Not many non-Thai will have heard of Ratchaburi province in a touristy sense of way. This province lies due west of Bangkok and covers large areas of the main Thai lowland rice plains that surround Bangkok, as well as a mountainous area on the border with Burma. The Damnoen Saduak floating market may ring a bell to some, but this obligatory tourist creation, though picturesque, is not what I was seeking over the past Easter weekend. With a 24 hour time frame, I just had sufficient time to explore the mountainous part of this province.Background
Ambitious plans a side, the first destination was Pong Krathing, a hot spring located somewhere west of the main motorway which dissects the province north-south on it's way from the south to Bangkok. Prior to leaving for Thailand, I failed to get much information on this hot spring. My own link to this hot spring referred to bangkokmum's: 'i just watch a tv programme on places to go to in ratchaburi … they showed another hot spring called ‘ bor pong krating ‘ … this one’s located on route 3206'.
Elsewhere on the internet there is: 'Pong Krathing Hotspring. A hot spring is located at Phu Nam Ron village in Ban Bueng sub district, Ban Kha district',
This excerpt originating from Chaloem Phrakiat Thai Prachan National Park website. Then there is: 'Pong Krathing hot spring with a diameter of 5m. When circled by a group of people who noisily clap their hands, bubbles will emerge from the well'.
All not very informative, so a task on hand! And let's hope not too many people turn up to clap their hands, even silently!
The road there
What's more is that the aforementioned links certainly don't exert themselves in details on how to get to the hot spring. Luckily, Pong Krathing is also the name of a large village so after leaving the motorway on the best detail I could find online ('highway 3206') a 'Pong Krathing' signboard was not so hard to find.
Just a few kms beyond the motorway one knows well-and-truly that one has returned to the real Thai countryside, especially as a couple of limestone outcrops pop up to the north each with a smiling Buddha somehow perched on these hillocks.
On a major turnoff opposite a traffic police office I managed to find a highly detailed provincial tourism map, which showed not only that I was on the right way, but the hot spring itself was quite a distance from the main road I was following. After passing Pong Krathing village (60 km from the motorway), the road takes a sharp turn to the north and a few kms further on, a hot springs signboard clearly indicates a road to your left / west. The countryside had by then evolved from lowland paddy fields into rolling hills with much secondary forest and pineapple plantations with some rubber plantations, eucalyptus stands and sugar cane fields. There are also quite a few fruit orchards.
The partially overgrown road leads to a large reservoir which, as it is now the start of the Thai hot season, is at quite a low level. At the other side of the reservoir an unpaved road continues along the shore where the main road continues downstream. The road splits after about 500m and the left split leads to the hot spring site of Pong Krathing.
The hot spring site
The hot spring site has seen some development; there is certainly ample parking space, but structures are mostly made by bamboo ensuring it's all low key and thus maintaining a friendly sort of character. No entrance fee is required and a small bridge leads over a stream. On the opposite side of the stream, a few steps lead upwards to a large cemented reservoir with half meter high walls to keep unsuspecting guests from falling in the spring itself while creating a larger reservoir of hot water. Between the reservoir and the stream 3 pools have been constructed each about 3 m in diameter with hot water standing half a meter deep.
The spring itself: walled in. Banana's have been donated to site lounging monkeys.
What makes this site unique is that just a few steps from the hot pools, a pond has been created through a low check dam on the stream. A wooden stair leads into the cool(er) water.
The pond with stair, the hot pools with behind them the spring itself and a few temples.
Usage of the pools was evident (as opposed to the previous blog entry 'Cambodia's finest'): a couple of (local) women were bathing (fully clothed of course), alternating between the hot pools and the cold pond. Near the entrance to the site a signboard gave an overview of the number of visitors which during January and February this year totalled over 200 daily. A local added that these numbers drop off during the hotter months and months which require more rural labour, but still more than 53,000 adults visited the hot spring site last year. Hardly any foreigners visit the site ('sometimes, but never many'), though my contact mentioned that the day before three 'falang' visited. Today I represented the rest of the world.
Other facilities include a number of massage huts and a few places where you can buy drinks, food, snacks and banana's so as to feed the local monkey troupe. The masseuse's had hung up photo's to show they had received some kind of training. There were also a couple of small temples / offer places both near the restaurants as well as beyond the hot spring itself.
