Publications: Cathedrals of the Flesh

Alexia Brue's 2003 first touch at a fully fledged book takes us by the hand and explores her own introduction to Europe's public bathing culture. Public, intimate (or not) she gives us a good insight into why we (used to?) value collective bathing.

Initially, Alexia sets out on an adventure to literally soak up what the makings are of a perfect setting for a bathhouse which may be located in New York city. Starting off in a Parisian steam bath, she becomes accustomed to and acquainted with the Istanbuli hammam, the Russian banya (both traditional and upmarket) and the Finnish love of everything sauna. The insights into their bathing folklore are complimented by a thoroughly readable journey into each countries culture and an increasingly in-depth revelation into the author herself as she jots down what would make her search for the holy grail perfect.

Interspersed by a personal historical account into Greek and Roman bathing, the journey ends in the soakers heaven of Japan, where she visits the tradional sento as well as what she hoped for: the most paradise-like onsen. 

On a hopeful note we take notice of her talk with one of New York's bathhouse owners. Will she have accomplished the mission she set out on?

It comes as no surprise that the author's journey has evolved and Alexia Brue is now regarded as an expert on wellness issues. Together with a colleague journalist she has been running the Well+Good NYC website ("Your healthiest relationship"), a premier source of info (million hits per month!) on wellness for New Yorkers.

A must read for soakers? This would be a giving a bit too much importance to this book, but all-in-all it's very easy to read, enjoyable and certainly entices readers to jump in and enjoy a thorough public bath. Forget the everyday worries and just immerse oneself. 

The book includes a resource guide which acts as an intro to entice followers of the flesh cathedrals, be they seekers of man-(or better said woman-)made public baths or naturally occurring hot springs.

Readers reviews have sought to tend to award five stars, as I would. Amazon readers give it 4.4 stars, Goodreads comes to 3.72 stars, while Google's books comes to just a shade short of 4 stars.

Hotsprung has her own review in which she emphasizes the insight she gets as well as the sense of adventure Cathedrals of the Flesh evokes.

Soakers worldwide should note that this book does not look into hot springs exclusively, but more into heat, water and bathing. 

And as would be expected there are no Southeast Asian connections ...

Reference:

Brue, A. (2003) Cathedrals of the Flesh - My search for the perfect bath. Bloomsbury, London, United Kingdom.

Development blends

Norm

What's always intrigued me as how bathing customs differ, how they evolve and how current culture seeks to cope with the differences and the outer world trying to influence local culture. 

However, with the lessening of cultural and social diversions, traditional bathing cultures are increasingly threatened. 

Unfortunately the Southeast Asian bathing culture is a modernist one which with elitist overtones has regarded au-naturel bathing as backward and laughable. However the last laughs I believe are of those fully clad snobs who must feel tremendously uncomfortable. Or not?

But internationally, in the bathing custom discourse it are the anglo-saxon wannabe star cultures which are pushing their agenda however unknown. 
For instance, many a blog entry on Japanese onsen reflect on the backwardsness of naked single-sex bathing. 

Which raises the question why travel to a foreign culture at all, if you disapprove?
Others express fear of the unknown, but find out that it's actually a pleasure and become life-long converts. Southeast Asians, while radically opposed to disrobing, will do everything to blend in, however opposite it is of their own culture (remember in Singapore private nudity is even forbidden). Alas, their voices are often too meek in the current day internet overload. The same goes for us Europeans who have less binds either way.

Back in July I visited two hot springs, one in Aachen (Germany), one in Holland (Thermae 2000). In Holland it was a costume free day, which 99% happily enjoyed, whereas in Germany a beautiful part of the springs was suit-free. Not many have qualms about the lack of dress. But that said, overseas guests are at minimum and when researching internet the English language responses are often filled guilt / shame ridden. 
To me simple nakedness is purposeless (we are bathing after all), but it leads to increased self-esteem, self-confidence and acceptance of nature.

Sheepish

Here are some recent examples of au-naturel bathing experiences by you. First by Irreplaceable, from Malaysia (July 14) enjoying an experience in Korea:

'Yeah, the very first time getting naked in public with two of my girlfriends. If you never have such experience before, this might sound so awkward for you, am I right?

In fact, I had been struggling for so long whether shall I try this nude hot spring. For me, it is just so embarrassing to appear in front of strangers without wearing a single piece of cloth. But after all, I decided to try it. How brave am I right. Bravo. To make you clear, it is a hot spring only for girls. Not mix one okay.

...

Miss that wonderful hot spring soaking moment with my girls. Wish to visit other nude hot springs of another country next time LOLOL. Don't think I am crazy okay I am not. Come on. Don't be shy. You all must try it if you all have a chance. That gonna be a very unforgettable memories I promise. :D 

Peace'.

