Cliff hanger

Cliff hanger? Of the many issues concerned with soaking in general, clothing or the lack of this seems to be an ever returning issue. And a divider between the communities who adhere to the principle the less the better (purists?), whereas others see bathing as an obscenity and if public bathing is essential (for health reasons) then preferably fully clothed (the prudists).

'A group of Mosuo women and tourists bathing in the famous hot springs of Yongning, Yunnan province, China. August 2007'.

Pure?

What brought me to this subject was a photo in the April issue of the international National Geographic magazine. Due to copyright and so forth I can't post the photo nor give the exact location but only the link to the photo slide show. About half way through you'll come across the photo. It's caption is

'Lisu women bathe in thermal pools to celebrate the coming of spring. A proposed dam would drown this site, one of the valley's few remaining public baths. Developers have turned other springs into tourist resorts'.

This caption and photo sums up all what's wrong with soaks in Southeast Asia. (even though it's China, but Yunnan is a bit inbetween the two!) The soaks are disappearing or are being sold out, often to get rich quick schemes. The caption also seems unrelated, all the persons doing here is having a bath, but by the looks of this you could say it's a celebration of sorts.

But aside of this there was a response on racialicious.com to this photo and is as follows:

'there was an article about a town in Western China that’s dubbed itself Shangri-La, there was a picture of topless women bathing in a hot spring spa. It was, as is almost always the case with NG, [National Geographic] a nicely framed photo, but I immediately questioned whether they would have shown a picture like that of a group of women in say, Iceland, or Wyoming. I think not. To me, it was a glaring double-standard and strong evidence of othering. Naked “other” breasts in NG are practically a cliche'.

Double standards (besides being racist one could also state that it is sexist) or not the photo itself does raise some issues concerning bathing rituals, worldwide and in Southeast Asia. Here at Soaking in Southeast Asia, we've waded into this debate briefly; on a few occasions just getting our toes wet so to say:

• March 29, 2009 (Thai comment on Japanese onsen customs):

  'One inhibition for most Thai and even some Westerners, is the going naked part. But once you overcome it, the rest is easy and enjoyable. Keep in mind that you can use a little tower to cover your private part when out of the water. Sure enough the Japanese themselves do so too’.

• February 28, 2009 (on Nepal and Rules of Chinese traditional hot spring bathes - Taiwan):

  'most bathed in their underwear'

  and

  ''Requiring every person to soak only in their birthday suits seems to be a sanitary issue".

• January 14, 2009 (Japan):

  'In fact, I found I really enjoyed talking with the other bathers--maybe I too could get hooked on mixed bathing'.

  and

  'Are there any hot springs in Southeast Asia where bathing au-naturel and co-ed is practiced? No? Well, who know's there might be business opportunity here ....'

• January 11, 2009:

• 'Issues I often come across when debating hygiene standards of various hot springs sites in Southeast Asia, are those of various standards of dress. In my belief (which seems logic) the more clothing worn during bathing, the more unhygienic. So au-naturel bathing should be encouraged. But not in conservative Southeast Asia; both Buddhists as well as Muslim frown on any state of undress. Though Hindu Bali seems more relaxed on this issue, those in charge still feel compelled to signpost that bathers are being strictly forbidden to take to the waters starkers. Thus many are actually fully clad. ... I for one certainly understand it's not everybodies cup of tea (bathing au-naturel) but a certain degree of tolerance is all that's needed. It's sad to see age old traditions of tolerance of body and body acceptance eroded by narrow minded politicians clamoring for the moral high ground'.

• April 1, 2008:

  ' ... a pleasant skinny-dip can be had'.

• November 6, 2007 (concerns soaking in Thailand):

  'Last year, I visited New Zealand and on 1 occasion rented such a 'cell'. Though it looked like a good idea at the moment, we hardly used it. Yes, you can pursue your own dress code, but you exclude yourself from the surroundings: is it rainy, sunny, windy, are birds whistling, is the vegetation green, who are my neighbours, what's my son up to? No way of knowing. I personally would like to soak 'au naturel' whenever, where ever, but somehow world societal norms are set against this. Beats me why?'

Nudity sells. The global community seems to be obsessed with this, a case in point are the photo's I put up on my flickr site; even a hint of skin results in much higher number of views. Most photo's count are anywhere between 0 and 20 views. But somehow this poorly taken photo rakes in more than 1500 views. Or this one on my waterfall photo's site which raked up more than 500. Or 200 plus for this? Or 200 for this. Before the month is done, these may well have doubled, just due to this posting!

Simply captioned 'Ardent Hot spring': the bare neccesities of soaking in Southeast Asia?

But back on subject. The not so established public hot bathing rituals of Southeast Asia require without exception a minimum of a bathers, though the more, the better it seems. Bali might be an exception but even there there are signs at hot springs asking all to wear bathing gear. In English and Bahasa, the former somehow implying that soaking clothed is not customary.

