Bo Klueng: End of the road

Worth it?

Besides Pong Krathing hot spring, Ratchaburi province has another hot springs site: Bo Klueng hot 'stream'. These springs are situated in the Suan Phueng area, a recently approved accessible area of Ratchaburi province quite near the Burmese border. It used to be off-limits to all but locals due to the Thai-Burmese border relations or lack of relations more probabbly.
The area is now seeing quite a lot of tourism related construction: due to the amount of natural attractions, it’s ease of access to Bangkok (two hours if you fail to take your foot off the accelerator), it’s slightly cooler climate (due to it’s higher elevation) and enchanting natural surroundings (or did I mention it already?). Recently finished are a number of resorts / restaurants with others set to open in the near future. Roadside stalls specialize in selling plants (esp. orchids) and ‘souvenirs from Myanmar’ the politically correct name for the politically incorrect country of Burma.

How to get there
From the town of Suan Phueng to the hot springs site of Bo Khlueng is a distance of roughly 15 km. The scenery changes markedly from gradual rolling hills to medium high mountains covered with (pristine?) forest and small valleys with swift flowing streams flowing between the remnants of valley forests and more recently planted fruit orchards.

The (re-)sources
Located just 1 km before the end of the road (a side road of highway no. 3087), a small car park is situated off the left before a small booth with barrier. After paying 5 Baht to a disinterested receptionist and taking a short stroll of 100 meter or so along a large pond, one comes to an intersection of paths.
Here are situated a number of restaurants. To the left is a large concrete lined pool (7 x 15m) which during my visit is empty and receiving a well-needed scrub from a number of hard working ladies. This pool, created by damming a stream, is situated at the end of this stream with an overflow to the previously mentioned pond. The water coming from the stream is warm. Some would say hot, but it is not too hot. When filled, this pool must be quite attractive as during its construction considerable effort had been made to retain a certain naturalness: huge boulders are located in and along the side of the pool. The water depth maintained would be about 1 meter.

Traveling all the way out here only to discover the main pool is getting a scrub.

From this pool I walk further upstream, the increasing heat evidence of becoming closer to the source of the hot stream or was it just the soaring mid-day heat? About 200 meter from the pool there are a number of streams coming from small holes in the red-hot rock bed of the stream, obviously the source of springs. These springs are also way too hot to be considered ‘bathable’.

The source of the intense heat: coming from between the rocks

Surprisingly for a Thai hot springs site, no one has come up with the innovative idea of cooking eggs in the springs; maybe it's more a northern Thai / Cambodian thing to do. But it also happens in Malaysia...., ah, it's possibly a long established tourist kind of custom, developed through generations of exposure to unattractive and boring hot springs ("I'm sure we can get hot water straight from the tap back home").

The hot water stream flowing downwards. Besides the water being hot, so are the rocks!

Back at the intersection, a small side path leads to an office-like structure which proves to be the entrance to a separate pool / bathing area. During the week (as now) use of these facilities is free, however during the weekend a fee of 80 Baht (by the time of publication nearly 3 $ US) is required, which local Thai residents might consider steep. It gives access to changing rooms, showers and a 5 meter round and shaded hot pool with a few loungers / chairs on its fringes.

And the non-natural soaking pond: actually not too bad for a dip during the cooler months or in the evening.

A cooler soak
An interesting side trip, is to take the footpath beyond and above the hot stream. It continues up and onwards ending near Pha Daeng (or Kao Chan?) waterfall. This waterfall lies in a wide but steep valley through which the river flows in a succession of waterfalls, though few are really spectacular. Maybe that changes during the rainy season but now at end of March, before the real drought onslaught, at best the waterfalls are just OK. Along the waterfall, going downhill, the path continues until it ends at a huge and empty car park. Possibly the emptiness is different with the weekend influx, but I can’t believe that Bangkokians will or have ever arrived in such numbers. Then again, near the car park is such an accumulation of refuse, that certainly must come from somewhere. Just near the car park are a couple of stalls.
The upper levels of the waterfall though are deliciously unpolluted and at that moment unvisited, great for an all-natural dip.

