Mud on our mind

Tiermas, Navarra, Spain: natural geothermal spring and mud bath: better than a soak? By Patrick_22_b:

'Tiermas Stuwmeer met zwavelbronnen bij ruïnes van oud dorpje'

Popular

Hot on the heels of Soaking in Southeast Asia's blog on Thap Ba hot spring (Nha Trang, Vietnam) I got to wondering what would the basis of this hot spring's success. Some suggestions in that blog were:

• ease of access,
• high degree of visits by tourists and
• many potential domestic visitors.

But these do not seem to be the key.

Elsewhere Soaking in Southeast Asia read that the rate of foreign visitors versus nationals was like 40:60, a fact which in itself is not so surprising. However on most visits to hot springs in Southeast Asia, I was the only foreigner. So why so many foreigners?

The only reason why, could be due to the difference in tourists nationalities (many Russians) and/or the potential to take a mud bath.
Yes, mud. Essential to the Thap Ba experience is a mud bath. While in Nha Trang, tourists will go out of their way to take a mud bath, a highlight of their holidays.

Now, as slopping around in slurry is such a draw, why aren't mud baths more commonplace?

Research
Soaking in Southeast Asia put this thought into some research:

• Mud is healthy

Yes, besides vitamins and organics, mud is essentially a lot of minerals packed together. And we know that these minerals are an essential part of hot spring soaking. And bathing in hot mineral water can assist disease treatment, as well as have marked health benefits when used long term.

World's most used online reference manual, Wikipedia, hardly expands on this theme which seems a bit strange. 'Therapeutic' is one suggestion, another points to 'relieving of arthritis'. Others inputs include 'healing properties' and 'skin revitalization'.

A better source of reference is the medindia.net entry on mud baths (under the alternative medicine chapter):

'Mud bath is a detox therapy, which has become extremely popular around the globe. Until rather recently, many European practitioners promoted mud baths as a treatment for arthritis. This back to the basics, relatively simplest of alternative therapies, tends to help relax muscles, soothe aches, improve blood circulation and smoothen the skin. With today's emerging trends mud baths are often recommended to help reduce stress and leave us feel rejuvenated at the end of the session.
...
Taking a hot bath or sauna promotes sweating that flushes the toxins away from the body. Mud baths draw out the toxins and impurities from the body, exfoliating and nourishing the skin'.

Despite this

'Deep relaxation is the primary and most-proven reason to take a hot mineral mud bath. The warm, soft mixture cocoons and buoys up the body and sucks the stress out. There’s no pressure anywhere on the body. The heat of the mud (usually over 100 degrees Fahrenheit) makes you perspire and cleans the pores. The treatment consists of 10-15 minutes of immersion, which improves the complexion, removes toxins, and soothes and relieves joint and muscle pain' (source).

Ooh, that sounds great.

'Analysis of Mud'

From Hell's gate, Wai-ora, Rotorua, New Zealand. Source

Another good source of info is the about.com page on (mud) spa's in Calistoga, California, U.S.A.. Historically it mentions that Cleopatra was one of the first users of (in her case) Dead Sea mud which appears to be the most widely used mud in mud treatments in the global spa industry.
The combination hot springs and volcanic ash seem to be the key. So no wonder that other popular muds are from New Zealand, Ischia and Hungary. Other well known muds (not necessarily of volcanic origin) seeing global use are Multani Mitti (India), Moor Mud (Central Europe; high organic content) and Great Salt Lake mud.

Another trend setter was Queen Sheba (source). Soaking in Southeast Asia notes that links seem to favour queens ... No, not. When retreating from Bulgaria, Hitler has been said to have asked for three train wagons full of local mud (source)!

Bhutan believes that the use of mud can heal war wounds (source) though it doesn't mention whether this concerned physical or psychological wounds ...

Even throughout the animal kingdom, mud baths are known for their propensity to cool down, provide positive skin healing and a source of additional minerals.

Some notes:
- A mud wrap distinguishes from a mud bath as it is essentially a layer of mud brought on the skin, left to dry and then rinsed off, in general less relaxing.
- Clay vs mud. Medindia:

'Clay like mud comes from the earth. However, due to its composition nature it has a tendency to soak up or dry, hence it is used in cosmetic products as a drying agent. It is a component found in many cosmetic products like foundation and powders. Clay has the ability to remove matter suspended in liquid, as its natural property is oil balancing. Thus, clay helps to assist the body in the systemic removal of many industrial chemicals that the body would otherwise have difficulty eliminating'.

But a clay bath?
- Sand baths are quite different, though very easy to produce on a beach. Beppu, Japan has geothermal warmed sand baths.
- Clothing? Any family laundry person would effortlessly point out that mud and clothes are not an ideal combination. Clothing seems to get in the way. For instance, a month after I visited Thap Ba there was still dirt stuck on me after a swim. However other than in festivals (see chapter below on anti-society) clothing seems to be an important part of the more social forms of mud bathing. Naturally further off the paved road, less so. But with a few exceptions (see below: Krinides, Hoyo) the major mud baths of the world are not clothing optional.
No clothing in mud is offensive? In NZ they think not ...
- Mud-wrestling. looks like fun, but why are only women involved? Soaking in Southeast Asia thinks it's not for vanity sakes ...But what should be stressed is the fun part, relax part and possible social part (We tend to forget socializing in our modern day spa's, it's all me, me, me).