Peace to you too. Then Big on trips from Singapore in Japan (July 21):

'I started out a bit self-conscious and sheepish about the whole thing. But having the husband in the same bath made me feel more comfortable. It helps that the baths are also sprawling so you can easily stake out your own little nook where no one can see you. After a while, you just get used to seeing everyone’s bits and realise that man or woman, it’s just a different anatomy so no point getting the knickers in a twist about it. Plus if you go as a couple, it is nice to be able to enjoy the onsen together'.

There is the odd exception and some are written with great wit. Take Joann from the USA in Japan (August 12):

'So it was that Diane and I, two fairly well-endowed women, stepped outside, naked as the day we were born, whereupon we made three crucial discoveries: we were the only Gaijin (foreigners) at the spa, the resort was co-ed, and the two of us were missing one small, but essential item. Every Japanese person we encountered, and 99.9 percent of them were of the male persuasion, was holding a small hand towel the size of a wash cloth, over his genitals.

Diane and I were not just naked. We were beyond naked. We were Über-naked.

Had we missed the warning sign in the locker room: “Please remember, don’t shame Buddha, all of the Shinto deities and the memory of hundreds of generations of your ancestors by stepping outside without your little washcloth?” Or perhaps there was no sign because the Japanese are born holding these tiny cloths as they exit the birth canal?

Desperate to cover ourselves, Diane and I crisscrossed our arms over our bodies. With our hands hovering ineffectively over our nether regions, we darted to the nearest hot spring for cover. The dark gray, mineral-laden water conveniently covered our nudity, and thankfully, we were alone.

But not for long.

Apparently, word of the two, too-naked, big-breasted American women, had spread like wildfire throughout the spa. Suddenly, dozens of extraordinarily friendly men, also unclothed, but of course with the obligatory washcloths, joined us in our pool. I did my best to fend off the many overtures from these interlopers who floated dangerously into my personal space, trying to chat us up. The Japanese love nothing more than to practice English, but the last thing I wanted to do was encourage naked fraternizing.

After a few minutes, I noticed that I had begun sweating profusely from the intense heat. After fifteen minutes, I felt nauseous.

I knew that I had to get out of this bubbling caldron, but escaping would have required climbing up a three-foot ladder to exit the pool, thereby providing a front-row view of that to which only gynecologists and lovers should be privy. My mind, which was now melting along with the rest of me, struggled to reason that I was thousands of miles from home, and the chance that I would ever see any of these men again was infinitesimally small. But I couldn’t bear the thought of baring my undercarriage, free of charge, to this rapt group of strangers. Diane agreed, so the two of us waited it out with a steely determination that would have impressed any prisoner of war.

One by one, our fan club left, and finally, we were alone, once again. We quickly made our getaway. Like two boiled lobsters plucked from a pot, steam rose off our crimson bodies, as we climbed out and once again scurried for cover to the nearest pool.

And so it went.

We spent the rest of the afternoon sprinting from one hot spring to another until we came to the last one of the day. Divided into three sections, each about the length and width of a bathtub, Diane and I chose adjacent pools. As we stretched out, we discovered that the water was only a few inches deep, so our entire torsos were completely exposed to the air.

We sat up and struggled to reposition ourselves to find some cover. A moment later, a man in a deep pool next to ours who had witnessed our thrashing, floated over to us, stuck his foot out of the water and pointed at it. It took only a moment to realize that Diane and I were lying in the footbaths—a fitting end, I suppose, to an altogether much too naked and humiliating day'.

In an overview of current day nudism in China (which 'reveals' a few hot springs where nudity may or might have been common practice). From nakedhistorian (August 8):

'Whilst there is very little nudism amongst the dominant Han Chinese, there is more tradition of nudist activity amongst China’s minority groups, especially down south.
...
In western Yunnan, the De’ang tribe bathe in the Imperial Hot Springs whose waters are rich with coal and salt extracts. We’re not entirely sure how they’d feel about foreigners stripping down and hopping in alongside them, but if you ask nicely, the chances are they’d clear a space.
The Mosuo minority believe in the disease curing properties of their local water, so they frequently bathe naked. During the Cultural Revolution, the government built walls across their pools to segregate men and women, but the Mosuo tore them down soon after. The pools were opened to tourists in the 1990s.
A little further north in Sichuan Province, nudism seems to be all the rage. Chongqing Girls Nude Bathing Area;sounds more like the title of a dodgy DVD, but it’s actually an area set aside for women in the Ba’nan District’s tranquil East Spring Village. The pool has been in use since the Ming Dynasty, and its water is said to cure blindness. If you fancy a dip, you’ll be pleased to know that it’s open to tourists. Female ones'.

