Spa's and hot springs: a healthy read?

Seldom can one expect to find anything remotely describing worldwide soaking experiences, other than a number of websites. Let alone a full blown scientific publication.

However Patricia Erfurt-Cooper and Malcolm Cooper (both connected with Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University, Kyoto, Japan) are most probably the first and are putting down the stakes. Besides initiating soaking as a science, they are drawing on worldwide experiences of soaking, contrasting most current scientific literature on hot springs which never comment on the practices of soaking themselves other than the odd mention of bathing taking place. That said their focus is not solely on hot springs but the overall 'wellness tourism'. And though there are many similarities between soaking in hot springs and taking the waters in spa's, there are also the significant difference of naturalness of the source of water. Especially in Europe and increasingly elders hot springs are offering more 'products' (massage, beauty therapies, etc.) thereby blurring these differences.

Specifically the authors provide us with info on the global spa and wellness industry and it's historic roots, from ancient Pakistan to today. Other chapters look at the cultural and religious significance of water (and thus bathing), the geological background of springs, the tourism environment, economics, management, marketing and technology of wellness tourism, as well as the presentation of case studies.

Summarized the findings of the study are:

1. Springs are often located in active volcanic environments,
2. Despite geography hot springs worldwide have religious (and/or traditional) similarities',
3. Historically, development of hot springs has waxed and waned. This indicates their continuing significance.
4. Multiple use of hot springs for non-bathing purposes,
5. Hots springs are often synonymous with curative and therapeutic values. Information on both is lacking,
6. Especially in Europe springs have been part of the medical tradition,
7. Differences in hot spring use are often determined by local socio-cultural conditions, as well as factors such as access, temperature and development status of the hot spring and
   
8. No culture can claim first use.

It also pinpoints gaps and challenges, some of which concern information supply. Outside of North America and Japan, little information has been compiled (other than this site). Soaking need not be the only use. Increasingly development of hot spring sites include a trend to presenting them as waterparks. Within tourism literature there seems to be lacking researched demand.

In no doubt this book does provide extensive insight and manages to compile a backlog of literature references. That said the simple occurrence that this blog was not part of accessed websites despite the wealth of info, shows that there is still heaps of information to be compiled.

The blurring of the text with upcoming wellness tourism (though economic more significant) does not necessarily make this a must read publication for soakers. Yes, there are highly informative pieces but also less interesting chapters.

Wellness tourism as such derives from cultures where taking the hot waters has always been important.

Specifically the authors miss considerable information on Southeast Asia and manage to lop in Taiwan as well, while listing the Philippines in the Pacific. Indonesia gets a small paragraph despite it probably being one of the best places to find hot springs in the world. Thailand though does get more coverage, even though the places listed fail to attract specific soaking customers; hot springs in Thailand are used by locals for therapeutic reasons while tourists visit out of curiosity.

And though there may be similarities worldwide in soaking, the actual method (and tradition) of soaking is only briefly discussed. Much is made of the risk factor due to contaminating water (due to poor circulation), little of how for instance Japanese maintain absolute hygiene (with Iceland a close second) and the lack of hygienic bathing traditions in many lesser developing nations (for instance Southeast Asia ...). And though significance is given to Roman culture for the spread of ancient bathing traditions and embracing soaking, the role Japan played in developing many of Asia's hot soaks is neglected .

Other aspects which I thought might constitute more research are the fact that many of the bathing traditions stem from countries / regions where bathing in warm or hot water are a treat in colder months. How would this tradition translate itself to Southeast Asia, where most soaks are located in hot climates. Does the water loose it's value therapeutic / medical value when cooled? Is heat part of the therapeutic process?

Another aspect is the fact that it focuses on water as the corner stone of this aspect of wellness tourism. In the absence of hot water, cultures have used hot air (sauna's, steam baths) for much of the same aspects, combining social life with 'health' aspects.
Modern day wellness traditions seem to focus much more on non-social aspects, affording personal exclusivity as another selling point (four, six hands massage).
The presentation of case studies fails to back up the literature. The case study for instance includes two pages on what a hot spring in Australia might develop.

All-in-all despite the promise, slightly disappointing. A wealth of references and a stimulus for improvement nonetheless.

Reference
Erfurt-Cooper, P., Cooper, M. (2009) Health and Wellness Tourism: Spas and Hot Springs. Aspects of Tourism 40. Channel View Publications, Bristol, United Kingdom.

