An update ...

Quite significant news is that I have moved away from Southeast Asia, so sometime in the future, first hand reports will dry up .... In the meantime though, I still have a couple of reports upcoming, of a journey I made through the northern part of south Thailand. 

Think Green? Not Soak? 

This years earthquake and tsunami exposed Japan's over reliance on atomic energy.Within Japan this has lead to a more sustained push for geothermal energy. What makes Japan stand out from other countries is the ingrained appreciation of soaking. Any possible project in Japan which would affect soaking possibilities stands less of a chance of becoming a reality. The Mainichi Daily News (Sep. 3) reports on an onsen hotel (Kuju Kanko) with electricity generation. Unfortunately the price returned by the government prohibited the electricity generation from being profitable (great policy) but this hotel did get a much more positive image from generating it's own electricity, enabling the owner to hark back some of the losses. Monocolumn adds in another article the fear that the push for more geothermal energy will have adverse effects for soakers especially as the overall scope that geothermal energy will have a sufficient contribution to Jaspan's overall energy needs:

'.. many hoteliers and innkeepers are dead-set against having geothermal prospectors drilling in their backyards. They worry that a power plant nearby would harm the environment; worse, it might deplete the heat that keeps the local springs warm, they say'.

Kenji Hall, the reporter of this article, adds a positive example of how the two could exist, similar to the above experience and concludes:

'The technology will need more success stories like that to avoid being branded as the villain. Geothermal energy won’t likely to win the sympathy vote if the public has to choose between a niche technology and a leisure activity that has been around for centuries'.

With oil prices refusing to drop substantially, the lesser endowed geothermal countries in the region are revving up their investment plans. Both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai (Thailand) will be part of research and find for a 2-10 MW installation. Malaysia are thinking bigger, 36 MW (Phase 1).

'Speaking after negotiation meeting between the stakeholders for the Geothermal Power Plant project at Kg Tass Balai Raya here, Wednesday, he [Project Director Andrew Amaladoss from Tawau Green Energy Sdn Bhd] also assured the kampung people in the nearby area that the project has no threats to them.He said that among the advantages of using geothermal power was it is clean, required not a big area, cost saving and is not harmful to the people and environment'.

Added was that the geothermal project is not harmful to the people or the environment ... Actually the Think GeoEnergy website is a good source for geothermal energy news. From the past months there are reports on projects in Lampung (Indonesia), Lahendong (Indonesia) Sarulla (Indonesia), Naga (Philippines), the Philippines and West Sumatra. And more ... 

  

Crossing the divide, culturally 

Hot springs in China are becoming a target for Japanese hot spring companies. relax.com.sg reports that:

'According to a recent report by the UK's Financial Times, Gokurakuyu aims to open its first spa in China by March 2011 with its partners, an affiliate of China's Citic Group and Japanese investment company MBK. The company has also announced an aggressive expansion plan to run 100 variously-sized spa houses in China within five years, more than it operates in Japan'.

Coming from Japan, they are well aware of the different soaking culture in China, f.i. solely targeting businessmen rather than being a family outing (btw what about businesswomen?). Another example:

'In parts of China where people feel uncomfortable bathing communally, Gokurakuyu expects to include an area for customers who want to wear swimming costumes'.

Seeing how in the past, Chinese authorities have lambasted non-costume swimming as 'western decadence' it probably means that Japanese 'bathing' will not be the next big thing ... Meanwhile back on the theme of China and Japan, a recent internet report pointed to the fact that many Chinese wish to visit Japan to enjoy their hot springs as opposed to westerners ... Than what does Japan think about this? Weird culture (sideline):

'A NATURE park in China’s Hunan province is offering free admission and prizes to virgin females aged 22 or older, according to the state-run Global Times'.

Sex discrimination? Culture? A Japanese hot spring TV show has caused controversy as it employs 'an adult video model' to crank up the ratings.

'The “Let’s go to the spa and more!” broadcast by Japanese Fuji TV Station is actually an “adaption” of the old one “Go to the Spa!” which was first introduced to audiences of all ages in 2000, and mainly features the hidden hot springs (secret hot springs or secret tang) throughout Japan. In 2008, the show took a daring change by featuring the female host wearing only a towel and its name was changed to Let’s Go to the New Spa! The rating increased slightly after that. In the latest revamped programme, the host strips her clothing one by one before entering the hot springs naked'.