• Mud is anti-society

Is it? Society seems to prefer clean and proper. Even as kids we know the best way to upset parents is to get dirty. So why not muddy?

Extending this theory, it's easy to see why (pop)festivals go out of their way to feature mud. Even the first festival of festivals (Woodstock) saw revelers seek to unconsciously shock older generations with a mud bath.
Besides underlining their supposed street credibility, at the end of the day a mud bath is just plain fun. Do note that clothing was / is optional and often dispensed of, in favour of practicality while simultaneously increasing the 'shock' value (at least initially, now not so much more in current days ...).

Just a few of the global examples are Woodstock '94 (U.S.A.), Paleo-Nyon (France, the only festival which has institutionalized the mud bath), ConFest (Australia), Big Green Gathering (Australia), Glastonbury (U.K.), Future Music (Australia), Burning Man, (U.S.A.), Down to Earth, (Australia), Rainforest Festival (Malaysia), Confest (Australia), Boryeong (Korea), Bloco de Lama (Brazil) and Sziget (Hungary). Just to name a few.

The Burning Man festival plays out on a dry lake bed deep in Nevada, U.S.A.. Despite the hot spring (muds) of Trego nearby, revelers take the opportunity to enjoy a mud bath during the festival itself. Photo by Gorightly:

'mud_people The attack of the naked mud people, Burning Man, 1997 or 98'.

Note:

Not under anti-society but with the summing up of festivals, in India the festival of Babba Jitto (Jhiri, Jammu) pays tribute to the liberator of the farming community. Besides a holy bath devotees also cover themselves with 'holy' mud (source).

• Mud is different

Seems logical.

• Mud is cheap.

Mud is everywhere, so a mud bath can be had virtually everywhere as long as it doesn't freeze. That said, there is a tendency for mud baths to take place in the summer or in warmer climes.
In reality there are not many naturally occurring hot mud baths. Nearly everywhere where there is hot mud, there's hot water and thus the latter is more desirable for consummation ...

That's not to say that taking a mud bath in a spa is cheap. Glen Ivy in California charges $85 while in the same state in Calistoga spa's charge about $65. Prices in Europe are no less cheaper ...

Muck around the world
Following is just a short overview of natural mud baths (excl. those spontaneous ones occurring after a rain shower) as well as whether or not these are thermal mud baths (gt: geothermal). Oddly many mud baths are also located on or near a beach.

A Calistoga mud bath. By Simon Edward

America's

• U.S.A.: Trego (gt); Calistoga (see above); Hawaii (gt); Ojo Caliente (gt?); Santa Fe (gt); Soap Lake;
• Mexico: Rio Lagartos; Huatulco; Los Azufres (gt);
• Belize: Maruba;
• Honduras:Cayos Cochinos, (gt?);
• El Salvador: Juayua (gt);
• Costa Rica: Miravalles (gt); Tenorio (gt); San Juanillo;
• St Kitts (gt);
• St Lucia (gt);
• St Martin: Tintamarre, see also Nat. Geo. blog;
• Colombia: Volcan del Totumo (gt), see this great write up by Nat. Geo.; Arbolete;
• Chile: Termas de Trancura (gt); Termas de Polloquere (gt);
• Ecuador: Machalilla (gt); Telesforo Villacres (gt); San Vincente (gt);
• Peru: Chilca; Zorritos (gt); Mancora (gt) Chivay (gt);
• Venezuela: Las Trincheras (gt); Isla Cubagua;
• Brazil: Paraty; Morro de Sao Paulo;
• Argentina: Termas de Cacheuta (gt); Copahue (gt).

'Volcan del Totumo'.

A real mud volcano with a mud bath inside. Colombia. By davidcovo

Europe

• Iceland: Blue Lagoon (gt); Hveragerði (gt);
• Belgium: Spa;
• Czech Republic: Cesky Krumlov; Mariánské Lázně; Františkovy Lázně; Kostelec;
• Hungary: Postyen (gt);
• Croatia: Pirovac; Čižići (Meline); Nin Laguna; Lokunja; Privlaka; Barotul; Trpanj;
• Romania: Bazna; Eforie; Slanic-Prahova; Ocna Sibiulu;
• Serbia: Ovcanska;
• Bulgaria: Sarafovo; Banya (gt), Tuzlata (gt);
• Greece: Santorini (gt); Arilas, Corfu; Krinides;
• Italy: Ischia (gt), Emilia Romagna Bagno di Romagna, Tivoli and Viterbo (source's); San Filippo; Laghetto di Fanghi Vulcano, (gt); Pantelleria's Bath of Venus (gt);
• Spain: Espalmador (Formentera); La Manga del Mar Menor: Lo Pagan; Tarifa; Bingaus and Cala Pinar (Menorca);
• Estonia: Parnu;
• Latvia: Baldone;
• Russia: Crimea - Saki; Sochi - Tizdar; north - Tinaki; Taman peninsular (gt);
• Ukraine: Berdyansk; Chokrok;
• Turkey: Dalyan (possibly gt); Gölemezli (gt); Gökçeada (with sea salt) Gönen (gt), Dikili (gt), Ilicaburun (gt), Camur (gt).