Pha Daeng or was it Kao Chan waterfall? Whatever, for late March it still made a pleasant dip.

Overnite
The day is drawing to an end and distant thunder is rumbling ever closer. Moving onwards to Kanchananburi, Ratchaburi’s northern provincial neighbour, seems a bit too far fetched and I decide to seek accommodation nearby; there is some choice to be had and the surroundings here are certainly crispier and more natural than a downtown Kanchanaburi hotel.
I drive back a couple of kilometers towards Suan Phueng, take a right turn and drive down to the reception of the Scenery.

"No, we are fully booked this evening",

says a receptionist, clad as a pristine nurse,

"but you’re welcome to tour the grounds".

She is very persuasive though not really um, ... real or genuine. As I start to wander further, she insists on leading the tour and asks me to hop on her golf cart which she uses to drive me along a duck pond with sparkling white spacious bungalows beyond it. At the end of the drive the artificial scenery gives way to a shaded forest along a 30-40 cm deep stretch of a river. Chairs are conveniently located in the stream as well as some swings, originating from the overhanging trees. What a beautiful place! But no rooms tonite.

My nurse advises me to stay at the near the entrance located, white washed Nagaya, which she assures me, has several rooms vacant this evening. After close inspection, I must say that it does miss the magic of the stream, but it does have a better backdrop / view than its neighbour. The rooms are quirky: each different and carrying names such as 'naked' and 'nude'. One might expect a clothing optional resort but, this being Thailand, the names are meant as a teaser, alas. Nagaya provides bikes, but the tracks beyond Nagaya are equally enjoyed on foot: following and crossing the river and meandering through fruit orchards, especially when the threatening thunderstorm finally unleashes itself, drenching me to the skin.

After this partially involuntary soaking, I change into drier clothes and head back over to the Scenery, as they are only resort within walking distance with a restaurant. It only now dawns on me that, there being no accommodation vacant at this resort, might have proven to be an advantage: on every tree a speaker has been mounted from which Frank S. is crooning. I manage to pass the reception without requiring the assistance of a golf cart to face the 100 meter stretch to the restaurant. Unfortunately, the restaurant sound system is not rigged to the tree sound system and though the meal is excellent the intermittent jazz / Sinatra takes away from the meal.

The Nagaya, something not so Thai. Pity of the pond. But still well worth a stay.

And there's more
After a good (non air-conditioned) sleep, I decide to discover more of the Suan Phueng area. Highway no. 6070 heads southwest from Suan Phueng towards the border with Burma. There might be a couple of waterfalls accessible, though the waterfall to Pachundara is blocked.
At Kaeng Som Maew / Queen Sirikit Forest Park (25 km from Suan Phueng, then a left side road for another 2.5 km) the waterfall is actually a rapid with a lot of opportunities for recreation (read picnic). Surprisingly, I only learnt after the visit that there is much more to be seen, it's a nature study center.

The Kaeng Som Maew rapids, lie near a nature study area with a royal hut.

However, Bo Wi waterfall (15 km from Suan Phueng, then in Bo Wi village a right hand turn before crossing the river, continue upstream for another km) is much more worth a visit. Located in a narrow valley this is again a multi-level (seven?) waterfall. Go up a couple of levels and on this week day, a pleasant skinny-dip can be had.

Objective met, time to return to the world, to Bangkok.

Bo Wi waterfall, great place to really cool off and spend a pleasant time in complete solitude (as you can see)

Discovering more

A bit of surfing on the i-net, has revealed more. As usual, there's a seemingly unending list of alternative names for the hot springs: Bor Klueng, Bo Khlung, Bo Klung, Bo Khlueng and probably many more variations; I settled on Bo Klueng as the first picture reveals (above this post entry): the fact that the place itself uses it.

There are some more visitors / sites who have posted their views / additional info:

• Bangkokmum:

  'there are two springs at Bor Krueng , a cement pond located outside for all to see and a swimming pool higher up … we went for the swimming pool cuz it’s shallow enough for kids to waddle in … people there jump in wearing t-shirts and shorts so i looked a little over the top in my swimming suits … it was quite relaxing , just soaking in the hot water and watching butterflies fly by …'

• Chomphrai reveals the history of the hot springs: prior to 1960 it was a mining area which explains why it is now private property. He / she also comments on butterflies and does more exploring nearby.