Not always to be avoided:

'Jessy and Me at Sunkei in Malaysia...staying at luxury villa ..Hot Springs....Peaceful...Quiet....
SUCH A gREAT tIME IN the outdoor private Jacuzzi....nice ya...'

In bigger soak sites especially in Thailand and Malaysia, on offer are a couple of cubicles which might imply that yes, we understand that bathers are not for all, so if you insist, go ahead use these cubicles. However it seems that they might mean the opposite. Shy, not to worry, you can lock the door. But au-naturel en public? Non!

In Singapore it's even a crime, as it's considered obscene!

'The pair of undergraduates who sauntered through Holland Village in the buff in January have paid for their prank. They were fined $2,000 each on Thursday, the maximum fine for an obscene act'.

However Asian culture differs, not only in Bali. The prior mentioned sign shows that just outside Southeast Asia's borders standards differ. And a little farther afield in Japan standards are completely the opposite much to the chargrijn of US visitors!
On the other side Japanese nudity is so common, it's strange to them that tourists make their way to Japan just for the opportunity to enjoy the soaks as the locals do:

'Yoshio Ono, president of Osenkaku, which manages Takaragawa Onsen, explains that there had been many foreign customers from before, such as Philippe Troussier, former coach to the Japanese national soccer team. “However, the number of foreign customers has increased from late last year, and there are weekdays when over 70% of our guests are from overseas. They’re well-mannered too,” he says'.

Though some local visitors are dumbstruck:

'“This is about the only place where you can have a close encounter with naked blond-haired women. It appears that the hair on the head may be blond but the color below could be different.”

Here's a report from a naturist in Japan, but most blogs on onsen's just simply ignore the nudity issue: it's a non-issue!

Part of the taking the moral high ground within Asia is due to development. The further away from development, the less the likelihood that mores suggest a certain dress code.

In historical tense bathing more or less au-naturel was the way to go. But as stated elsewhere in this blog, affluency meant the need to distinguish oneselves, what better that to show off wearing expensive clothes?

But possibly times are a-changing. For instance, the emphasis of the spa industry on naturalness might imply bathing au-naturel to be trendy. It could catch on! The above example from Japan clearly shows that there's a market for soaking purists. And other examples from the region seem to imply that being uptight is only for the rich and possibly powerful. What better way to express power than to order everyone around. Me? Just give me an option, is that to much to ask for?

Photo caption:

'after bathing in the hot river [in Iceland]. we tried re-enacting the cover of the new sigur ros album, but there wasn't any road with a guard rail to jump over. i met this people just a few hours before, but if you can jump into a river naked with them, why not? (never mind the amused/embarrassed looks of passers-by)'.

Is this just pure natural fun?]

May 2009 Updates

I would have liked to give you all the news on hot springs in Southeast Asia but there is none! So I'll once more guide the reader to ithe more nteresting blog entries. And to some other issues.

One of these issues was the most recent posting on spa's. Interesting is that I defined a spa as

'any place having a natural water source that is believed to possess special health-giving properties'.

One of the world's most authoritative voices of the spa industry, Intelligent Spas refers to spa as

'a business offering water-based treatments practiced by qualified personnel in a professional, relaxing and healing environment' This definition was developed to support the original meaning of spa being "healing through water". Water-based treatments may include body wraps, body scrubs, baths, etc.'

End of definition. One aspect which I seemed to have omitted is the professionality whereas I concentrate soaking on in natural waters, preferably without somebody telling me what to do. Then again I suppose a spa might just be cleaner than a soak.

On the art and hot springs theme of a couple of months back, the soakersforum actually now has a thread on hot springs in movies which actually answers which hot spring was featured in the Easy Rider film. Concerning Easy Rider ,Taos the town near the mentioned hot spring, actually will celebrate 40 years after the film came out. There have been other films with hot springs featured but whether these are viewable or not is entirely different question. Have any Southeast Asian hot springs been in films?

But before I get into the specifics of each nations blog entries on hot springsthe folowing: a common phenomena becoming ever so popular in the spa industry are fish tanks where you can let the fish tickle your feet while at the same time letting them eat your dead skin cells.
Life's Happenings describes this in some detail how it not only is healthy:

'After a spa session with the 'fish doctors', they eventually need to see a real medical doctor as their legs had turned reddish, itchy and blotchy'.

He also provides a link to no less than the Wall Street Journal which has a story on banning these fish spas (in 14 states they've been outlawed! Poor fish).

More weird 'spa business': Onsen hot spring powder?

'this powder changes hot water at your home into Japanese onsen hot spring. instant onsen at home!'

Your own foul smelling hot 'spring' @ home! Well, it's forest scent.ed Is this odd or not?

