these posts. Witness past updates on this blog. 
Another idea is to expand to other internet media; with tumblr this is a resolute success, whereas Facebook somehow has missed the bus altogether ...

Another idea I want to give a try, is to seek alliance's between persons who have similar views or are at least passionate about bathing in natural hot water(s). 
Through the years I have noticed quite a few persons who present their love for soaking either through business associations, through tourism promotion, through consumer consumption or through internet presentation. 
This alliance could take place through actively seeking out these persons by presenting interviews where they can put their views forward or try to understand their thoughts / experiences on soaking in hot spring.

To launch this series of interviews, I have approached the public face of Peninsula Hot Springs (Victoria, Australia), Charles Davidson. Besides being an inspiration and the driving force of Peninsula HS, he has gone out of his way to highlight cultural aspects and conservation of natural hot springs. More recently he put himself forward at the 2013 Global Spa and Wellness Summit where a special forum on global hot springs was held as a means of upgrading our knowledge on soaking in general.

Great way to start the day #peninsulahotsprings

Introducing Charles
Despite it's size, Australia seems not to be well-endowed with reference to the occurrence of natural hot springs. Certainly if compared to many Asian countries. With the exception of a few scattered hot springs, Australia is far from a soakers haven. 

Well, at least until recently. 

Dedicated hot spring followers will have noticed that the internet savvy crowd are mass photo-opting the Peninsula HS (website), located roughly 100 km south of Australia’s second largest city Melbourne. 

The increasing popularity is due in part to the vision and perseverance of Charles Davidson. 
While working and living in Japan during the early nineties of last century, Charles became accustomed with the Japanese love of hot springs with it’s specific bathing culture. 
Some years later, by coincidence he came into knowledge about the existence of hot springs buried in shallow rock not so far from his home town of Melbourne. Forming a partnership with his brother Richard and Norm Cleland, it took five years before a bore-hole revealed 54 degrees hot water found at more than 600m below the current site.

With development starting slowly, it has only been in recent years that visitor numbers to Peninsula HS have swelled. 

Rather than focusing bathing activities on a sole water basin, Peninsula HS is a testament to many of our globes styles of hot water bathing practices, which are combined with many well- and lesser-known wellness practices. 
With annual growth of 30% during the last year, one can see that the vision has paid back. Peninsula HS is now not only a leader in Australia’s wellness sector, it is also one of Victoria's prominent tourism destinations. But more will be in the offering as plans are under way for their stage three of the Peninsula HS blueprint for development.