The massage huts
Getting There: The best way to get to Pong Krathing hot spring is to take highway 3206, which leaves the A4 motorway a few kms north of where the A4 merges with highway 35. The road, at first flat, gradually climbs through more hilly terrain. After 40 km there is an intersection; the 3206 changes here to the 3313 and there is a road coming from the east (3337), from Ratchaburi city.
After 60 kms from the motorway, there is an intersection with a well-signposted road to the west / left. Taking this turn, the road continues on for another 10 km until you reach a large reservoir on your right. After a total of 13 km from the last major intersection, an unpaved road to the right passes over a bridge. Five hundred meters further on this unpaved road splits and the left split leads to the hot spring (500m).
A faster route from the motorway may possibly be the route coming from the north: the 3087 leaves the A4 just north of Ratchaburi City and passes the town of Chombueng. Forty five kms from the motorway one takes the direction of Ban Kha (3313) and continues onward to the aforementioned turn to the reservoir. The distance is roughly the same, but the road sees more traffic and is wider.
Soaking Experience: The possibility to alternate hot with cold soaks adds to making this place a great place to soak, though the hot pools are very small and during a busy weekend (when many non-locals visit the hot spring) the experience might be a bit disappointing. There were also no private pools, alas.
Overall Impression: The lack of any large scale development, the absence of an (excessive) entry fee and the efforts of locals to make the hot spring attractive to themselves with good facilities esp. like the huts for the masseuse's give a lasting impression. Added to this is the relative good access, though it still is remote. Unfortunately the local surroundings, though picturesque (mountains / reservoir) are not readily accessible and no local efforts have been made to provide accommodation even in the wider area. The direct surroundings were still very natural. But if you are heading either further upcountry or going south to Hua Hin taking this diversion is certainly worthwhile.
Cambodia's only hot springs site: naturally not, developed not.
Well, the title to this entry is a bit unfair, considering this is the only place in Cambodia with a hot spring. It must be the finest! Still the title is true, but possibly a bit misleading ....
Name
Before rating the site based on my visit of last week another hot issue concerning this entry concerns the name of the springs. It's been mentioned to as Phnom Te, Tai Teuk Pous, Ta Te Teuk Pus (Cambodia Life), Te Teuk Pus, and probably a couple more variations on the preceding. Matt Jacobsen's 2007 Ultimate Cambodia guide (arguably the best guide, of and off the tourist trails in Cambodia) gives his own solution: he simply refers to it as 'Ancient hot springs'!
However here at Soaking in Southeast Asia we've decided on Tei Teuk Pous which is the name on the prominent signboard announcing your impending arrival at the site. Then again it's not 100% sure that there is no typo error on that signboard, but we have to start somewhere.
The road travelled
Considering Cambodia has only just the one hot spring, you would imagine that it's not so hard to find. To a certain degree that's correct, finding it is not too difficult, getting there is entirely different story. Located in Kampong Speu province, the springs are to be found in Aural (or Oral) district of this province. Considering it's not directly on the tourist trail, it can be excused that the tiny district headquarters (otherwise known as Sangkea Satob) fails to direct you in the right direction. Then again if you know there's only 1 roundabout in the district and you need to go west, these clues should be sufficient to guide you onwards to the hot springs which are roughly 10km south of Sangkea Satob's roundabout.
Imminent arrival, one signboard (hot water) the other: Tei Teuk Pous Ecotourism
As you have been traveling on poor roads (or very poor roads) for over two hours, you must be getting exhilarated by finally arriving at the hot springs themselves, however, if it wasn't for a signboard you probably would have just driven past.
The springs themselves
In all honesty, for a hot spring, it's a bit disappointing. As you can see from the photo, the two signboards give an indication as to which direction the springs are to be found. There's a makeshift temple between the road and the springs, which are 50 m further away. Some development has taken place, I'll get to that later and some is still impending (considering the amount of heaped gravel lying close by). The springs lie on the edge of a swampy area. Development has lead to a 50 cm high wall around the springs, the top of which is level to the surrounding ground. Some of the springs within this 10m in diameter box have been cemented in, no idea why. The pond overflows at a couple of places and a stream carries this hot overflow away in the direction of the swamp. From the barrier wall, steel rods protrude upwards, indicating that there are plans to raise the wall higher so as to create a pond with a larger capacity. Where most of the water overflows steel pipes with valves lie roughly 50 cm above the water. Could it be that after the wall has been raised, these would be then used to allow water to enter the steel pipes? Possibly. And where do the steel pipes go to?