As soaking au naturel is a cornerstone of Japanese culture and many villages manage to attract significant numbers of tourists wishing to enjoy a soak dare we say naked, tv programs denying this seem a bit unreal. Anyway in reality it's all very tame ...However, already back in February Japansugoi reported on the increasing popularity of the show (DVD's also available). It notes:

'While nudity is not a big issue on Japanese TV, this onsen show by its very nature has the charms of the onsen demonstrated by way of a female reporter’s nude bathing'.

Just one of a series of photo's by Paula Bronstein. Text with the series:

'Japanese earthquake victims enjoy a communal bath set up in tents by the Japanese Self Defense Force March 26, 2011 in Rikuzentakata, Iwate, Japan. With hundreds of thousands made homeless by the quake the baths are essential since the makeshift evacuation centers have little running water'.

The regional news

Soaking festivals are the in-thing. The Philippine Information Agency reports (Sept. 9) from Los Baños:

'The Special Science and Nature City of the Philippines will celebrate Bañamos—a unique healing waters festival—beginning September 14 that will highlight the town’s colorful history capped by various fun-filled events. ... The Dia Aguas Santas (Day of the Holy Waters) is set on September 17 where a symbolic public bathing will be held in a hot spring pool blessed with holy water near the Immaculate Conception Parish Church'.

And ziplining and soaking? Head for Bamungao Pangasinan, Philippines:

'Zipline ride offers you a view of villages, extinct Mt. Balungao, and flowing hot and cold spring'.

Annah Rais hot spring, Sarawak (Malaysia) continues to gather favourable reviews. For instance Dawn Poh. And JG. That has been noted by local politicians who will now move their constituency up to the 'modern' world. Borneo Post report (September 5):

'Speaking of one famous spot, the Anah Rais hot spring, he [Deputy Tourism Minister Datuk Dr James Dawos Mamit] proposed that a study on the carrying capacity of the spring be conducted to improve the facilities there'.

Oh no, study the carrying capacity! Pai, Mae Hong Son (Thailand) keeps on moving up. And so does it's hot springs. New kid on the block: Pai HotSpring Spa Resort (lot of effort in finding a name). Though probably just a rename (from Thapaispa) their own guest review page gives a positive shine on the rename. However continue on tripadvisor and you will be shocked by for instance this entrance from August 2010:

'This hotel is filthy and just rely on the hotspring appeal to rip travelers off'.

I wasn't impressed either but that was 5 years ago ... A Russian language, extensive site on Siam's soaks. Wrapping up, more cross cultural exchange. The US is doing it's part ... to help China's science get a grip of it's hot springs. Montana State University is leading a research project in Tengchong, Yunnan. Part of the surprise is that in Tengchong visitors boil eggs in the springs, which in Montana would be an offense and get you a nice fine ...

Dare to compare

Comparing 

Soaking in Southeast Asia and it’s sister / daughter sites focus mainly on countries within Asia where enjoying hot springs are less well-known practices and/or totally waiting to be discovered. In many cases these hot springs are under-developed or poorly developed.

Intending to seek out why in for instance Europe, soaking (and bathing) is very much a part of life, I was in the circumstance to visit a town known for it’s mineral waters while on business in Germany’s Harz region over the past summer. 

Bathing History 

Bad Lauterberg lies on the edge of the Harz, hemmed in by hills to the north, which shield the town from cooler winds. On the confluence of 3 streams, Lauterberg was known until the 19th century for mining, as was the whole of the Harz region. Wikipedia has a good entry on mining in the Harz. It was then discovered that water emanating from lower layers of the mountains also contained high concentrations of minerals which can be attributed to an improved health level if frequently bathed in. Such was the interest that gradually the Lauterberg economy shifted from relying on mining (and metal manufacturing) to relying on bathing and it’s associated culture to survive; it became one of Germany's oldest spa-towns (source). A few (up-scale) bathing places were created as well as the town undergoing development so as to make the bathers more happy, for instance the construction of promenades and parks. 