Charles, you have experienced many a hot spring in the world, but what would have been your most favorite experience? 
"There are many incredible hot springs around the world and selecting one to be my favourite would be like trying to select one of my four children as my favourite - really impossible. So I'll provide three, and provide a brief explanation and a photo of each". 
'Sai-no-Kawara hot springs in the town of Kusatau in Japan. This was the first place I enjoyed natural hot springs in March 1992 and was the experience which started my lifelong passion for hot springs bathing. It was in early spring and the open air hot springs looked out over snow covered trees and the surrounding mountains. I has an epiphany in that pool realising that this was the most gentle and relaxing experience. At that moment I decided I wanted to help people relax in the environment and with each other through the connection of thermal waters. I had been seeking a way to bring together global cultural understanding in a harmonious and sustainable way and thermal waters was a natural connector. Photo taken in December 2013'.
D.I.Y.
When one reads the development story of Peninsula HS, it is evidence of persistence and dedication to fulfil in part your dream.
Concerning the development of Peninsula HS how have you been able to pay the development costs without any certainty about the outcome of both the exploration as well as the development? 
"I feel very fortunate to have been able to lead the life I have had. Passion, perseverance and determination are a few of the traits that have made Peninsula HS possible.
We started with very little money and a dream to bring the wonderful sensation of hot springs to Australia. We have grown slowly over the past eight years, one bath at a time. The money we receive from each visitor to Peninsula HS is spent on staff, maintenance of the facility, community projects and the continual development of the facility. More than 90% of the profit is re-invested into the business and the evolution of the master plan for the site. It all takes time, so patience is also an important trait".
Many of your visits have been to natural occurring hot springs. Can hot springs emanating from bore holes (such as Peninsula HS) be categorized as natural? And irrespective of this, do you believe the future ahead for experiencing hot water bathing is by expanding the number of boreholes?
"Certainly the water that comes from bores is natural and the heat source is also natural so in that sense they are natural. There is, however, a very clear distinction between a free flowing natural hot springs and a bore fed hot springs. I prefer the idea of free flowing hot springs but very often these are only available in remote locations and are very inaccessible.
I think there is a future for both free flowing and bore fed hot springs. Bore fed hot springs enable the relaxation of hot springs to be available to more people. Making sure that our interaction with the environment, and specifically in this instance water resources, is sustainable is essential."
Understood
You have been successful in introducing many of the world's bathing experiences to Peninsula HS, but without the traditions associated. Is this against your philosophy, is it driven by commercialism or do you believe that Australians will be put off by f.i. nudity?
"There are many bathing practices all over the world. Depending on the country and the culture of the country the way of enjoying the hot springs varies. There are actually very few countries where bathing naked is practiced. In Germany male and female bathers all bathe naked together, in Japan male and female bathers have segregated naked bathing areas (that is since the Meiji Restoration in 1868 - before then there was no segregation), and apart from that there are a few rare naked bathing venues in U.S.A., China and Europe. 
The remainder of the world (Middle East, North and South America, Africa, China, Russia, all around Southeast Asia, etc) wear bathers in hot springs. I believe cultural factors are behind this and not commercial factors.
It is also cultural factors and not commercial factors that were behind the choice to require bathing costumes to be worn in the main bathing experiences at Peninsula HS. We have always wanted to provide bathing experiences in which people of all nations and all ages can enjoy together. One of our company visions is achieving 'International understanding through hot springs'. If we only offered naked bathing we would be alienating most of the cultures of the world. 
That being said I personally believe that naked bathing is a much better experience - it feels better. At Peninsula HS we do also offer the opportunity for guests to bathe naked in private indoor and outdoor baths and pools. Guests hire these pools for 30-60 minutes and can choose to bathe with or without a bathing costume. In the future I would also like to offer a Japanese bath house experience in which people can choose to enjoy the traditional Japanese style of bathing. We have many more bathing styles that are planned to be introduced at Peninsula HS. These have been, and continue to be, learned from travels to hot springs all over the globe. Our business is in a constant state of evolution and change".
 
'Bitter Springs at Mataranka in the Northern Territory in Australia. The Bitter Springs are literally a river of crystal clear hot springs that flow over limestone and are surrounded by palm trees and a tropical oasis in the centre of arid semi-dessert country. Visitors can swim and dive (with snorkels and goggles) in the thermal waters together with fish and turtles. Many birds fly overhead in the tall trees. My children swam in the waters and said, 'this is better than the Great Barrier Reef'! A very big statement indeed. We visited Bitter Springs on a family driving holiday in September 2011 when we drove across Australia from North to South (Darwin to Melbourne)'.
To what degree would you support conservation of the very few natural hot springs left in this world?
"Sustainability is a key prerequisite for any business and hot springs are definitely no exception. To evolve hot springs into a global industry that offers natural relaxation and wellbeing to many people can only happen if it is done with the highest level of integrity and concern for the environment. 
I am currently involved in a 2-3 year research project called 'Global best practice in the hot springs industry'. The original goal of the research was to create a blueprint for the creation of the hot springs industry in Victoria, Australia. The study involves learning from hot springs cultures all over the world how they use hot springs for the health and wellbeing of their customers and communities. Central to the research is the question of sustainability and resource management. Without learning there will be no understanding and without understanding there can be no systems around the conservation of and respect for the natural gift of hot springs. The study is looking at both commercial operations and also at traditional indigenous cultural connections to hot springs. You will also see in the details of the Global Hot Springs Forum [below] that I was suggesting that the global hot springs industry could come together to build hot springs facilities as community projects in developing countries. These would have to be built sustainably using the natural resource and with the highest level of cultural respect and understanding".
Can you report on your active participation with the Global Spa and Wellness 2013 Summit (GSWS '13)? Is this the right venue for putting hot springs on the agenda? 
"If the hot springs business is to provide a service to the communities they need to be able to operate at a profit. The GSWS is a gathering of people active and interested in health and wellbeing and coming together to help shape the future. The knowledge gained at the conference is shared with the world free of charge.
In the case of the Global Hot Springs Forum held for the first time at the GSWS in Delhi, India in October 2013, it brought together people from the hot springs industry in many countries. There was a panel of hot springs representatives who lead the discussion. Panel members came from Germany, Japan, China, New Zealand and Australia. The individual presentations from the Hot Springs Forum are available on the GSWS'13 website on Day 3 Monday 7th October.
From the minutes of the forum you will see in this document some ideas for the future evolution of the business and how global hot springs are able to work together".
'Khirganga hot springs, Himachalpradesh, India. A days hike along goat and sheep trails from the town of Manikaran in the Indian Himalayan mountains this is a natural hot springs paradise. It is only open in the summer months and in winter is deep under snow. There is a shanty backpackers tourism village built below the springs'.
Home & Away
Many hot springs worldwide are falling victim to development. Companies are taking over community run resources and changing these into bland, run of the mill, catering to the rich and famous hot spring facilities where the original community is barred and bathing traditions are based on individual-based mainstream therapies. None more so than in China. 