A Thai in Japan (Nation, August 28): 

'Most of the skiers in Niseko spend their off-piste time in the Onsen. The Green Leaf Onsen stands out as one of the most beautiful natural rock pools in Niseko. The Onsen has separate indoor and outdoor pools for men and women with the water source originating from mineral spring.
But stripping off my clothes, soaking in hot spring with other men and watching huge flakes of snow swirling down, doesn't turn me on. I decide instead to occupy a bar stool and exchange words of wisdom with the bartender though I do agree to take a side-trip to Otaru and Yoichi'.

That's despite visiting onsen is no. 2 of Japan's Top 5 (Lonely Planet, Sept 8).

Blending in. In Uganda I believe (source).

Geo-spirit

Thinkgeoenergy (July 12) has an article by Jon Cheetham who can not understand why Indonesia is not embracing geothermal energy more whole heartedly:

'As my proof, take a look at PT Supreme Energy, who just received approval from the Rajabasa indigenous people to explore for geothermal resources in Lampung. What it took was frank information and compromise from Supreme Energy chief Triharyo Indrawan Susilo, who informed the Rajabasa of the minimal environmental damage to be feared from geothermal exploration, and promised to plant double the amount of trees that have to be cut down. How is that for a truly admirable renewable spirit? That was all it took; now Bp. Triharyo gets to go ahead with his project hoping to make himself and his employees successful, and the Rajabasa have nothing to fear for their environment. Everyone wins. The country wins. This generosity and openness is the attitude that is needed'.

In New Zealand they fail to understand why the Chinese would want to invest in geothermal energy in the already saturated energy market in NZ (Thinkgeoenergy, July 1). But also at stake is New Zealand nationalism:

'Overseas Investments Office, so the news, has just approved the deal, but it immediately receives criticism. ”Power is a critical component of any economy,” says New Zealand First leader Winston Peters. “To give away its ownership and profits to a foreign interest is not capable of being explained away.”'

In Italy opposition is growing towards the proposed Amiata Bagnore 4  geothermal plant. From Smartplanet (August 8): 

'He [Andrea Borgia, a geologist and volcanologist who works in the Italian High Commission for Environmental Impact Assessment] opposes the new plant because, he says, geothermal fields have already dropped Amiata’s water table, increasing the concentration of naturally occurring arsenic. What’s more, Borgia says that Enel is releasing carbon dioxide and other pollutants such as hydrogen sulfide, ammonia and mercury into the air — and that it doesn’t have to. (Of the geothermal fluid extracted at the plant, only a quarter is re-injected into the reservoir, and the rest, containing these pollutants, is released in the form of vapor.)'. 

All-in-all it's a very complex issue and it seems both sides have the truth on their side. However: 

'She [Adele Manzella, a geophysicist and researcher at the National Research Council] believes the controversy stems from the residents’ lack of trust in Enel and local policy: They did not solve air pollution problems in the Amiata area for a long time, creating bad publicity that is fueling suspicions about the drinking water.

Unfortunately, Manzells says, there is no conclusive evidence as to whether the geothermal work is affecting the level of the drinking water, and a study will take years: “It is a matter of debate, and people there do not know what to believe. It is left to the opinions of the people or scientists or other experts having one interest one way or another.”'

Then we already discussed dual use systems, as proposed for in the Philippines (source). Thinkgeoenergy has an article (August 12) on the Icelandic success of dual use. But that's not all: 

'While the Blue Lagoon remains the top tourist spot in Iceland, the power plants – all can be visited – are among the most visited tourist attractions in the country'.

Malaysia hopes to get it's first own geothermal energy as of 2016 (Thinkgeoenergy, August 8): 

'The power plant at Apas Kiri, would be the first renewable and sustainable project of its kind in Malaysia, with power to be sold to the Sabah Electricity Sdn Bhd (SESB) grid. It was originally scheduled for completion in 2015'.

Apex
Ever heard of the Global Spa and Wellness Summit? Well, the upcoming 2013 meeting slated for early October 2013 set for New Delhi hopes to attract hot spring operators and leaders to discuss soaking issues: 

'According to co-organizer Charles Davidson, from Peninsula Hot Springs in Australia, the Forum will include presentations and open discussions on how the best hot springs operators in the world’s most competitive markets build profitable spa, bathing and accommodation businesses; which evidence-based studies in hot springs bathing practices provide proof of the health benefits of hot springs; and the various ways cultures utilize natural hot water for health, wellbeing and community happiness.

Participants will also jointly explore ways the global hot springs industry can work together in marketing, research and development and on philanthropy projects to bring hot springs bathing facilities to communities in third-world countries'.

