Updates for September 2009

Tinkering
A bit blatantly stated, but tinkering is what they believe will make Ranong, Thailand a

'health and wellness destination'.

Cost 4.9 million THB (just 150.000 USD). What they want to do with the dosh?

'... hire a company to study how to upgrade the province’s best site, Pornrang Hot Springs, in Bangrin sub district'.

The TTR weekly's article shows what's needed free of charge.

'There was a need to provide explanations on how the minerals benefit health and the ambient temperature at each pool. There were eight employees at the springs but none of them could communicate in English. ... To succeed provincial authorities should take a leaf out of the spa resorts’ manual on construction and landscaping. To be successful they need to balancing ambience, user-friendly facilities and quality in a manner that would justify higher entrance fees'.

Why? This well thought article continues to decry developments of hot spring resorts in Thailand.

'The dilemma for hot spring developers is that with every improvement, the natural ambiance is eroded. Often the interpretation of what visitors require from a hot springs results in tacky designs, poor maintenance regimes and ultimately a product that becomes unhygienic and less appealing as its popularity grows. Upkeep and maintenance is a crucial factor that is often overlooked, giving an overall negative impression of the facility. Left in their virgin state, hot springs are usually very appealing to the eye. But as developers move in to build tiled pools, changing rooms and toilet blocks, much of the ambiance of a natural hot spring is lost'.

So though tinkering is what the authors would like to see, is that what the 4.9 million THB will recommend? Too often in Southeast Asia what happens when governors try to attract tourists is as above. Make them less appealing. I hope I can visit this spring before the developers move in.

In the mean time, let's have a look at what it looks like now:

From traveljournals.net. Now why does she have minimal wear and he oversized shorts? Something with his thighs ...? There are more photo's ...

Western thinking revisited

In July, this blog highlighted a press report from China that mentioned that soaking nudey is so western like. In response Soaking in Southeast Asia gave quite a few examples contradicting this.

From echinacities.com comes this article, originally from ifeng.com:

'Communal and co-ed nude bathing doesn’t only take place in Cancun hot tubs during spring break celebrations. In fact, for several Chinese minorities, nude bathing has long been a part of their traditions. It may not be purifying yourself in the waters of Lake Minnetonka, but here are the best five best places in China for nude bathing; you can leave those bathing suits at home'.

It briefly describes five opportuntities to bath au-naturel complete with pixelated pictures. Do mind though, it's minorities who do this!

I also delved up these pictures which contradict aforementioned press opinion:

The first a hot springs festival (!) posted on a blog by Fusansan: in 2008

'Every Spring Festival, the Lisu people gather at the Hot Springs by the Nujiang River [Yunnan]. By taking baths and washing off dirt with sacred spring water, people hope for forthcoming auspiciousness'.

The second from Tibet (Oh, oh. There goes my theory, these are examples from western China....).

"I soaked with the friendly ladies in the hot spring until I became too hot and had to hop out".

By Solemnyeti (2008).

Then, a much older picture (1950) and from Japan and involves no hot soaking, just fishing.

"A successful launch" by Iwase Yoshiyuki.

Odd though, this focus on females ....

In the same vein?Asia Spa (printed in Singapore) July/August 2009 has an article of south Japans best baths. In the guide to onsen (hot spring) section (not online unfortunately) the author informs Japan's etiquette concerning bathing there:

'First you must be prepared to bathe completely naked, swimsuits are never worn. But Japan's baths are single sex, and in the steam and splash your naked state feels completely inconspicuous.

...
Before you enter either bath you must make sure you are clean.
...
Being spotlessly clean is essential'.

The blog world then

Malaysia

• Sungai Klah? §oŁЇtǺ®ÿ ®o§ě went there and stayed a nite at the adjacent resort. Apparently the villa's come with private pool:
  

  '* Jacuzzi - babe not included with booking of villa * This villa does not come with bikini babe. Unless you book the babe along.. You have to bring your own bikini babe. LOL!!! This a picture taken candidly by my mom'.