Vulcano island mud bath, Italy. By daturi

Africa

• Mozambique: Pemba;
• South Africa: Gingindlovu;
• Cape Verde: Pedra de Lume;
• Kenya: Sleepy Creek.

Oceania

• New Zealand: Rotorua (gt); Waiariki (gt);
• Australia: Eulo;
• Fiji: Sabeto (gt);
• Vanuatu: Nasinu (gt).

Asia

• Japan: Hoyo (gt); Nabeyama (gt); Niseko (gt);
• China: Tanggangzi (gt); Yangshuo (in cave); Tianjin; Nanjing (Tangshan);
• Taiwan: Kuanzuling; Chiayi (gt)
• Mongolia: Khujirt;
• Russia: Kamchatka: Talovski and Paratunka (gt); Baikal: Zhemchug (gt); Arshan; Tus Salt Lake;
• India: Goa.

Hoyoland mud onsen, Beppu, Japan; blogged by lorraineorsunshine

Muddying in Southeast Asia

So if worldwide available, they most certainly exist in Southeast Asia? Yes, they do.

Though hot springs have a certain following / touristic value, mud baths are yet to catch up in possibilities despite all what can be said in their favour.

As said Thap Ba (in Vietnam) is by far the most popular in Southeast Asia (even though the mud is resourced from elsewhere, the suggestion that there is both a hot spring and hot mud endures) and others spas and hot springs in the same country are catching up, for instance Binh Chau.

Outside of Vietnam there is the Phu Klon of Mae Hon Song province, Thailand which combines hot water and naturally occurring mud. Marketing wise they are mainly focused on the 'spa' crowd (as opposed to those who want to experience / have fun). At the lower end is the ad-hoc mud bath near one of Pai's hot springs.

The same focus on higher end tourists applies to the mud baths of Pinatubo, Philippines.

Then there are the mud 'volcanoes' on Malaysia's Pulau Tiga, an off-shore island off the state of Sabah; the islands high point for tourists is the experience of a mud bath.

Another hot item on the tourism trail. Malaysia's Tiga island mud volcanoes. By cephiroth.chin:

'Pulau_Tiga_27
Here you are: Transformed into Mud Man! Actually its adviseble not to jump inside the mud area, to avoid mud go into your eyes & mouth~~~'

Sarawak hosts Kampung Meritam's mud volcanoes (source). Here's an experience by Wilson Chin. 

More off the track is Bali's Singsing waterfall which should include a mud bath. Not when I was there.

More popular is the mud bath of Vang Viang (Lao) which probably is just a wallow of mud watered from the nearby Nam Song river; with the large amount of near drunk visitors and the lack of drainage there's probably a health issue here, but nevertheless popular. It's more for the rite of passage than any health aspect.

Are there any more mud baths in Southeast Asia?

Muddying the business
Sensing both the increasing popularity and the untapped resources of mud bathing in Southeast Asia, one would expect this to be a growing trend both to expand the offers as well as appealing to a younger generation.
Soaking in hot springs in Southeast Asia as well as worldwide is mostly associated with the elderly and as this blog entry witnesses, the young are often as eager, if not more so, to indulge a soak if dirty (and weird) business is included.

One aspect that might deter the popularization of mud baths, is that muddy baths require possibly even higher standards of hygiene, a fact which could give the whole sector (especially here in Southeast Asia) an impulse to improve standards (but a not much loved move away from naturally, the way Soaking in Southeast Asia approves of ...).

Certainly in Vietnam, I have seen some companies willing to get in on the business. Especially around Nha Trang, despite the proximity of Thap Ba, many high-end hotels are offering their 'own' mud treatments. Naturally they will be followers and though to a certain limit stand to profit from Thap Ba's popularity. On the other hand they'll miss most of the free publicity, why on earth would visitors sign up for an expensive clinically mud treatment when the real thing is just around the corner? Snobbery?

But think about it, Vietnam for instance has quite a few hot springs but usually they are at least 2-3 hours away from each other, so most probably no competition from each other. Another factor favouring the development is mud's cheapness.

Even more exciting is the recent event of new 'mud volcanoes' coming to life. Though Azerbaijan is struggling with it's mud volcano, in Ninh Thuan, Vietnam new mud volcanoes have occurred. Who know's, this might be a destination of the future. Do note that a mud volcano does not always offer an opportunity for a mud bath ...

That's not saying that all mud is good. Probably the worst example of mud gone bad is here in Southeast Asia where in Indonesia, the Lapindo mud lake stands for poor planning, poor regulation and implicit government involvement in avoiding offering adequate compensation to those affected.

Epilogue
So quite an exciting business, might just warrant a blog of it's own ...

On a totally different aspect, I came across an article in the Sueddeutscher.de about Munchen's last mud bath. In the article it mentions how in 2009 the last public multiperson mud bath of 2 by 4 m of Munchen was to close.
Decreasing numbers of visitors:

'"Wellness muss eher sauber und steril aussehen" - und nicht braun und schlammig'.

Which translates as wellness should be clean and sterile - not brown and muddy. Really. Soaking in Southeast Asia begs to differ.
And increasing costs: Two truckloads of mud were required each week costing 400 Euro each. Not so dirt cheap!

So is the exception to the rule?