The springs themselves, the only way is up?
Before I answer that, I could additionally highlight that there used to be a separate system with wooden boxes (for bathing purposes?). There's a sitting Buddha statue, though it's significance eludes me. But what is pretty clear is that the site is neither natural anymore nor open to bathing. I do take off my shoes and let my feet dangle in the hot stream, but is that the satisfaction for this day-long trip?
Development?
Well, aside from satisfying my curiosity there is still the issue of the steel pipes. The steel pipes follow the stream for a while but where the stream makes a turn the pipes continue straight in and through a forest of sorts.
I return to the springs themselves get on my motorbike and travel 500m back where a straight and broad road (complete with gutters) heads to a building, which on closer inspection is a gate /entrance. Parked the motor again and on foot through the gate. The buildings are all of recent date though for possibly a year or so it seems to have been deserted. Beyond the gate, small wooden structures can be seen which are meant to be bathing houses. Each have been stylishly designed, with doors and a small shelter. Unsheltered to the sky, are a squarish tubs roughly 1 by 1m, 50-70 cm in depth. On the sides of the tubs not connected to the shelter there is trellis, possibly to give some privacy for bathers. All in all, these would provide a better soaking experience than many I have observed in Thailand.
Soaking huts: spread out
There are roughly about twenty of these structures, some larger than others. Beyond these are changing rooms (with lots of cow shit!), an intended restaurant with deck and separate picnic tables with shade covering. This all backs onto the swamp with the hot stream in the foreground. In the distance one can still observe the hot springs.
The place is eerie silent, if it were not for the abundant bird life. Overall the surroundings (here and back at the springs) were alive with birds: swallows, bee-eaters, a coucal, a pair of pied starlings, babblers and more. If not for the hot springs, the site is certainly interesting for bird-watching!
Though the buildings are certainly not overgrown, no recent evidence of human occupation can be seen. Already a huge tree has come crushing down and blocking a couple paths.
More on the hot springs' development
Apparently, the 'ecotourism' of the signboard site refers to these new structures. A 2006 article on the Lutheran World Foundation's (LWF) development work nearby the hot springs describes the following:'But the community fears that the underground water [of a deep well] will be exhausted in future if the golf courses, being developed by two foreign-owned companies, become operational. The construction of golf courses and hotels near the village, in the guise of eco-tourism is ongoing. "We know that these companies will be using much more water than we do," the villagers lament. "Our deep wells might dry up."
Mr David H. Mueller, the LWF/DWS representative in Cambodia, points out that the "ecotourism" project has also claimed the Suoy people's sacred hot springs, and disallows access to other natural resources the community has customarily relied on, especially in the most meager season for food and income'.
Matt Jaconbsen (2007) adds: 'A swank hotel and health spa was recently built to cash in on the reputed benefits of the water and is located just before one arrives at the main site'.
And one of the aforementioned sites (Phnom Te):'Hot spring is rare is Cambodia and expected to become a big spa for health rehabilitation in the future'.
Well, a swank hotel it certainly is not, neither would I refer to the intended hot springs park (?) as a health spa. And there is certainly no evidence of golf courses.
Did the companies run out of money? Possibly. However it was always going to be a long shot, the road from the main highway is a 60 km non-black topped 'road'. Half of which is in very poor condition, another of Cambodia's so-called dancing roads. I count myself lucky I decided to take just two-wheels, this way I can wind my way through the pot-holes. Nevertheless, it took me a little more than 2 hours to complete the 60 kms. If you are expecting scores of cars to travel up from Cambodia's bustling capital Phnom Penh to see the springs for themselves (and knock a golf ball around), well that might be a slight miscalculation!
The 'resort' entrance: a road less traveled?
What if?