Available from Publisher and Amazon.

Updates March / April 2010

Yes, I agree it has been conspicuously silent on this site for the past 2 months. No that doesn't mean that a stream of blog entries is on it's way ... More probably the followers will have noticed that there has been lots of flesh added to the bones otherwise known as Hot springs of the Himalaya. This month (April) just 3 postings, March 4 postings. In all there are now specific links to 160+ hot springs. Research has been done on much more, all very time consuming, but the (temporary) end is near ... A Facebook page has been added. No, it's not even running lukewarm ... 

 Anyways, any other news? 

That's besides the World Geothermal Congress, see previous posting. Well, harking back on the geothermality is this article from Indonesia which was originally published in the Jakarta Globe (23 April, 2010). It of course deplores Indonesia's lack to provide power despite all that energty being available under their own noses, so to speak. Commenting on a project in Garut:

'“People I speak to think it’s related to Lapindo [the uncontained mud flow near Surabaya],” said Erfan Hutagaol, head of the Energy Ministry’s geothermal business effort section, referring to the mudflow disaster in East Java. “And there are those who are already using geothermal for tourism purposes, such as natural hot springs. And they’re afraid the hot springs will disappear if we develop geothermal energy.”'

So that's not the case? An aspect which seems to be waylayed:

'An estimated 42 percent of Indonesia’s potential geothermal reserves are located within protected or conservation forests, the latter of which is off limits to geothermal production according to 1999 forestry law'.

Dr Fish discussion on Khmer 440 forum concerning the antics of fish 'spa's' in Siem Reap, Cambodia. As Cambodia is another home of pirated goods it's no wonder that the fish in these fish spa's are not original ones, at least that's the allegations. But heh, where else can you get a 20 minute Dr Fish session for $3 complete with a free can of beer? (see photo's). Bangkok Post (25 March 2010) puts in it's 2 cents. They spoke with the owner of Cafe DeSpa ($8 for 30 min, no drinks included) who uses a Japanese system of drainage to ensure sanitary conditions, something less obvious in Siem Reap even though I've yet to hear complaints from there. The article concludes:

'It seems the fish spa business is now under a cloud of suspicion. Hygiene is of course a big problem, while some outlets don't use the right kind of fish, but Garra Rufa [nibbling fish from Turkey] lookalikes like the Chin Chin fish [fish from China, when not juvenile they have teeth!] which can wound customers. Only time will tell if fish spas are here to stay, or are just a trend that comes and goes'.

Blogs / news from Southeast Asia (sort of): Malaysia

• An entry on mysabah.com on 'sulphorous' hottish springs near Tawau, Sabah. Located in the forest just 3 hours walk (this link says 1 hour) from Tawau Hills Park. But reporter didn't find the springs. Walked back, talked with ranger and set out the next day to find the springs, which he estimates to be 25-30 degrees; in his words they are not hot. Great posting, including pictures.

Vietnam

• Five million $ set up aside to spruce up Giang Son hot spring.

Philippines

• We like to think that all Southeast Asians are adverse to any risky behavior in or near water, but that's not the case. For instance at Sadanga, Luzon. A nice blog entry by banayan on communal bathing:

  'Though there are other hot springs in Mountain province, like that in Mainit, Bontoc, Sadanga’s set-up is unique. Even before the cisterns were built and enclosed, the males were already separated from the females – each has their own place to take their baths though these places are near each other. Though it was a common sight to see naked person of the opposite sex taking a bath, no records of malice or rape was ever done. But, decency took place and the bathing cisterns were enclosed. Yet, inside the enclosed bathrooms, all young and old females, take their clothes off, sit down and start splashing themselves with the hot spring water – splashes which very soon become pours'.

  Even more un-Southeast Asian:

  'A proposal rejected by the local people was that this public bathing place be developed and enclosed so those who’ll come will enter for a fee. Such a proposal was taken as something absurd but the local people clearly understand that once that happens, they, the locals, cannot freely enter the place. And, so it was rejected'.

  Unbelievable? Hot from the press:

  'The renewable arm of Philippine National Oil Company (PNOC) has secured a geothermal exploration contract to develop a 40-megawatt (MW) project for Luzon.According to Energy Assistant Secretary Mario Marasigan the project would have an estimated US$120 million investment which would cover 20 MW for the Mainit-Sadanga and 20 MW Buguias-Tinoc geothermal projects'.