[Note: special extensive mud feature on European Natural Soaking Society (Jan 2013)]

Dare to compare

Comparing 

Soaking in Southeast Asia and it’s sister / daughter sites focus mainly on countries within Asia where enjoying hot springs are less well-known practices and/or totally waiting to be discovered. In many cases these hot springs are under-developed or poorly developed.

Intending to seek out why in for instance Europe, soaking (and bathing) is very much a part of life, I was in the circumstance to visit a town known for it’s mineral waters while on business in Germany’s Harz region over the past summer. 

Bathing History 

Bad Lauterberg lies on the edge of the Harz, hemmed in by hills to the north, which shield the town from cooler winds. On the confluence of 3 streams, Lauterberg was known until the 19th century for mining, as was the whole of the Harz region. Wikipedia has a good entry on mining in the Harz. It was then discovered that water emanating from lower layers of the mountains also contained high concentrations of minerals which can be attributed to an improved health level if frequently bathed in. Such was the interest that gradually the Lauterberg economy shifted from relying on mining (and metal manufacturing) to relying on bathing and it’s associated culture to survive; it became one of Germany's oldest spa-towns (source). A few (up-scale) bathing places were created as well as the town undergoing development so as to make the bathers more happy, for instance the construction of promenades and parks. 

Bad 

Since the demise of mining, Lautenberg has been named Bad Lautenberg as in Germany much is gained by the term Bad. It is a government approved qualitative acknowledgment of being a place to bathe which can lead to an improved health status; a main reason why Germans are interested in ‘baden / kuren’ (and soaking). In the case of Bad Lautenberg, the bathing waters are natural, though unheated. In Germany there is little difference between the two, as unheated waters are heated for bathing and both forms (heated and unheated) can be regarded as having significant health properties. This is scientifically backed up. More famous bathing places such as Baden-Baden, Wiesbaden and Aachen do have natural hot waters. But not Bad Lautenberg. 

Soaking in Bad 

Bad Lautenberg possesses three locations for bathing. The choice falls on the Kirchberg Therme as it combines swimming pools with sauna without aiming at families, with the complete water circus of wave pools, slides, chutes and what have you. After all silence is golden ... 

Connected to the Kirchberg Medical Centre, the therme (or spa) is part of the overall facilities used by ‘patients’ and/or guests. The therme consists of a restaurant, a fitness centre, two indoor swimming basins and a sauna complex. Visiting on an early morning, most bathers were guests from the medical centre; use of the therme was free for these guests before 2 in the afternoon. The 2 modern free-form swimming basins were little used this morning (why?) and the cooler of the 2 pools surely could not be described as an attraction to me (too cold!). Much better was the clothesfree sauna complex which contained a variety of sauna’s, a steam room and an outside swimming pool with extensive sunning lawn. Somehow the larger swimming area required bathing clothes, possibly because the benefits of soaking should not be withheld from the less inhibited. However as said, the pools were mostly deserted whereas the sauna area was considerably populated by 20 or more patrons on that particular morning. Clearly most thought more highly of sauna use than of the possible advantages of the pool use; or couldn’t be bothered dressing up to use the pools.

A photo from the spa's own web site. In front the two pools while behind the rocks is the sauna garden ...

Your notes

Comparing to any experience in Southeast Asia is hardly possible. First of all there is Germany's love affair with hot springs, which dates back to at least the era of Roman occupation (Cooper-Erfurt & Cooper, 2009) Since, soaking modes in Germany have waxed and waned, but to Germans soaking or 'kuren' is a scientifically proven method of medicine. How important is this?

• For instance the bible of Germany's spa's, Größchen's

  'Heilbäder und Kurorte in Deutschland. Conradi-Bäderkunde-Lexikon'

  counts more than 600 pages!
• In 2006 nearly 6.5 million soakers were recorded (Erfurt-Cooper & Cooper, 2010); visits lasting multiple days .

One must also note that when taking a longer wellness treatment German health insurance will covers this. No wonder soaking is so important ... See also the following:

'Today, Germany has one of the most comprehensive spa cultures in Europe, with the support of the German federal health care system to boot! The German equivalent for spa is Heilbad or 'healing bath' or Kurort which literally mean 'cure place'. Any town in Germany can qualify and choose to use the prefix 'Bad' or bath before their town name i.e. Bad Soden. Those towns that qualify have met the strictest air and water quality standards and have been able to establish the necessary medical staff and infrastructure to cater to those seeking treatment. ... Once a Kur or cure therapy has been approved, a patient will be sent to a certified Kurort or spa where a patient will enjoy a holistic experience of exercise, nutrition, relaxation, communication and motivation custom-fitted by doctors and medical staff. The focus is to provide a Kur guest with the best possible natural environment to cure or prevent the further development of illnesses'.

Then there is the level of facilities to draw in the comparison. Concerning the emphasis on medical efficiency in Germany and German cultural pursuit of high standards, levels of hygiene are extremely high and are first most in thoughts of managers. Competition between facilities means that increasingly higher lay-outs are required and for the visitor this means the facilities are more and more luxurious and at the same time larger and more diverse. But other than these two aspects (medical culture / standards ) I believe there is little that would differ between soaking here in Southeast Asia and in Germany. In general soaks in both are mostly visited by locals, most patrons are slightly older and / or health conscious. Having such facilities in Southeast Asia could be possible, though the price differential would exclude most locals. So an in-between situation could be created. For instance hygiene is greatly lacking at 99.9% of Southeast Asia's soaking sites, but simple measures need not cost too much but can result in far better hygienic situation. My own preference? Well that would be a bit unfair. making a choice. The soaking culture in Southeast Asia is mostly non-existent and / or real foreign to myself whereas the experience above isn't ...