However, with giving the companies the rights to develop the site, alternative small-scale development has (or is) probably not allowed. That's unfortunate, local interest in the springs would have remained strong. Certainly, Matt Jacobsen refers to the springs having significant medical / health properties:'Cambodians far and near still make the journey in an effort to rid themselves of skin diseases and other illnesses'.
Additionally, he refers extensively to the spiritual significance for the local Suoy: 'The site is still used for religious ceremonies by the local minority Suoy people, so it is possible that knowledge and use of this site has been passed down through the centuries. It is believed that spirits reside at the hot springs and parents have been known to take their children, along with a buffalo, to the springs when the children became ill, sacrificing the buffalo to the spirits to rid the child of the illness'.
And if this is not significant enough he relates how archaeological finds have been made near the springs themselves; pieces were reckoned to have: 'very symbolic religious motives.
....
'Legend has it that kings came to the site to enjoy the medicinal value of the mineral water and the area may be part of an Angkor era burial mound'.
This would most probably mean that locals would continue to not only visit the site, but enhance it. Not all development is for the good. That said the structures built are certainly not swanky as mentioned but rather in keeping with the natural site itself. Unfortunately the developers have not chosen to fulfill their promise.
Finally
In the end, despite their significance for Cambodia the springs currently have little value other than for 'freaks' (I mean that positively!) such as myself: satisfying my curiosity.
More photo's of Tei Touk Pous can be found on my hot springs photo site.
[Update (March 7, 2008): An article in Asialife (March, 2008, Phnom Penh edition) on Kampong Speu province identifies the site as Teuk Phoh: 'Although not a volcanic country Cambodia boasts hot springs high in the foothills of Mount Aural. Teuk Phoh, which means emerging water in Khmer, is located on a five hectare site full of forests and red rock'.
If anything the author is misled, probably never been there. Some sentences seem to be copied from this site. The hot springs are not high up in the foothills! Nor is the site full of forests and red rock, if anything it is a swamp! The author identifies the locals as Kuoy instead of Suoy. She (Anita Surewicz) does add that:' Washing your face with spring water is believed to bring good luck!'
End of update]
Getting There: Tei Touk Pous hot springs are located in Oral district, Kampong Speu. From Phnom Penh take highway no 4. to just beyond Kampong Speu town (nearly 50 km from the city centre). A large signboard announces the turn to Oral which is on the west side of the road. Continue along this black-topped road for two kilometers until you get to a bridge over a canal, straightaway turn toyour left and follow the canal road for about 200 m, after which it is clear that the road veers off the side of the canal. This is also the worst stretch of the road. From here it is nearly 50 km to Sangkea Satob, Oral district headquarters. The closer to Sangkea Satob the less potholes, possibly some overall kind of road reconstruction is taking place, possibly it could just as well be a dry season job, the road deteriorating after the monsoonal rains. In Sangkea Satob, go straight at the roundabout, the road narrows slightly and winds more. The landscape becomes much more forestry and you pass a couple of streams until after 10km from the roundabout the main road you've been following veers too the right and a big cement sign on your left reads 'hot water'. You have arrived!
Getting there: prepare yourself for some dusty rock 'n roll!
Soaking Experience: Well as you may have read above there's not much of a bathing culture nor facilities. Dangling your feet in the main pool would be ill-advised, too hot! Just follow the run-off of the overflow until you find a place where soaking your feet is possible and agreeable. Do not expect to soak more than your feet. Not in the near future
Overall Impression: Considering that the springs are not open for business I would not recommend anyone to specifically visit the springs, but if you need to be in the area (why?), a short stop maybe warranted.
Update. From September 2010 an article in the Phnom Penh Post (reblogged). No changes to situation described above.
Bangkok Post are well and truly in the 'cold' season frame of mind. This week's travel supplement (Horizons) includes a review of a stay in and near Fang hot springs, northern Thailand, Chiang Mai province: 'A national park mightn't be your first choice of destination when touring the North. but this one, about three hours (160km) by car from Chiang Mai city, has a lot to offer. For openers: In how many places, here or abroad, can you luxuriate in an open-air bathtub fed by water from a hot spring?