So now on to the blogs:

Malaysia

• More on Ulu Legoing by Frankness to you. Includes photo's.

• Revealed the hot spring of Changkat Jering near Taiping, Perak. Zest-zipper:

  'One might ask, “Is it worthwhile doing so?” For me I did not notice any significant changes in me after dipping in the hot spring for a couple of times. I was told that frequent submersion in the hot water would render me impotent to father a child. How far this is true is yet to be proven, either by me or by the scientists.
  As for my wife, in her own testimony, she claimed that soaking in the hot spring was very effective in reducing her weight from 72 kilograms to 65 kilograms over a number of weeks. Reduction in her body weight has lessened the burden on her knees considerably. The other benefit that she has reaped was a sound sleep in the evening after a dip in the hot-spring water during the day.

• Poring. Jenni on the run reports:

  'By the sound of “Poring Hot Spring” might seemed like a spa, but at first sight, the thought of my mind was “like that only ah?”. It’s like any local waterfall with picnics around & kids running about. U can opt to soak ur body or only legs. Since we weren’t “equipped”, we went legs only instead. U could see steam from the water surface.I had my doubts about the water being “spring”. It might actually just be water being boiled somewhere. Anyway, It took me sometime to get accustomed to the hot water. Make that 20mins. By the time I got out of the water, my legs was lobster red, ready to be eaten'.

This is what Poring spring looks like. Cosy!?

• Sungai Klah revisited. Lots of photo's by jelajah xplorer. And by just sharing.

• Fuzzydandelion reports on Selayang:

  'The place and its facilities is quite good. Spacious parking space, the bathrooms/toilets are well kept, abundance of food stalls with some other shops that offer traditional treatment services like reflexology and leech therapy which I did not really paid much attention to it. The place even offered pails for rent for the ones who did not bring their own buckets. So don't forget to bring your own'.

  Bucket? Or leeches?
  

Vietnam

• Phu Ninh is a lake in the central Vietnamese province of Quanh Nam:

  'In the afternoon, you can visit a hot spring where water of more than 70 degrees Celsius whooshes up from the depths of Phu Ninh, then look for a “wild island” to pitch a tent and cook your fish'.

  Which fish?
  

Philippines

• A mention is made (by mistressblogger) of one resort in Laguna, Agua Caliente where

  'they charge only 70 pesos for night swimming, and you can already enjoy their big pool with real hot flowing spring water. Where the hot spring water is coming out, I allowed to massage my back and my scalp, but at first I thought I got scalded because of the water's very high temperature'.

• Balat Island has a (big) hot spring added to the list. It's ancient uses:

  'it was used by local folks to dress chicken and pigs before being cooked. The smaller spring on the other hand was utilized as a natural facial spa before but nobody from our group was daring enough to try putting the hot mud on the face'.

Thailand

Vavijo has a couple of photo's on photobucket. Don't use shampoo!
Obviously in Thailand, but where? Krabi?

Arrh, there too many blog posts coming out. Next month I'm only going to just highlight a few special ones!

Spa-ing and Soaking: Same-Same but Different?

One could state that soaking is an increasingly popular past time, not only here in Southeast Asia, but worldwide. But to be able to state this, one would need to know how many soaks there are and the number of visitors, i.e. back it up with some data. Which are not available.
But leaf through any travel related print and, sure, there will be an increasing amount of articles and more advertising on ... spa's. But is going to the spa, the same as taking a soak?

Soaks and soaks of sorts
Soaks, as I understand them, are soaks in natural waters. They become soaks as the waters are usually warm or hot. Looking for where these natural waters occur in the heated substance, one is looking for hot springs. So soaks are in their majority hot springs.
I say in majority, as here in Southeast Asia, we experience a prolonged period of hot weather. So hot, that shallow bodies of water warm up and could be considered as soaks. As could be the sea, which surprisingly sometimes fails to cool the swimmer.
During the heat, cooling down is often a better option and it's no secret that I enjoy waterfalls as much as or just as much as hot springs. One factor in their favour, is that there are many more waterfalls. Possibly because of their numbers, unnatural enhancements are less obvious to come across upon. And here in Southeast Asia if there's no road, no car park, no amount of food stalls, it can't be worth it ... But for me (and my family) that's just the attraction. What better way to unwind, cooling off naturally, in a natural environment, 'au naturel'?

April this year, Yak Loam Lake Ratanakiri province, Cambodia: the 'coolest' soak.

Define spa!
But I'm digressing. So are spa's not the same as soaks? The word spa, you'd be surprised to know, is actually a shorter version of the Russian word 'spasibo'. Which was the word Peter the Great used in 1717 when offered water, as he was sojourning nearby the town now known as Spa located in the Wallonian Ardennes.