Rant

Friday nite I was watching the film Julie & Julia with Meryl Streep as lead actress. The plot revolves around a modern day blogger who manages to change her life by creating a blog on the re-creation of Julia Child’s 1960’s cook book, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Besides entertaining, it also got me thinking.

Apart from cooking and baking, my passions in life (other than family) are football (playing, coaching, watching and reporting), cycling, swimming and … enjoying the outdoors. Alas the former is not so easy to pursue here in Cambodia. Yeah, there are great outdoors here, but somehow I have motivation problems. Could it be that temperature and the hassles of city life are simply demanding too much energy? That added to the fact that the outdoors (jungle) in Cambodia is pretty much inaccessible.

When I started this blog, it was an act of unselfishness; centralized (and extensive) info on the web concerning hot springs in all Southeast Asian countries is not available. It also gave me a goal while enjoying the (more accessible) outdoors.

I’ve since visited quite a few hot spring sites mainly during (short) holidays. Though I do try to avoid dragging my family around, from one soak site to the next. From my childhood, I remember the image of my ‘holiday in hell’: a distant relative of mine used to visit a couple of churches on a daily basis in Europe solely to admire the organs with little regard for the other family members wishes. How can that be healthy? So I always try to vary the holidays and minimize the drive to add more soaks to the blog list.

This need for variation has lead me to seek out waterfalls (as a more pleasurable (?) pursuit); often a fresh dip beats a soak in these countries. And especially in Thailand waterfalls are still very natural with the forests around them well protected.

Any road, my hot spring holy grail would be an untouched and natural spring, deep in the jungle, uncrowded, with locals enjoying and socializing with each other and welcoming to the outsider.

Unfortunately it doesn’t seem that this type exists anywhere in Southeast Asia, therefore I have expanded my web-search to include the Himalaya’s as well as describing the joys of water-holes. Up in the mountains there certainly must be great soaks. From living in Nepal in the nineties I have been to a few hot springs. And again, at the same time I’m centralizing information and assisting fellow (potential) soakers. And other outdoor enthusiasts.

Despite the success in part of the objective (95% of the visitors arrive at this web site from search sites), I am still not so satisfied. The unselfishness of the above stated objectives is not the reality. The blogging is a means of driving me to explore new places, to expand my imagination and make myself worthwhile to society. Or so I at least hope. And like the blogger in the film above, it might just make me rich (though I have no delusions on this). I suspect a regular job would be of more assistance …

Ultimately in this search for hot springs in the real world, what I have missed is the fun part. Having visited so many natural hot springs in various Southeast Asian countries they all seem to alternate as local attraction parks, rather than sites which cater to soakies; be it for recreation or for health purposes. Poor management is synonymous with these sites, resulting in some places having such poor water quality that the “hot spring = healthy” phrase seems to have been reversed. In all honesty most hot springs (with a few exceptions) are trashed. Oddly it doesn’t matter if it is Bali or Bokeo, Sumatra or Sankhampaeng. Same, same.

The best I can hope for is that through this blog, increased awareness of uniqueness of hot springs (and waterfalls) and their natural surroundings will lead to better soaking and cleaner facilities. In some cases tasteful, but not over the top. Enhanced natural surroundings, though preferably undisturbed. Until then, I’ll continue the quest in person and on the internet, a relentless search for the ultimate Shangrila La. Who knows? As with Julie in the film it might just change my life. Or inspire others ….

An artificial picture of an artificial geyser. Fang Thailand. Caption:

'Painting in acrylics by NAPAT YOTHONGYOS'.

Updates for November 2009

Adding to the family of blogs is Hot Soaks of the Himalaya, a long (term?) journey up the valleys and across the vast plains of Himalaya. Just one entry so far, on Bhutan entitled 'Of Tsachu's', a tsachu being a hot spring.

Furthermore two visits have been paid to hot springs in Southern Thailand, postings to follow.

When one looks at the analysis of referrers one sometimes finds that Soaking in Southeast Asia pops up in the strangest places. A Google web search for 'Indonesia Banjar hot springs bikini photos' puts this site in the second place. But why on earth would someone being using those search terms?

News/Features
Asiaspa (Nov./Dec. 2009) goes green for it's latest issue. That's besides features on both Hanoi as well as Lao. Funny that focusing on the green thing but not mentioning green or 'natural' water. Though they do emphasize cleanliness of a spa, something you seldom see in the natural soaks of Southeast Asia.
In How to travel Green:

'Modest dress is important for many cultures and this is something many western travellers do not follow'.