Thailand

• This blogger (adventuresofabeautyqueen) while visiting Pong Phra Bat, Chiang Rai takes a different cue:

  'If you are looking for luxury, beware. Pong Phrabat Natural Springs is run down and in dire need of an investor who can turn the place into a world-class destination for SPA fans all over the world'.

  Her score card:

  'Water: 10 Tiaras; Privacy: 8 Tiaras; Tubs: 4 Tiaras; Service: 2 Tiaras; Ambience/Design: 1 Tiara; Massage: 1 Tiara (based on the French lady’s review); Cost: 10 Tiaras'.

• A new hot spring resort in Krabi province? Natthawaree hot spring apparently.

Timor

• A sign of life, a recent picture of Marobo hot spring.

Bhutan

• I know, I know, that's not Southeast Asia, still worthwhile news. Last year the hot spring of Gasa experienced a wash up damaging the hot spring infrastructure. Now the Japanese are coming ... to give advice:

  '“We want to reconstruct the tsachu as soon as possible and we’d like to work together with Japan, considering the same culture of hot springs in Japan,” Lyonpo [Bhutanese Home Minister(!)] said, during his meeting with a team from Arima hot springs in Japan, who visited Gasa tsachu to explore the possibility of reconstruction'.

  Yes it's possible this is the good news, might cost a bit ...

Nepal

'People taking dip at hot-water spring in Singh VDC of Myagdi district. People believe that bath at the spring cures several illnesses'.

Photo by Ghanshyam Khadka published by eKantipur. More gawkers than soakers ...

World Geothermal Congress: soaked?

Prominent in the news is the World Geothermal Congress (WGC) currently being held in Bali, Indonesia. Though we would expect that soaking and tourism would function in this, it seems to be all about generating power (literally and figuratively?). No less than Indonesia's president has vowed to make the country the world's geothermal power leader by 2025. That's if other countries don't pre-empt him.

But what about making Indonesia the world's number 1 destination for soaking? Currently it are countries as diverse as Japan, Costa Rica, Hungary, New Zealand and Iceland (the Blue Lagoon, Iceland's no. 1 tourist destination?) who make soaking a priority in their intentions to draw foreign tourists. Not so in Southeast Asia.

And by the looks of the WGC programme not much seems to change. Tourism is just a small side session and even the day-programmes on offer for the participants fail to include at least 1 visit to a Balinese hot spring. Maybe the majority of the participants are only interested in wallowing in wealth in the prospect of the $$$ which will arrive once the geo is harnessed.

What is on offer are a number of presentations, three of the ten on Iceland. There is a paper on the Indian Himal by the Arya's:

'Need of the hour is to come up with simple but effective solutions to renovate these geothermal resources and judiciously use it in our day to day life'.

If you have following the Hot springs of the Himalaya blog it seems that management is lacking, especially in the face of a tourism onslaught in the better accessible area's of the Indian Himal.

Chow Weng Sum presents an overview of the hot springs in the Malaya Peninsula (Malaysia) which hardly delves into any soaking aspects. Interesting he and his co-authors mention after sampling mineral water:

'Only two of these hot springs [of a possible 60?] meet all the requirements for drinking and mineral water'.

Furthermore the call to harness the sites for power generation.

In the poster session a poster by Charles Davidson, an Australian with a passion for soaking. The poster focuses on himself and how taking a leaf from the Japanese soaking tradition has tried (and succeeded) to undertake the same on the Mornington Peninsula of the Australian state of Victoria, the undertaking aptly called Peninsula Hot Springs. In this Google Doc an extensive overview of how Charles became Australia's premier soaker (?).

Finally there is a presentation by Patricia Erfurt-Cooper who is becoming the soak guru in the scientific world. With co-authoring 2 books on geothermal tourism in the last 2 years she is certainly the person to lift tapping-the-thermal-waters to a more prominent position, the question is whether her message would intrigue participants. The abstract certainly intrigued and the order to Amazon is underway for 2009's

'Health and Wellness Tourism: Spas and hot springs'.

And then there is this years

'Volcano and Geothermal Tourism'

edited by Ms. Erfurt-Cooper, which draws on world wide experiences, though not exclusively focusing on soaking. Might have to save up some money before ordering this ...