Do you believe mainstreaming hot spring development such as for instance your participation in the aforementioned GSWS '13 will hasten the disappearance of community, natural and often rustic hot springs? Or will it highlight the need to maintain a certain naturality?
"I think it is better to create forums and have discussion on all topics rather than not to have them. There are many issues that need to be addressed and your concern and respect for the maintenance of traditional cultural values and practices is certainly one of them. If discussion does not occur, and particularly at the level of the participants of the GSWS, then there will not be any opportunity to create frameworks around which the industry evolves. Global best practice in the hot springs industry can only be understood if it embraces and involves people from all over the globe".
You describe that there are similarities between Peninsula and the aborigine belief being one with the land. Do Aborigines have connotations with (hot) water?
"There is a long and established tradition of Aboriginal connection to the land and water. Hot springs are found in various parts of Australia and Aborigines have had a connection to them for many thousands of years. Probably the best article I have read that explains the relationships of Aborigines with hot springs is by Dean Ah Chee [1].
I will be travelling in April to the desert country of northern South Australia to meet and learn from Dean Ah Chee the author of this article and a park ranger".
I have heard the bathing world as follows: Asia-natural, Europe-medical, America's-relaxing. Do you really believe this is so clear cut? 
"At the broadest level I think this observation is correct. However the division I use is: 
  • Japan / Asia - natural bathing,
  • Europe - medical / health bathing,
  • U.S.A. - spa industry (retail product driven commercial motivation)
In my presentation at the GSWS Global Hot Springs Forum I changed this by taking out U.S.A. (which offers a combination of Asian and European plus public thermal pools) and adding in 'India - Spiritual'. 

I recently completed another hot springs research tour in U.S.A. and Canada (in September / October) and can say that the majority of hot springs in U.S.A. are natural bathing style. 
There was a strong thermal bathing tradition in U.S.A. a hundred years ago and that largely came from Europe with major influences from the medical / health bathing tradition. The emphasis on medical and health cure caused its downfall as it came head-to-head with the rise of allopathic medicine and the pharmaceutical industry. It became much easier for consumers to take drugs to find answers to their illnesses than travel, often great distances, to spend weeks at hot springs wellness centres. 
The reality is that there is a huge divergence in all aspects of global cultures and hot springs is no exception. It is impossible to be clearcut about any categorisation as in most countries one can find all these styles of bathing. These divisions are just generalisations to help develop understanding".
Charles, thank you for your participation in this interview. I wish you all the best and hope you continue to highlight the ideas and philosophies put forward above. And of course all the best for the future of Peninsula Hot Spring! 

Notes
The photo's of Sai-no-Kawara, Mataranka and Khirganga are used courtesy of Charles Davidson. 
For more information on Sai-no-Kawara, visit one of the many English language websites f.i. this one. For Mataranka Bitter Springs visit this website. And for Khirganga see a posting on Hot soaks of the Himalaya on Himachal Pradesh.

More recent info on Charles Davidson and Peninsula Hot Springs. Mind you this is just a small selection ... : 
References:
[1] Ah Chee, D. (n.d.) Indigenous people's connection with kwatye (water) in the Great Artesian Basin
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