Sounds a lot like the blame the west attitude. Funny though when you leaf through the Mag you'll discover that advertisements for resorts in Southeast Asia focus more on non-modest (10) vs. modest (8; assuming bikini is modest). In pictures with articles the count is even 10 vs 4. So much for being modest, but possibly aforementioned being modest meant outside of the spa?
Furthermore a good article by Laura Miller on a visit to Beitou, Taiwan. Very forthright:

'There is something quite delicious about being naked outdoors. And although I'll admit to a slight exhibitionist streak, I'd challenge anyone not enjoy reclining nude in a marble pool of steamy healing water with trees and discrete screens ensuing total privacy from the opposite sex [so not exhibitionist?]. While skinny dipping is illicitly thrilling, hot spring nudity is actually recommended and deeply relaxing - especially under a blue sky or starry night'.

That said, her name does sound western ....

From further away in Asia:

• The arrival of the Beaujolais Noveau 2009 is a reason for Japanese soakers to indulge:

  'The Hakone Kowakien Yunessun spa resort celebrated the annual uncorking of the seasonal drop by having a sommelier pour a few bottles into an open-air hot spring bath as holiday-makers enjoyed soaking themselves. It was the fourth annual bath using the produce of the French winery Laboure Roi at the spa, which also offers baths with green tea, coffee and sake'.

  What exactly are the benefits of soaking in wine tainted mineral water?

• Then there's a hot spring's music festival in Japan. The concerts actually take place in the bathhouse.

• And then a manga introduces the 'hot spring goddess' as reported by A NEET Life. Unfortunately Mr. NEET Life was expecting a naked Goddess because that's the way you soak in Japan.

  'As you can see, right up my alley. My expectations of a series where the main character (who happens to be a cute girl with divine powers, for better or worse) never wears any clothes turned out to be a little high, unfortunately, but that's (also unfortunately) to be expected. But I'm totally down with the red letter philosophy above. Think about it. A nature god(dess) living at a hot spring. Where do clothes even fit into that? Oh, but of course, for the sake of modesty, we must go out of the way to clothe the naked. Even (or especially?) the divinely naked.
  ...
  And worst of all, it offends my sense of spirituality. A God loses her majesty if she runs around naked? [quoting the manga] All I have to say about that is - she's a God, and this is a hot spring, so what's wrong with being naked!? Far as I'm concerned, a God gains majesty by running around naked. Partaking in nudity is spiritually fulfilling, not morally degenerate.'

• A newish site, Hot Springs in Beijing, highlighting mostly China's capitals ability to soak.

• China is also experiencing 'a wave of hot spring festivals' this autumn.

From blogs:
Thailand

• A year old write up in the Nation on Bo Klueng, Ratchaburi:

  'Bo Klueng is a prime example of a poorly managed private tourist spot. The property owner has built a restaurant right next the hot spring to allow diners to watch those frolicking in the man-made pond into which the hot spring flows. Naturally, the focus is more on selling food and drink than maintaining the site, and the Bt5 admission fee is augmented by a Bt30 charge (Bt10 for children) for a dip in the pond. The water, which looks none too clean, is usually packed with children. And about 100 metres away, a sign is details the quality, which at pH8.02, seems more alkaline that it should be and not that hot at 56 degrees Celsius'.

  I, for my part, admit that it's far from fantastic but did notice that they clean the pond and that it is still one of Thailand's best hot spring sites. Goes to show how good Thailand's soaks are. Possibly might visit there again next month.

• Another forum entry chips in on the above discussion so it seems:

  'It certainly isn't the hot springs [of Pai, which attract tourists]. Until recently it was 300 baht for Farangs [foreigners] to go in and as a result the place was deserted. I think it is 100 baht now and still very quiet'.

Red Rider in Pai.

Vietnam

• Tours to Binh Chau hot springs are back on offer. But only for the elderly ...

Indonesia

• Are there new hot spring pools in Kintamani, Bali? Bertrandom has the photo's (see below). But what is the place called?

Malaysia

• A previous unrecorded hot spring in Perak: Pengkalan Hulu. Motormouth from Ipoh has an extensive blog entry on this hot spring. A place to visit? Kavetha adds:

  'The hot springs at air panas used to really nice until they decided to built that dirty canal and ugly chalets. There were 2 extremely hot pools which had railings around them, one big pool of warm water for swimming and a few more other little pools….. and for anyone who wanted a cold dip, they could just go to the river flowing nearby'.

  Author's reply:

  'Chalets aside, they’re all orange-y now. But that canal looks too murky lah …. We did not touch the waters'.
  

Spa-ing and Soaking: Same-Same but Different?

One could state that soaking is an increasingly popular past time, not only here in Southeast Asia, but worldwide. But to be able to state this, one would need to know how many soaks there are and the number of visitors, i.e. back it up with some data. Which are not available.
But leaf through any travel related print and, sure, there will be an increasing amount of articles and more advertising on ... spa's. But is going to the spa, the same as taking a soak?

Soaks and soaks of sorts
Soaks, as I understand them, are soaks in natural waters. They become soaks as the waters are usually warm or hot. Looking for where these natural waters occur in the heated substance, one is looking for hot springs. So soaks are in their majority hot springs.
I say in majority, as here in Southeast Asia, we experience a prolonged period of hot weather. So hot, that shallow bodies of water warm up and could be considered as soaks. As could be the sea, which surprisingly sometimes fails to cool the swimmer.
During the heat, cooling down is often a better option and it's no secret that I enjoy waterfalls as much as or just as much as hot springs. One factor in their favour, is that there are many more waterfalls. Possibly because of their numbers, unnatural enhancements are less obvious to come across upon. And here in Southeast Asia if there's no road, no car park, no amount of food stalls, it can't be worth it ... But for me (and my family) that's just the attraction. What better way to unwind, cooling off naturally, in a natural environment, 'au naturel'?