• The official Tourism of Thailand site mentions the temperature of the water and adds a couple of good photo's.
  

• On this travel agency site ('Thailand Travel Tours') they mention both Pha Daeng waterfalls ('riddled with leeches') as well as Bo Klueng ('nice place to relax').

• Extensive information on, not only the direct surroundings of Bo Klueng / Suan Phueng, but the whole of Ratchaburi province is to be found on wikitravel.

  'In winter, in the morning, the hot stream will combine and form a terrific fog'.

  It also provides more info on the trail between the hot springs and the waterfall:

  'Route 2: Start from the office and walk along the waterfall, passing Bo Khlueng Hot Stream and turn back to the office, taking 3 hours'.

  It also mentions the nearby 'Natural Science Park' from which the trail originates. It also refers to the waterfalls as 'Kao Chan' rather than Pha Daeng.

• Finally, a German language wiki mentions the waterfall (Kao Chan) having 9 levels.
  

Getting There: From Ratchaburi city, take highway no. 3087, just north of Ratchaburi on motorway no. 4. The 3087 bypasses the town of Chombung and after a gradual climb you'll find yourself in the town of Suan Phueng. Highway 6070 towards Bo Wi and Kaeng Som Maew / Queen Sirikit Forest Park is a left hand turn in town itself.
Bo Klueng however is a well signposted left turn, 5 km further out of Suan Pheung still on the same highway, 3087. The hot springs are about 10 km from this intersection, on your left.
The Pha Daeng / Kao Chan waterfalls are at the end of this road, 1 km beyond the hot springs.

Soaking Experience: Tough luck for me, the natural (free) pond was being cleaned, which of course deserves a very positive review. The hot stream itself has been kept natural, but simply too hot for anything other than a burn. The artificial pool is not enticing enough, but in the cooler part of the year certainly worth a try, especially if you can avoid the more busier weekends / Thai holidays

Overall impression: However, with the delicious natural setting and attractions around, Bo Klueng hot springs are certainly worth a very pleasant visit. Stay longer, it’s worth it!

Update here.

Developments

Slowly but ever so securely, I have been exploring and linking sites from all over Southeast Asia to this site. It's becoming a huge list!

Currently the number of links is well over 200 with the volcanically active Philippines left to be included. In the process the site has become the number 1 site purely dedicated to soaking and finding soaks in Southeast Asia.

Additionally, I have tallied a couple more soaking sites I personally visited, though with Southeast Asia's hottest season before us, more personal visits might have to wait ...

Again if any readers would like to contribute, feel free!

Pong Krathing: the local soak

Not many non-Thai will have heard of Ratchaburi province in a touristy sense of way. This province lies due west of Bangkok and covers large areas of the main Thai lowland rice plains that surround Bangkok, as well as a mountainous area on the border with Burma. The Damnoen Saduak floating market may ring a bell to some, but this obligatory tourist creation, though picturesque, is not what I was seeking over the past Easter weekend. With a 24 hour time frame, I just had sufficient time to explore the mountainous part of this province.

Background
Ambitious plans a side, the first destination was Pong Krathing, a hot spring located somewhere west of the main motorway which dissects the province north-south on it's way from the south to Bangkok. Prior to leaving for Thailand, I failed to get much information on this hot spring. My own link to this hot spring referred to bangkokmum's:

'i just watch a tv programme on places to go to in ratchaburi … they showed another hot spring called ‘ bor pong krating ‘ … this one’s located on route 3206'.

Elsewhere on the internet there is:

'Pong Krathing Hotspring. A hot spring is located at Phu Nam Ron village in Ban Bueng sub district, Ban Kha district',

This excerpt originating from Chaloem Phrakiat Thai Prachan National Park website. Then there is:

'Pong Krathing hot spring with a diameter of 5m. When circled by a group of people who noisily clap their hands, bubbles will emerge from the well'.