Bad 

Since the demise of mining, Lautenberg has been named Bad Lautenberg as in Germany much is gained by the term Bad. It is a government approved qualitative acknowledgment of being a place to bathe which can lead to an improved health status; a main reason why Germans are interested in ‘baden / kuren’ (and soaking). In the case of Bad Lautenberg, the bathing waters are natural, though unheated. In Germany there is little difference between the two, as unheated waters are heated for bathing and both forms (heated and unheated) can be regarded as having significant health properties. This is scientifically backed up. More famous bathing places such as Baden-Baden, Wiesbaden and Aachen do have natural hot waters. But not Bad Lautenberg. 

Soaking in Bad 

Bad Lautenberg possesses three locations for bathing. The choice falls on the Kirchberg Therme as it combines swimming pools with sauna without aiming at families, with the complete water circus of wave pools, slides, chutes and what have you. After all silence is golden ... 

Connected to the Kirchberg Medical Centre, the therme (or spa) is part of the overall facilities used by ‘patients’ and/or guests. The therme consists of a restaurant, a fitness centre, two indoor swimming basins and a sauna complex. Visiting on an early morning, most bathers were guests from the medical centre; use of the therme was free for these guests before 2 in the afternoon. The 2 modern free-form swimming basins were little used this morning (why?) and the cooler of the 2 pools surely could not be described as an attraction to me (too cold!). Much better was the clothesfree sauna complex which contained a variety of sauna’s, a steam room and an outside swimming pool with extensive sunning lawn. Somehow the larger swimming area required bathing clothes, possibly because the benefits of soaking should not be withheld from the less inhibited. However as said, the pools were mostly deserted whereas the sauna area was considerably populated by 20 or more patrons on that particular morning. Clearly most thought more highly of sauna use than of the possible advantages of the pool use; or couldn’t be bothered dressing up to use the pools.

A photo from the spa's own web site. In front the two pools while behind the rocks is the sauna garden ...

Your notes

Comparing to any experience in Southeast Asia is hardly possible. First of all there is Germany's love affair with hot springs, which dates back to at least the era of Roman occupation (Cooper-Erfurt & Cooper, 2009) Since, soaking modes in Germany have waxed and waned, but to Germans soaking or 'kuren' is a scientifically proven method of medicine. How important is this?

• For instance the bible of Germany's spa's, Größchen's

  'Heilbäder und Kurorte in Deutschland. Conradi-Bäderkunde-Lexikon'

  counts more than 600 pages!
• In 2006 nearly 6.5 million soakers were recorded (Erfurt-Cooper & Cooper, 2010); visits lasting multiple days .

One must also note that when taking a longer wellness treatment German health insurance will covers this. No wonder soaking is so important ... See also the following:

'Today, Germany has one of the most comprehensive spa cultures in Europe, with the support of the German federal health care system to boot! The German equivalent for spa is Heilbad or 'healing bath' or Kurort which literally mean 'cure place'. Any town in Germany can qualify and choose to use the prefix 'Bad' or bath before their town name i.e. Bad Soden. Those towns that qualify have met the strictest air and water quality standards and have been able to establish the necessary medical staff and infrastructure to cater to those seeking treatment. ... Once a Kur or cure therapy has been approved, a patient will be sent to a certified Kurort or spa where a patient will enjoy a holistic experience of exercise, nutrition, relaxation, communication and motivation custom-fitted by doctors and medical staff. The focus is to provide a Kur guest with the best possible natural environment to cure or prevent the further development of illnesses'.

Then there is the level of facilities to draw in the comparison. Concerning the emphasis on medical efficiency in Germany and German cultural pursuit of high standards, levels of hygiene are extremely high and are first most in thoughts of managers. Competition between facilities means that increasingly higher lay-outs are required and for the visitor this means the facilities are more and more luxurious and at the same time larger and more diverse. But other than these two aspects (medical culture / standards ) I believe there is little that would differ between soaking here in Southeast Asia and in Germany. In general soaks in both are mostly visited by locals, most patrons are slightly older and / or health conscious. Having such facilities in Southeast Asia could be possible, though the price differential would exclude most locals. So an in-between situation could be created. For instance hygiene is greatly lacking at 99.9% of Southeast Asia's soaking sites, but simple measures need not cost too much but can result in far better hygienic situation. My own preference? Well that would be a bit unfair. making a choice. The soaking culture in Southeast Asia is mostly non-existent and / or real foreign to myself whereas the experience above isn't ...