April this year, Yak Loam Lake Ratanakiri province, Cambodia: the 'coolest' soak.

Define spa!
But I'm digressing. So are spa's not the same as soaks? The word spa, you'd be surprised to know, is actually a shorter version of the Russian word 'spasibo'. Which was the word Peter the Great used in 1717 when offered water, as he was sojourning nearby the town now known as Spa located in the Wallonian Ardennes.

Why they changed the name of the town remains a mystery, considering it had been used as a soaking site from the 14th century onwards. Anyway, such was the significance of this happening, that today the global relaxation industry is greatly dominated by the word. Though the word spa is largely eponymous with any place having a natural water source that is believed to possess special health-giving properties, in practice spa seems to have more in common with other wider themes such as health tourism or wellness rather than soaking itself. Massages, wraps, facials are all standard ingredients one can expect at a spa. What's more they have little or no relation to the existence of natural springs, be they warm or cold. And their health claims seem mostly unfounded. Spa's are nearly all located in or near urban areas where they can provide a 'retreat' from the outside world and/or on beaches where tourists may well be tempted off the beach to a, as naturally possible, property to indulge.

Exclusive
What all spa's have in common though is an emphasis on a different distinctness with a hope for attracting the well-heeled. The more exclusive the better. Especially here in Southeast Asia, spa's aim for the upper class. AsiaSpa puts it like this:

'Targeted at wealthy professional women aged between 30 and 50, AsiaSpa invites its readers to step outside their everyday urban environment and escape to a tranquil world where body and mind are refreshed'.

Though I might have a weakness for the mag, for instance it includes issues such as this month (May 2009) a special: 'The Family Issue'. With articles such as 'how to... be a super parent' and 'yoga for fertility'! However it's commercial emphasis and pretension to highlight the distinct rather than the true natural , certainly doesn't endear itself.

This penchant for exclusiveness is in contrast to say northern Europe where thermal bathing is open to all. But class associations are made between town's. i.e. Harrington for the lower class, Royal Spa Leamington for the upper class. This is also evident in other European nations. Places such as Evian or Baden-Baden are known as places where the upper class hang out, so to say.
In Holland (and Germany) though, spa's as such are scarce and sauna's are there to give what is essentially is a spa experience, though with the emphasis on taking a sauna, with the possibility of other upgrades (wraps, massages) or extensions (sunbed). Significantly these are less distinctive for upper / lower class. And they emphasize social contact.
One could compare this culture very much akin to that of onsen and sento in Japan. Though a soak may be great, a soak with great (new) friends is even better.

This all seems quite in contrast to spa's, where relaxation is the mantra such that tranquility becomes all enveloping (see above quote). And to muffle away the odd a-natural sound here and there, they offer background sounds, a fast flowing stream, gentle waves, rustling leaves, etc.. Believing that socializing is again against human nature, rooms are parted and separated.
The most exclusive massage I had here in Phnom Penh was a joint massage, the joint being a door between the massage rooms which was opened, rather than a room where at least both of us would lie. Possibly by de-socializing the experience it becomes more exclusive: "Oh ,I had a plunge pool all to myself". And how long did it take to get bored?

So ..., not the same?
No, I believe. A spa for me, is there for the convenience of a cheap massage. In contrast seeking a soak is an undertaking, getting out, an expedition, a voyage of discovery, a search for the holy grail and a possible reward at the end. But, all -in-all a lot of fun and interest.

I mean, in Southeast Asia what makes some of the most exclusive spa's differ from each other?
Take Tamarind Springs on Thailand's isle of Samui. It goes all out to tempt the tourist off the beach and it certainly looks great.

Hmm, would you pay to experience this? Nature is a plenty in Thailand.

'Tamarind Springs Forest Spa, Samui is inspired by its superb location – its lush coconut groves gently sloping into a valley of huge granite boulders bordering the island’s jungly interior. Built out of love and respect for this unique landscape, every effort was made to fluidly integrate this Samui spa into the existing indigenous surroundings.
...

The magical forest surroundings will help you to completely unwind.
The Forest. At The Forest guests enjoy drifting between the fragrant herbal steam cave and cold water rock pools, snacks and refreshments in the tea sala, before their massage treatments in open air pavilions.'

Is this much more different than a soak? Possibly, because the customer is king, hygiene is high, quality is good. But most Thai soaks offer a massage and the waters are more inclined to have therapeutic qualities. Then again at Tamarind Springs you do get disposable underwear!

Over at Losari (Central Java) it's more of the same (massage), though they have a hamam and not a steam room. It claims:

'An oasis for tranquility and renewal'

Maybe?

Anantara at the so-called Golden Triangle:

'Whether you choose an exotic fruit peel or a signature four-hand massage, Anantara's spa therapists will tailor every treatment to ensure your relaxation. From the moment you step into the spa's three-storey mountainside reception room, you'll feel infused with a sense of calm'.

Anantara Spa: Enticing? What happened to the view?