• More on Sungai Klah, a blog dedicated to a child who burnt herself, posts written by her mother. The burns came from cups of noodles, not from the hot spring.

• What does Paku hot spring look like? Going by photo's by Wilson Tie, it's not much, certainly not a soak site ...

• The Lost World of Tambun is a water based theme park based on a possible ancient Mayan city. It's based around a hot spring. Judging by sixthseal's blog entry the hot spring is the least interesting part of the park.

Indonesia

• Bajawa hot springs on Flores, Indonesia. By Hamroast79.

Thailand

• The Wiang Pa Pao hot spring in Chiang Rai claims to be the highest hot spring in Thailand. Not clear what they mean, they highest pumped spout or the highest located ...

Singapore

• A visit to Sembawang, Singapore by MoMo Post.

  'While we were there, an uncle came over & offered his help to ease the blue black on my wife's leg, as she had a really bad fall on Friday. He seems really helpful & the blue black really subsided after 30min of rubbing with the hot spring water. But some part of her skin on the blue black were also being "Rubbed Out" which we didn't notice until later. As we were leaving, we went over to say thanks & to our shock, he asked for a payment of $20 for his service.'

  Accompanied by lots of photo's.

This blog
Added link to Spacious Planet Guide to Japanese Onsen Bath by Anna Mar.

'Can you wear bathing suits at onsen?'

Jimboche's answer:

'Rarely'.

A site with more info in the form of questions and answers as well as some photo's, though all strictly Japan.

I've also expanded the number of hot springs in Vietnam ...

Spa-ing and Soaking: Same-Same but Different?

One could state that soaking is an increasingly popular past time, not only here in Southeast Asia, but worldwide. But to be able to state this, one would need to know how many soaks there are and the number of visitors, i.e. back it up with some data. Which are not available.
But leaf through any travel related print and, sure, there will be an increasing amount of articles and more advertising on ... spa's. But is going to the spa, the same as taking a soak?

Soaks and soaks of sorts
Soaks, as I understand them, are soaks in natural waters. They become soaks as the waters are usually warm or hot. Looking for where these natural waters occur in the heated substance, one is looking for hot springs. So soaks are in their majority hot springs.
I say in majority, as here in Southeast Asia, we experience a prolonged period of hot weather. So hot, that shallow bodies of water warm up and could be considered as soaks. As could be the sea, which surprisingly sometimes fails to cool the swimmer.
During the heat, cooling down is often a better option and it's no secret that I enjoy waterfalls as much as or just as much as hot springs. One factor in their favour, is that there are many more waterfalls. Possibly because of their numbers, unnatural enhancements are less obvious to come across upon. And here in Southeast Asia if there's no road, no car park, no amount of food stalls, it can't be worth it ... But for me (and my family) that's just the attraction. What better way to unwind, cooling off naturally, in a natural environment, 'au naturel'?

April this year, Yak Loam Lake Ratanakiri province, Cambodia: the 'coolest' soak.

Define spa!
But I'm digressing. So are spa's not the same as soaks? The word spa, you'd be surprised to know, is actually a shorter version of the Russian word 'spasibo'. Which was the word Peter the Great used in 1717 when offered water, as he was sojourning nearby the town now known as Spa located in the Wallonian Ardennes.

Why they changed the name of the town remains a mystery, considering it had been used as a soaking site from the 14th century onwards. Anyway, such was the significance of this happening, that today the global relaxation industry is greatly dominated by the word. Though the word spa is largely eponymous with any place having a natural water source that is believed to possess special health-giving properties, in practice spa seems to have more in common with other wider themes such as health tourism or wellness rather than soaking itself. Massages, wraps, facials are all standard ingredients one can expect at a spa. What's more they have little or no relation to the existence of natural springs, be they warm or cold. And their health claims seem mostly unfounded. Spa's are nearly all located in or near urban areas where they can provide a 'retreat' from the outside world and/or on beaches where tourists may well be tempted off the beach to a, as naturally possible, property to indulge.