Faux

After visiting Binh Chau hot spring in the south of Vietnam, I was astounded at the contrast of experience of soaking here and that in other Southeast Asian countries. Was I witnessing progress? Could what is achieved here, be only be done with communist autocratic government? Or are the Vietnamese so totally different?

The main swimming pool complete with faux rocks and cascades.

Vung Tau
But let's start at the beginning. Binh Chau is a hot spring located in Ba Ria province, about 150 km from Ho Chi Minh city (or as some say Saigon), a two and a half hour drive away.
Besides Ba Ria, Vung Tau is another large city in this province and the focal point of tourism; Vung Tau being the beach of Saigon.

From the point of Cap Saint Jacques, Vung Tau is essentially a major area of hotels and beach resorts stretching for about 10 km along the sea facing shore until an expansive coastal flood plain after which a number of smaller resorts dwindle as one continues along the coast north and eastwards.
On the Saigon side large scale industrialization has taken place.

One of these smaller northeastwards located resorts, Binh Chau is a reasonable sized town located 70 km from Vung Tau. As the number of resorts peter out here, so does the quality of the road. From Binh Chau one needs to drive 2-3 km inwards towards the hot spring site itself.

Claims to fame?
Once through the entrance area there is a massive development, wide avenues and big reception buildings. Our car is parked close to the entrance. A 200 m long road leads to an intersection where one can proceed onward by foot to more park -like area, accommodation and the springs proper. Go right and one goes to the soaking section.

The hot spring resort is run by an investment operation called Saigon-Binh Chau Tourist Joint Stock company which includes a local beach resort. Since the turn of the century facilities have been improved and

'in August 2003, the happiness and success of this investment are rewarded by the World Travel Organization’s recognition that Binh Chau Hot Spring is one of the 65 areas of sustainable ecotourism development of 47 nations around the world'.

Yes, that accolade looks good. But looked at it in more detail, reveals that Binh Chau was merely

'a compilation containing 65 case studies received from 47 countries about exemplary practices in small ecotourism businesses (SMEs)'.

I.e., a slap on one's own back rather than 'recognition'. As the publication is not freely available on the web, little insight can be given to the aforementioned claim.
It's also not clear exactly what the WTO understands as ecotourism, their website lacks any definition.

More possible future (investment) development around the Binh Chau includes a safari park and villa's, which might just throw a different light on the eco claim ...

The naming game: call it eco and it is?

Developing hot springs and protecting the environment
Aside from the eco claim, it's not totally clear, but there are a number of references putting Binh Chau hot springs as part of a larger protected area. Amongst these is Lonely Planet which lists:

'Until about a decade ago there was wildlife in the area, including tigers and elephants, but it seems humans have nearly won the area over'.

Binh Chau's own web site refers to the ecological reserve:

'11.000 hectares of forest, known as Binh Chau - Phuoc Buu natural preservation zone'.

Note that Bin Chau hot springs site themselves are only 35 ha.

More info on the natural reserve can be found in this document from 1997. It contains a forewarning:

'Binh Chau hot springs is designed to suit the tastes of affluent Vietnamese tourists. The flower-lined walkways among hot springs, shady cabanas and a litter of bright painted stucco figures is pleasant and charming.

But, more concerning, the resort also holds a small zoo containing several rare species. Among other things, an eagle sulks in a purpose-built cage shaped like giant a spider's web and listless binturong (Arctitis binturong). It is illegal to keep the endangered binturong. I could not identify the eagle but several species of eagle and buzzard in Vietnam are on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Animals. Long-tailed macaques Macaca fascicularis, also on the IUCN Red List, were in two small cages. The centre-piece of this exhibit is a giant painted concrete structure resembling a coiled snake, strangling a rampant deer.
When I visited in December 1996, new structures were being added to the zoo complex.Clearly, this architecture enforces common perceptions of nature as mysterious and evil. 'Nature' - the Vietnamese word is 'nguyen', - carries a reproachful connotation of 'primitiveness'. Zoos of this character do nothing to show how precious is nature of itself. Nothing is here about the natural history of these species. Nothing to allow people to empatize with wildlife. Nothing to encourage them to protect their wild resources'.

It's therefore chilling to note the following announcement:

According to Management Board of Binh Chau - Phuoc Buu Natural Reserve, from the beginning to May, 2009, the reserve has attracted 20 tourism projects under ecological- tourism forms. Total investment area of these projects are about of 1,500ha'.

Soaking
To proceed to the soaking section one needs to purchase entrance tickets in an adjacent building.