Once known as Mae Fang, this national park was renamed in May, 2006 to make it more readily identifiable with its biggest attraction: Doi Pha Hom Pok, which, at 2,285 metres above sea level, is the second highest peak in the Kingdom (after Doi Inthanon).
If you're anxious to get to the summit in time to see the sun rising over a sea of mist then it's best to camp at the base of the mountain for an early start. Otherwise you'll be a good deal more comfortable in the accommodation at park HQ, about an hour's drive from the campsite.
Each of the resort-standard wooden bungalows has two bedrooms, one with a double, the other with a single bed. There's air-conditioning and a TV in each plus a hot-water bathroom with a proper bath and a large balcony with table and chairs.
Unfortunately it is the same springs they highlighted two months ago. No wonder it is the most popular hot springs resort in the country! Soaking in Southeast Asia visited these springs in November.
Sorry about the quality of the pictures, they do come straight from the Bangkok Post site!
Thursday (Jan 31, 2008) Bangkok Post published an extensive article on the eastern part of Chiang Rai province. They also highlighted a hot spring waterfall in neighbouring Phayao province. 'However, instead of heading further north, some visitors may choose to go southwards to Phu Sang National Park in Phayao Province to a waterfall that is noted for its warm water. Situated about 45 kilometres south of Phu Chi Fah on Highway 1093, along the route they stop briefly at a highland agriculture development station famous for its pink and yellow lillies, elegant tulips and barley plots on Doi Pha Mon mountain range in Thoeng district (Chiang Rai) before proceeding to the waterfall that figured in the Tourism Authority of Thailand's "Unseen Thailand" promotion drive a few years back.
The small but elegant waterfall is just a few steps off the highway. It is a popular meeting point for local people who can be seen relaxing or picnicking around the fall. They bring their own pillows, mattresses and order food from stalls next to the park's information office.
According to park officer Nanthana Suwantha, water temperature at the point the fall originates stays a steady 35 degrees Celsius, except when it rains. The warm water cascades over limestone cliffs to form clear pools next to the highway.
A testing trail, which includes a flight of 80 steps, leads to the waterhead that's off-limit to swimmers. We followed the trail. However, there wasn't much to see once we reached the other end. So we hung around for a while to give our legs some rest before heading back'.
The main swimming basin, with a small changing room in the backgroundIt may surprise many, but northern Thailand faces a longer cold spell during the months of November - February. Nothing like the freezing temperatures elsewhere in the northern hemisphere though, but enough to make enjoying hot springs a real pleasure.
So with a couple of hours of the first day of 2008 to spare while passing through Chiang Rai, my family and I decided to take the plunge at Pha Soet Hot Springs, located roughly at 20 kms westwards out of town. This late in the afternoon getting transport willing to take us out of town proved a challenge, but eventually a compliant tuk-tuk chauffeur gave us a break and in we hopped.
The first day of 2008 (and the final day of a 4 day holiday) had brought Chaing Rai's citizens out en masse to a local flower show, winter being a more convenient time of the year for this, rather than the hot and humid months. It being the time of the day everybody was getting pesky, this mass was trying to negotiate the narrow road leading back to Chiang Rai from the flower show grounds, we were the only traffic facing this exodus head on. Our driver was certainly not upbeat, he had hoped for an early return. Eventually we managed to get to the hot springs just shortly before dusk.
In to hot water: just a foot soak!
The main springs: cemented and fenced in
A slow boil, eggs in woven baskets are boiled while you wait (and are not in a hurry!)
So we rented a private pool for a minimum hour rate (30 baht = +/- 1 $US per person) and after a little discussion (foreigners oddly enough refrain from using full pools (never know who has bathed before us!); "they want the pools to be filled while they are paying for their hour!") We got undressed and spent a bit more than half an hour warming ourselves to a medium rare, before getting dressed again and taking the chilly ride back to Chiang Rai town (with our anxious driver).
Pha Soet Hot springs: know what you are getting into
Wear and tear, quite literally: the inside basins
:
Though I may seem a bit finicky, we quite liked the place: laid back, well visited but not too tacky. Understand why the Thai must love it!
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The spring itself: walled in. Banana's have been donated to site lounging monkeys.
The pond with stair, the hot pools with behind them the spring itself and a few temples.
The massage huts 