All not very informative, so a task on hand! And let's hope not too many people turn up to clap their hands, even silently!

The road there
What's more is that the aforementioned links certainly don't exert themselves in details on how to get to the hot spring. Luckily, Pong Krathing is also the name of a large village so after leaving the motorway on the best detail I could find online ('highway 3206') a 'Pong Krathing' signboard was not so hard to find.
Just a few kms beyond the motorway one knows well-and-truly that one has returned to the real Thai countryside, especially as a couple of limestone outcrops pop up to the north each with a smiling Buddha somehow perched on these hillocks.
On a major turnoff opposite a traffic police office I managed to find a highly detailed provincial tourism map, which showed not only that I was on the right way, but the hot spring itself was quite a distance from the main road I was following. After passing Pong Krathing village (60 km from the motorway), the road takes a sharp turn to the north and a few kms further on, a hot springs signboard clearly indicates a road to your left / west. The countryside had by then evolved from lowland paddy fields into rolling hills with much secondary forest and pineapple plantations with some rubber plantations, eucalyptus stands and sugar cane fields. There are also quite a few fruit orchards.
The partially overgrown road leads to a large reservoir which, as it is now the start of the Thai hot season, is at quite a low level. At the other side of the reservoir an unpaved road continues along the shore where the main road continues downstream. The road splits after about 500m and the left split leads to the hot spring site of Pong Krathing.

The hot spring site
The hot spring site has seen some development; there is certainly ample parking space, but structures are mostly made by bamboo ensuring it's all low key and thus maintaining a friendly sort of character. No entrance fee is required and a small bridge leads over a stream. On the opposite side of the stream, a few steps lead upwards to a large cemented reservoir with half meter high walls to keep unsuspecting guests from falling in the spring itself while creating a larger reservoir of hot water. Between the reservoir and the stream 3 pools have been constructed each about 3 m in diameter with hot water standing half a meter deep.

The spring itself: walled in. Banana's have been donated to site lounging monkeys.

What makes this site unique is that just a few steps from the hot pools, a pond has been created through a low check dam on the stream. A wooden stair leads into the cool(er) water.

The pond with stair, the hot pools with behind them the spring itself and a few temples.

Usage of the pools was evident (as opposed to the previous blog entry 'Cambodia's finest'): a couple of (local) women were bathing (fully clothed of course), alternating between the hot pools and the cold pond. Near the entrance to the site a signboard gave an overview of the number of visitors which during January and February this year totalled over 200 daily. A local added that these numbers drop off during the hotter months and months which require more rural labour, but still more than 53,000 adults visited the hot spring site last year. Hardly any foreigners visit the site ('sometimes, but never many'), though my contact mentioned that the day before three 'falang' visited. Today I represented the rest of the world.

Other facilities include a number of massage huts and a few places where you can buy drinks, food, snacks and banana's so as to feed the local monkey troupe. The masseuse's had hung up photo's to show they had received some kind of training. There were also a couple of small temples / offer places both near the restaurants as well as beyond the hot spring itself.

The massage huts

Getting There: The best way to get to Pong Krathing hot spring is to take highway 3206, which leaves the A4 motorway a few kms north of where the A4 merges with highway 35. The road, at first flat, gradually climbs through more hilly terrain. After 40 km there is an intersection; the 3206 changes here to the 3313 and there is a road coming from the east (3337), from Ratchaburi city.
After 60 kms from the motorway, there is an intersection with a well-signposted road to the west / left. Taking this turn, the road continues on for another 10 km until you reach a large reservoir on your right. After a total of 13 km from the last major intersection, an unpaved road to the right passes over a bridge. Five hundred meters further on this unpaved road splits and the left split leads to the hot spring (500m).
A faster route from the motorway may possibly be the route coming from the north: the 3087 leaves the A4 just north of Ratchaburi City and passes the town of Chombueng. Forty five kms from the motorway one takes the direction of Ban Kha (3313) and continues onward to the aforementioned turn to the reservoir. The distance is roughly the same, but the road sees more traffic and is wider.