This building incorporates changing facilities, showers and lockers, never seen a locker at a soaking site in Southeast Asia!

Beyond the entrance are two palm fringed pools against a backdrop of faux rocks stacked up 5-10 m. This tiled area is backed up by a free form 2 m wide pool, meant for kiddies, containing less warmer water.

In 1 corner are amenities while beyond the kiddies pools are places for mud treatment and VIP soaking rooms. On the other side a track extends into a swamp where there a number of other in-huts-enclosed-tubs, varying in size and thus price.

The main pool though is heated and goes to depths of more than a meter. The soaking experience is somewhat placid, late on a hot weekday most visitors are middle-aged Vietnamese, day visitor tourists already having left. The pool itself could do with some painting and the visible quality of the water could be better.

However, strikingly, almost all patrons are wearing bathing costumes, much in contrast to nearly all other soaking facilities in Southeast Asia. So much so that I wonder whether this is in Southeast Asia at all. It could be Europe or Australia. Canada or the states. I wonder whether this bathing custom is something Vietnamese or simply limited to these facilities.

The sights of Binh Chau: mud baths, hot pool, more mud baths, private pools and jacuzzi.

Throwing Mud
On offer are also mud baths or the opportunity to cover oneself in healing (?) mud.

Possibly this claim is true but what I find weird is why if it it so good, why the need to keep bathing clothes on. Especially women wearing a full one piece suit can be seen covering their suit in mud (below), can't see much health gains in that.

And though there are private enclosures, these are not meant for au naturel bathing. Inside photo's (above) disprove this as well as the fact that the material used allows for outside viewing.

Nguyen Pham's untitled muddy picture from Binh Chau.
Question is if mud equals health,
does this mean that females can not fully profit from the perceived health benefits?

An introductory youtube video on Binh Chau hot springs

Getting there: From Vung Tau head north / east along the coast until Binh Chau village. Take a left on the other side of the village followed by a right turn and after a km you'll arrive at the hot springs site.

Soaking experience: Certainly pleasant, considerable effort has been made to make soaking a worthwhile experience. Of the near 30 soaking experiences I have visited in Southeast Asia, this ranks highly amongst them even though the metamorphosis into a some what sterile soaking area comes at a loss of naturalness.

Overall impression: With in mind that this has been created to attract tourists, one could argue that this has been done tastefully. Certainly it could be a lot worse.

Part of the attraction park are the natural hot springs located away from the soaking pool itself.
It's said that they number more than 70.

Another update, February 2010

Still can't shake off the need to post updates though I hope they will get shorter in length as we proceed through this year. On the Hot soaks of the Himal site additions have included many hot springs of Tibet or better said Tibet Autonomous Region. I am currently in the processing of tying up some loose ends and looking to head where from here.

On this site our first Vietnamese addition, Binh Chau should hit the site soon.

News
Malaysia gives a new meaning to soaking? The Banjaran by Sunway describes itself as a 'Hot springs retreat'.
Much effort has been put into this newly opened resort, though it seems that it's intent is to cream off the very rich. No kids are allowed. And though this Tripadvisor thread has some positive feedback, the feeling lingers that they just might be asking too much from the market.
Already Agoda were discounting this by half to just US$ 529! A bargain!
Frog and Princess have some pics.

Others

• Development of hot springs in Southeast Asia has often come about by Japanese during WW II. However Hulu Langat in Malaysia is now referred to as the Korean hot spring, so writes Hoteden:

  'For some unknown and strange reasons, almost like storylines of those 'weird' yet wonderful Korean horror films, the hot spring of Sungai Serai in Hulu Langat, Selangor seems to be a 'popular joint' for Koreans living in and around Kuala Lumpur'.

• Many things seem to shock Singaporeans. What about this:

  'This woman was seen filling many pails to the brim with water from the Sembawang hot spring, and using the 'free' water to wash her clothes. She did it even though there was a sign that stated “不要在这里洗衣服” (Do not wash your clothes here)'.

  The horror. I dare not say it, but there are also photo's. Safe for work? In Singapore? Umm ....
  

'A sign at Pha Bong Hot Spring, 12km from Mae Hong Son'.

By Real Thai. What does uncle mean?

Slightly cheaper than the above mentioned Banjaran are Siem Reap's, Cambodia Dr Fish treatment. For just $3. Including a beer!