But again a number of massages to choose from, possibly an extensive choice, just to make it exclusive. But nothing more than a typical hot spring, other than exclusiveness with a price to fit.

Again they are different but also similar. Soaks, now those are different! They are naturally tranquil. No need to blend in some background muzak. Now let's hope the developers don't impose themselves and make spa's out of those great soaks!

Chiang Rai Hot Springs: the rest

Besides Pong Phra Bat and Huai Hin Fon, Chiang Rai province possesses a number of other active hot springs, making it together with Chiang Mai province one of the most geothermal active Thai provinces. But unfortunately there is little, incomplete or no information at all, on the springs not visited by myself the other month. Some with this summar, I hope to uncover more details, providing access on the other hot

Pha Soet Hot Spa (Prasert)
Location: near Huai Mak Liam Hot Springs which are located close to Lam Nam Kok National Park Headquarters. The nearest village is Ban Akha Pha Soet. The road is basically the road from Chiang Rai town, south of the Mae Kok river heading west, and at the turn-off to Akha Hill Guesthouse you are in Phasoet village.
This blogger provides two photo's on his site, it looks like a great place to soak!


Huai Mak Liam Hot Springs
It's one of the more well known, so probably more visited as well (by tourists at least), especially as it is easy to access from the Mae Kok Riverside.

From the Thai National Park Administration website, where the springs are a part of:

'20 kms far from the city of Chiang Rai. This hot spring is come from the nature heat beneath the world, which has hot water to bob up all time. When brought the eggs into this hot spring about 30 minutes, the flavor of the boiled egg will better and more delicious than normal boiled. This waterfall is appropriate for night visitor to put up the tent in the beautiful night'.

Joel John Barlow in his Chiang Rai guide:

'It's one of the more well known, so probably more visited as well, especially as it is easy to access from the Mae Kok Riverside'.

TourismChiangrai.com describes the hot spring such:

'It is a part of Lam Naam Khok National Park and located on the Khok riverside. The area is a nice and peaceful place for recreation. Its diameter is 5 meters and there is an outdoor hot spa. The average temperature of hot spa is 67 degree Celsius. The hot spa consists of Fluoride, Nitrate, Sulphate, and Iodine which is not harmful for people who take mineral bath. Moreover, elephant riding tour is also available'.

As with the Pha Soet Hot Spa, follow the road on the south side of Chiang Rai town toward the west. At the end you will have arrived at the hot springs.


Naerunchara Hot Springs Resort
Possibly, this is the resort formerly known as PK Hot Spa; by delving through the available information, it's unclear whether this is the case or not.

Joel John Barlow describes the location of PK Hot Spa as follows:

'on the Kok River off 1233 well past Mae Fah Luang Royal Garden. Nice riverside restaurant, B600 rooms'.

This puts it just outside of Chiang Rai town on the road to Lam Nam Kok National Park.

All great information, but try to book a room there. Not possible. Apparently it now is called Naerunchara Hot Spring Resort. 'Apparently', because there does not seem to be any connection between the two. The PK at least existed, but there is no web site, neither any clear photo's. Anyway if you want to stay at the Naerunchara, here is their site. You can also book through asiarooms.com.

Update (Jan '08): the Naerunchara is located close to the previously mentioned Pha Soet hot springs, diagonally across the stream and road. Probably have the same source.

Pong Fu Fueang (Pong Pu Feuang)
Also part of the Lam Nam Kok National Park, the National Park site provides us with the following sentence:

'About 1.8 kms from the crossroad of Mae Suai-Chiangrai Land highway. There are 2 hot spring wells in this place with about 75^oC'.

Though they refer to this as Pong Fu, the map refers to this site under the name Pong Pu, oddly enough the map locates them southwards from Chiang Rai, 18 kms on the Pa Sak - Mae Suai Road (highway 118).


Huai Sao Khao Hot Springs
More well known, Huai Sao Khao, is located on the east side at km 794 (highway 1), south of Chiang Rai.
The Chiang Mai - Chiang Rai.com guide mentions this hot spring as follows:

'The second sight of hot spring can be found at Ban Huay Zai Kao Hot Spring located on Mae Lao District, Chiangrai. This hot spring has been left in its natural state and is not attractive to visitors as a relaxation spot since there are no bathing facilities'.

Well, as there are absolutely no other references on internet to these hot springs, we'll have to take their word for it.


Wiang Pa Pao Hot Springs (T(h)ung T(h)e wi hot spa)
The aforementioned Chiang Mai- Chiang Rai.com site describes the following:

'The third is Wieng Pa Pao hot spring. This is located at a midway point between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai on highway 1019. Most people travelling by road stop at Wieng Pa Pao for a short break. Here are restaurants, a fresh produce and flower market and a bazaar selling items made by the hill tribes and lowland Thais. One popular activity at the hot spring is to hard boil eggs in the boiling water. The clever vendors have attached baskets on a long pole making the activity safe and fun for customers of all age to boil the eggs. If you can't encourage your children to cook at home, they will love to boil eggs here. Other than this the hot spring hasn't been develop for recreation use but plans are underway to develop this spring as a spa'.

Oddly enough again the map situates them elsewhere, just off highway 1150, two kms from highway 118.

Natural, but non-commercial?