Soaking Experience: The possibility to alternate hot with cold soaks adds to making this place a great place to soak, though the hot pools are very small and during a busy weekend (when many non-locals visit the hot spring) the experience might be a bit disappointing. There were also no private pools, alas.

Overall Impression: The lack of any large scale development, the absence of an (excessive) entry fee and the efforts of locals to make the hot spring attractive to themselves with good facilities esp. like the huts for the masseuse's give a lasting impression. Added to this is the relative good access, though it still is remote. Unfortunately the local surroundings, though picturesque (mountains / reservoir) are not readily accessible and no local efforts have been made to provide accommodation even in the wider area. The direct surroundings were still very natural. But if you are heading either further upcountry or going south to Hua Hin taking this diversion is certainly worthwhile.

Tei Teuk Pous: Cambodia's finest?

Cambodia's only hot springs site: naturally not, developed not.

Well, the title to this entry is a bit unfair, considering this is the only place in Cambodia with a hot spring. It must be the finest! Still the title is true, but possibly a bit misleading ....

Name
Before rating the site based on my visit of last week another hot issue concerning this entry concerns the name of the springs. It's been mentioned to as Phnom Te, Tai Teuk Pous, Ta Te Teuk Pus (Cambodia Life), Te Teuk Pus, and probably a couple more variations on the preceding. Matt Jacobsen's 2007 Ultimate Cambodia guide (arguably the best guide, of and off the tourist trails in Cambodia) gives his own solution: he simply refers to it as 'Ancient hot springs'!
However here at Soaking in Southeast Asia we've decided on Tei Teuk Pous which is the name on the prominent signboard announcing your impending arrival at the site. Then again it's not 100% sure that there is no typo error on that signboard, but we have to start somewhere.

The road travelled
Considering Cambodia has only just the one hot spring, you would imagine that it's not so hard to find. To a certain degree that's correct, finding it is not too difficult, getting there is entirely different story. Located in Kampong Speu province, the springs are to be found in Aural (or Oral) district of this province. Considering it's not directly on the tourist trail, it can be excused that the tiny district headquarters (otherwise known as Sangkea Satob) fails to direct you in the right direction. Then again if you know there's only 1 roundabout in the district and you need to go west, these clues should be sufficient to guide you onwards to the hot springs which are roughly 10km south of Sangkea Satob's roundabout.

Imminent arrival, one signboard (hot water) the other: Tei Teuk Pous Ecotourism

As you have been traveling on poor roads (or very poor roads) for over two hours, you must be getting exhilarated by finally arriving at the hot springs themselves, however, if it wasn't for a signboard you probably would have just driven past.

The springs themselves

In all honesty, for a hot spring, it's a bit disappointing. As you can see from the photo, the two signboards give an indication as to which direction the springs are to be found. There's a makeshift temple between the road and the springs, which are 50 m further away. Some development has taken place, I'll get to that later and some is still impending (considering the amount of heaped gravel lying close by). The springs lie on the edge of a swampy area. Development has lead to a 50 cm high wall around the springs, the top of which is level to the surrounding ground. Some of the springs within this 10m in diameter box have been cemented in, no idea why. The pond overflows at a couple of places and a stream carries this hot overflow away in the direction of the swamp. From the barrier wall, steel rods protrude upwards, indicating that there are plans to raise the wall higher so as to create a pond with a larger capacity. Where most of the water overflows steel pipes with valves lie roughly 50 cm above the water. Could it be that after the wall has been raised, these would be then used to allow water to enter the steel pipes? Possibly. And where do the steel pipes go to?

The springs themselves, the only way is up?

Before I answer that, I could additionally highlight that there used to be a separate system with wooden boxes (for bathing purposes?). There's a sitting Buddha statue, though it's significance eludes me. But what is pretty clear is that the site is neither natural anymore nor open to bathing. I do take off my shoes and let my feet dangle in the hot stream, but is that the satisfaction for this day-long trip?