Why they changed the name of the town remains a mystery, considering it had been used as a soaking site from the 14th century onwards. Anyway, such was the significance of this happening, that today the global relaxation industry is greatly dominated by the word. Though the word spa is largely eponymous with any place having a natural water source that is believed to possess special health-giving properties, in practice spa seems to have more in common with other wider themes such as health tourism or wellness rather than soaking itself. Massages, wraps, facials are all standard ingredients one can expect at a spa. What's more they have little or no relation to the existence of natural springs, be they warm or cold. And their health claims seem mostly unfounded. Spa's are nearly all located in or near urban areas where they can provide a 'retreat' from the outside world and/or on beaches where tourists may well be tempted off the beach to a, as naturally possible, property to indulge.

Exclusive
What all spa's have in common though is an emphasis on a different distinctness with a hope for attracting the well-heeled. The more exclusive the better. Especially here in Southeast Asia, spa's aim for the upper class. AsiaSpa puts it like this:

'Targeted at wealthy professional women aged between 30 and 50, AsiaSpa invites its readers to step outside their everyday urban environment and escape to a tranquil world where body and mind are refreshed'.

Though I might have a weakness for the mag, for instance it includes issues such as this month (May 2009) a special: 'The Family Issue'. With articles such as 'how to... be a super parent' and 'yoga for fertility'! However it's commercial emphasis and pretension to highlight the distinct rather than the true natural , certainly doesn't endear itself.

This penchant for exclusiveness is in contrast to say northern Europe where thermal bathing is open to all. But class associations are made between town's. i.e. Harrington for the lower class, Royal Spa Leamington for the upper class. This is also evident in other European nations. Places such as Evian or Baden-Baden are known as places where the upper class hang out, so to say.
In Holland (and Germany) though, spa's as such are scarce and sauna's are there to give what is essentially is a spa experience, though with the emphasis on taking a sauna, with the possibility of other upgrades (wraps, massages) or extensions (sunbed). Significantly these are less distinctive for upper / lower class. And they emphasize social contact.
One could compare this culture very much akin to that of onsen and sento in Japan. Though a soak may be great, a soak with great (new) friends is even better.

This all seems quite in contrast to spa's, where relaxation is the mantra such that tranquility becomes all enveloping (see above quote). And to muffle away the odd a-natural sound here and there, they offer background sounds, a fast flowing stream, gentle waves, rustling leaves, etc.. Believing that socializing is again against human nature, rooms are parted and separated.
The most exclusive massage I had here in Phnom Penh was a joint massage, the joint being a door between the massage rooms which was opened, rather than a room where at least both of us would lie. Possibly by de-socializing the experience it becomes more exclusive: "Oh ,I had a plunge pool all to myself". And how long did it take to get bored?

So ..., not the same?
No, I believe. A spa for me, is there for the convenience of a cheap massage. In contrast seeking a soak is an undertaking, getting out, an expedition, a voyage of discovery, a search for the holy grail and a possible reward at the end. But, all -in-all a lot of fun and interest.

I mean, in Southeast Asia what makes some of the most exclusive spa's differ from each other?
Take Tamarind Springs on Thailand's isle of Samui. It goes all out to tempt the tourist off the beach and it certainly looks great.

Hmm, would you pay to experience this? Nature is a plenty in Thailand.

'Tamarind Springs Forest Spa, Samui is inspired by its superb location – its lush coconut groves gently sloping into a valley of huge granite boulders bordering the island’s jungly interior. Built out of love and respect for this unique landscape, every effort was made to fluidly integrate this Samui spa into the existing indigenous surroundings.
...

The magical forest surroundings will help you to completely unwind.
The Forest. At The Forest guests enjoy drifting between the fragrant herbal steam cave and cold water rock pools, snacks and refreshments in the tea sala, before their massage treatments in open air pavilions.'

Is this much more different than a soak? Possibly, because the customer is king, hygiene is high, quality is good. But most Thai soaks offer a massage and the waters are more inclined to have therapeutic qualities. Then again at Tamarind Springs you do get disposable underwear!

Over at Losari (Central Java) it's more of the same (massage), though they have a hamam and not a steam room. It claims:

'An oasis for tranquility and renewal'

Maybe?

Anantara at the so-called Golden Triangle:

'Whether you choose an exotic fruit peel or a signature four-hand massage, Anantara's spa therapists will tailor every treatment to ensure your relaxation. From the moment you step into the spa's three-storey mountainside reception room, you'll feel infused with a sense of calm'.

Anantara Spa: Enticing? What happened to the view?

But again a number of massages to choose from, possibly an extensive choice, just to make it exclusive. But nothing more than a typical hot spring, other than exclusiveness with a price to fit.

Again they are different but also similar. Soaks, now those are different! They are naturally tranquil. No need to blend in some background muzak. Now let's hope the developers don't impose themselves and make spa's out of those great soaks!