Exclusive
What all spa's have in common though is an emphasis on a different distinctness with a hope for attracting the well-heeled. The more exclusive the better. Especially here in Southeast Asia, spa's aim for the upper class. AsiaSpa puts it like this:

'Targeted at wealthy professional women aged between 30 and 50, AsiaSpa invites its readers to step outside their everyday urban environment and escape to a tranquil world where body and mind are refreshed'.

Though I might have a weakness for the mag, for instance it includes issues such as this month (May 2009) a special: 'The Family Issue'. With articles such as 'how to... be a super parent' and 'yoga for fertility'! However it's commercial emphasis and pretension to highlight the distinct rather than the true natural , certainly doesn't endear itself.

This penchant for exclusiveness is in contrast to say northern Europe where thermal bathing is open to all. But class associations are made between town's. i.e. Harrington for the lower class, Royal Spa Leamington for the upper class. This is also evident in other European nations. Places such as Evian or Baden-Baden are known as places where the upper class hang out, so to say.
In Holland (and Germany) though, spa's as such are scarce and sauna's are there to give what is essentially is a spa experience, though with the emphasis on taking a sauna, with the possibility of other upgrades (wraps, massages) or extensions (sunbed). Significantly these are less distinctive for upper / lower class. And they emphasize social contact.
One could compare this culture very much akin to that of onsen and sento in Japan. Though a soak may be great, a soak with great (new) friends is even better.

This all seems quite in contrast to spa's, where relaxation is the mantra such that tranquility becomes all enveloping (see above quote). And to muffle away the odd a-natural sound here and there, they offer background sounds, a fast flowing stream, gentle waves, rustling leaves, etc.. Believing that socializing is again against human nature, rooms are parted and separated.
The most exclusive massage I had here in Phnom Penh was a joint massage, the joint being a door between the massage rooms which was opened, rather than a room where at least both of us would lie. Possibly by de-socializing the experience it becomes more exclusive: "Oh ,I had a plunge pool all to myself". And how long did it take to get bored?

So ..., not the same?
No, I believe. A spa for me, is there for the convenience of a cheap massage. In contrast seeking a soak is an undertaking, getting out, an expedition, a voyage of discovery, a search for the holy grail and a possible reward at the end. But, all -in-all a lot of fun and interest.

I mean, in Southeast Asia what makes some of the most exclusive spa's differ from each other?
Take Tamarind Springs on Thailand's isle of Samui. It goes all out to tempt the tourist off the beach and it certainly looks great.

Hmm, would you pay to experience this? Nature is a plenty in Thailand.

'Tamarind Springs Forest Spa, Samui is inspired by its superb location – its lush coconut groves gently sloping into a valley of huge granite boulders bordering the island’s jungly interior. Built out of love and respect for this unique landscape, every effort was made to fluidly integrate this Samui spa into the existing indigenous surroundings.
...

The magical forest surroundings will help you to completely unwind.
The Forest. At The Forest guests enjoy drifting between the fragrant herbal steam cave and cold water rock pools, snacks and refreshments in the tea sala, before their massage treatments in open air pavilions.'

Is this much more different than a soak? Possibly, because the customer is king, hygiene is high, quality is good. But most Thai soaks offer a massage and the waters are more inclined to have therapeutic qualities. Then again at Tamarind Springs you do get disposable underwear!

Over at Losari (Central Java) it's more of the same (massage), though they have a hamam and not a steam room. It claims:

'An oasis for tranquility and renewal'

Maybe?

Anantara at the so-called Golden Triangle:

'Whether you choose an exotic fruit peel or a signature four-hand massage, Anantara's spa therapists will tailor every treatment to ensure your relaxation. From the moment you step into the spa's three-storey mountainside reception room, you'll feel infused with a sense of calm'.

Anantara Spa: Enticing? What happened to the view?

But again a number of massages to choose from, possibly an extensive choice, just to make it exclusive. But nothing more than a typical hot spring, other than exclusiveness with a price to fit.

Again they are different but also similar. Soaks, now those are different! They are naturally tranquil. No need to blend in some background muzak. Now let's hope the developers don't impose themselves and make spa's out of those great soaks!