Development?
Well, aside from satisfying my curiosity there is still the issue of the steel pipes. The steel pipes follow the stream for a while but where the stream makes a turn the pipes continue straight in and through a forest of sorts.
I return to the springs themselves get on my motorbike and travel 500m back where a straight and broad road (complete with gutters) heads to a building, which on closer inspection is a gate /entrance. Parked the motor again and on foot through the gate. The buildings are all of recent date though for possibly a year or so it seems to have been deserted. Beyond the gate, small wooden structures can be seen which are meant to be bathing houses. Each have been stylishly designed, with doors and a small shelter. Unsheltered to the sky, are a squarish tubs roughly 1 by 1m, 50-70 cm in depth. On the sides of the tubs not connected to the shelter there is trellis, possibly to give some privacy for bathers. All in all, these would provide a better soaking experience than many I have observed in Thailand.

Soaking huts: spread out

There are roughly about twenty of these structures, some larger than others. Beyond these are changing rooms (with lots of cow shit!), an intended restaurant with deck and separate picnic tables with shade covering. This all backs onto the swamp with the hot stream in the foreground. In the distance one can still observe the hot springs.

The place is eerie silent, if it were not for the abundant bird life. Overall the surroundings (here and back at the springs) were alive with birds: swallows, bee-eaters, a coucal, a pair of pied starlings, babblers and more. If not for the hot springs, the site is certainly interesting for bird-watching!
Though the buildings are certainly not overgrown, no recent evidence of human occupation can be seen. Already a huge tree has come crushing down and blocking a couple paths.

More on the hot springs' development
Apparently, the 'ecotourism' of the signboard site refers to these new structures. A 2006 article on the Lutheran World Foundation's (LWF) development work nearby the hot springs describes the following:

'But the community fears that the underground water [of a deep well] will be exhausted in future if the golf courses, being developed by two foreign-owned companies, become operational. The construction of golf courses and hotels near the village, in the guise of eco-tourism is ongoing. "We know that these companies will be using much more water than we do," the villagers lament. "Our deep wells might dry up."

Mr David H. Mueller, the LWF/DWS representative in Cambodia, points out that the "ecotourism" project has also claimed the Suoy people's sacred hot springs, and disallows access to other natural resources the community has customarily relied on, especially in the most meager season for food and income'.

Matt Jaconbsen (2007) adds:

'A swank hotel and health spa was recently built to cash in on the reputed benefits of the water and is located just before one arrives at the main site'.

And one of the aforementioned sites (Phnom Te):

'Hot spring is rare is Cambodia and expected to become a big spa for health rehabilitation in the future'.

Well, a swank hotel it certainly is not, neither would I refer to the intended hot springs park (?) as a health spa. And there is certainly no evidence of golf courses.
Did the companies run out of money? Possibly. However it was always going to be a long shot, the road from the main highway is a 60 km non-black topped 'road'. Half of which is in very poor condition, another of Cambodia's so-called dancing roads. I count myself lucky I decided to take just two-wheels, this way I can wind my way through the pot-holes. Nevertheless, it took me a little more than 2 hours to complete the 60 kms. If you are expecting scores of cars to travel up from Cambodia's bustling capital Phnom Penh to see the springs for themselves (and knock a golf ball around), well that might be a slight miscalculation!

The 'resort' entrance: a road less traveled?

What if?
However, with giving the companies the rights to develop the site, alternative small-scale development has (or is) probably not allowed. That's unfortunate, local interest in the springs would have remained strong. Certainly, Matt Jacobsen refers to the springs having significant medical / health properties:

'Cambodians far and near still make the journey in an effort to rid themselves of skin diseases and other illnesses'.

Additionally, he refers extensively to the spiritual significance for the local Suoy:

'The site is still used for religious ceremonies by the local minority Suoy people, so it is possible that knowledge and use of this site has been passed down through the centuries. It is believed that spirits reside at the hot springs and parents have been known to take their children, along with a buffalo, to the springs when the children became ill, sacrificing the buffalo to the spirits to rid the child of the illness'.

And if this is not significant enough he relates how archaeological finds have been made near the springs themselves; pieces were reckoned to have:

'very symbolic religious motives.

....

'Legend has it that kings came to the site to enjoy the medicinal value of the mineral water and the area may be part of an Angkor era burial mound'.

This would most probably mean that locals would continue to not only visit the site, but enhance it. Not all development is for the good. That said the structures built are certainly not swanky as mentioned but rather in keeping with the natural site itself. Unfortunately the developers have not chosen to fulfill their promise.

Finally
In the end, despite their significance for Cambodia the springs currently have little value other than for 'freaks' (I mean that positively!) such as myself: satisfying my curiosity.

More photo's of Tei Touk Pous can be found on my hot springs photo site.

[Update (March 7, 2008): An article in Asialife (March, 2008, Phnom Penh edition) on Kampong Speu province identifies the site as Teuk Phoh:

'Although not a volcanic country Cambodia boasts hot springs high in the foothills of Mount Aural. Teuk Phoh, which means emerging water in Khmer, is located on a five hectare site full of forests and red rock'.

If anything the author is misled, probably never been there. Some sentences seem to be copied from this site. The hot springs are not high up in the foothills! Nor is the site full of forests and red rock, if anything it is a swamp! The author identifies the locals as Kuoy instead of Suoy. She (Anita Surewicz) does add that:

' Washing your face with spring water is believed to bring good luck!'

End of update]

Getting There: Tei Touk Pous hot springs are located in Oral district, Kampong Speu. From Phnom Penh take highway no 4. to just beyond Kampong Speu town (nearly 50 km from the city centre). A large signboard announces the turn to Oral which is on the west side of the road. Continue along this black-topped road for two kilometers until you get to a bridge over a canal, straightaway turn toyour left and follow the canal road for about 200 m, after which it is clear that the road veers off the side of the canal. This is also the worst stretch of the road. From here it is nearly 50 km to Sangkea Satob, Oral district headquarters. The closer to Sangkea Satob the less potholes, possibly some overall kind of road reconstruction is taking place, possibly it could just as well be a dry season job, the road deteriorating after the monsoonal rains. In Sangkea Satob, go straight at the roundabout, the road narrows slightly and winds more. The landscape becomes much more forestry and you pass a couple of streams until after 10km from the roundabout the main road you've been following veers too the right and a big cement sign on your left reads 'hot water'. You have arrived!

Getting there: prepare yourself for some dusty rock 'n roll!

Soaking Experience: Well as you may have read above there's not much of a bathing culture nor facilities. Dangling your feet in the main pool would be ill-advised, too hot! Just follow the run-off of the overflow until you find a place where soaking your feet is possible and agreeable. Do not expect to soak more than your feet. Not in the near future

Overall Impression: Considering that the springs are not open for business I would not recommend anyone to specifically visit the springs, but if you need to be in the area (why?), a short stop maybe warranted.

Update. From September 2010 an article in the Phnom Penh Post (reblogged). No changes to situation described above.

From the Press III

Bangkok Post are well and truly in the 'cold' season frame of mind. This week's travel supplement (Horizons) includes a review of a stay in and near Fang hot springs, northern Thailand, Chiang Mai province:

'A national park mightn't be your first choice of destination when touring the North. but this one, about three hours (160km) by car from Chiang Mai city, has a lot to offer. For openers: In how many places, here or abroad, can you luxuriate in an open-air bathtub fed by water from a hot spring?

Once known as Mae Fang, this national park was renamed in May, 2006 to make it more readily identifiable with its biggest attraction: Doi Pha Hom Pok, which, at 2,285 metres above sea level, is the second highest peak in the Kingdom (after Doi Inthanon).

If you're anxious to get to the summit in time to see the sun rising over a sea of mist then it's best to camp at the base of the mountain for an early start. Otherwise you'll be a good deal more comfortable in the accommodation at park HQ, about an hour's drive from the campsite.


Each of the resort-standard wooden bungalows has two bedrooms, one with a double, the other with a single bed. There's air-conditioning and a TV in each plus a hot-water bathroom with a proper bath and a large balcony with table and chairs.

Unfortunately it is the same springs they highlighted two months ago. No wonder it is the most popular hot springs resort in the country! Soaking in Southeast Asia visited these springs in November.

Sorry about the quality of the pictures, they do come straight from the Bangkok Post site!