The press release certainly pushes the right buttons and this initiative is to be applauded. What I have my doubts about, is the insistence on commercialism. Little is done to preserve, protect and allow enjoying hot springs so how hob-nobbing with the rich will enhance this remains a question mark.

More in depth soaking enthusiasts will be looking at:

'On the table for discussion:

• How do the best hot springs operators build profitable businesses? 
• What are the key evidence-based studies supporting hot springs bathing practices? How can they be promoted better? 
• How do global cultures use natural hot water for health, wellbeing, and community happiness? 
• How can the global hot springs industry better work together in marketing, research and development? 
• Are there joint philanthropy projects that can bring hot spring facilities to third-world communities? '

Tellingly there is yet to be a sponsor for this part of the programme .... 

Especially in China, hot spring development is taking on a commercial dimension unbeknown to traditional soakers. Take the doughnut hotel (Yahoo, July 20):

'It's a hotel Homer Simpson could love.

China's Sheraton Huzhou Hot Spring Resort's deliciously shaped oval design looks like a giant doughnut. The building, dubbed the "horseshoe hotel," opens next month in the town by the same name, Huzhou'. 

Though it names itself a hot spring hotel it's own web site is conspicuously silent on what it entails.

More high end development pouring in. Banyan Tree Chongqing is receiving it's first guests (Breakingtravelnews, September 6): 

'Nestled within the new Banyan Tree Chongqing Beibei, the first international hot spring resort in Chongqing, the resort embraces the natural healing waters of the North Hot Springs'. 

Dieng plateau, Java, Indonesia. From My Journey keeps Inspiring.

Mostly unhopeful dreams 

• Brunei

Brunei is eyeing yet again the development of a remaining hot spring. Read what the article (mysarawak, July 30) thinks is the good news: 

'Second Minister of Resource Planning and Environment Datuk Amar Awang Tengah Ali Hasan said lessons could be learnt from the Republic of Czechoslovakia, which managed to turn a valley with a hot spring into a renowned medical tourism attraction.

“Tourism is a money spinning industry, and it can provide employment and economic spinoffs. Czechoslovakians used their creativity and innovation on the valley, which now contributes to their national coffers,” he said at a Sarawak Energy Berhad (SEB) gathering in Hotel Seri Malaysia to present Raya goodies to orphans, the disabled (OKUs), and single mothers over the weekend.

Awang Tengah said Lawas had great attractions in the Merarap hot spring and Mount Murud, the highest mountain in Sarawak'.

'Indigosix outing! Yipeeee ...'

West Bali, Indonesia: Menjangan hot springs. Source: nininathania

• Laos

Hot springs are increasingly becoming popular says the Vientiane Times (July 19). But is this the start of the end?

'The house's rooms will be built as many visitors like to bathe naked in the spring; however, visitors are required to bring a large towel to cover themselves when they emerge from the water. Bathers say they feel healthy after they finish and walk out of the bathrooms at the hot spring.
Since the bath opened last year, visitors there are mostly Lao people. Mr Phouvanh added about 40 foreign tourists per month have visited the hot spring to relax in the refreshing water. The cost to use the bath is 5,000 kip for a foreigner and 2,000 kip for a Lao person.
The department has received funding from the state to build a bathhouse and a souvenir shop at the site'.

It's bye-bye to this?

'For many local people, the spring is even better than a regular hot shower – while they have electricity installed in their homes, most still head to the springs for the traditional experience.
The local community often prefers to bathe communally in the hot spring before turning in for the night and again before breakfast'.

Then on the 25th of August, the same source mentions finding a new hot spring:

'Zone Administrative Office Head, Mr Somphone Southam, said a group from his office visited the hot spring at Poungloc village earlier last week on an unofficial trip, and discovered the spring was the biggest any of them had seen in the province.
“The spring boiled in the middle of a stream in the centre of the village; it bubbles hot water to a height of about 40cm while the stream covers the entire area,” he said. Mr Somphone said a local official had told him the village was located near an ancient volcano, which explained the hot spring activity'. 

Obviously, authorities want to develop the site ....

Viengthong hot spring, as it is.

• Malaysia. 

Another nail in the coffin for a yet to be well visited hot spring? Metro online broadcast Malaysia (21 August ) reports: 

'AMONG hot springs in Hulu Selangor, two are already well known — Kerling and the Hulu Tamu hot spring in Ulu Yam. 

However, a third hot spring is begging for some attention. It is located in Jalan Ariff 12, Taman Ariff, Kuala Kubu Baru.

Although the hot spring was discovered almost 10 years ago, it remains a well-kept secret among locals.

...

Last year, the Hulu Selangor District Council (MDHS) beautified the area by covering the dirt road to the area with gravel, building a small concrete pathway, and a few seats. However, there are still no toilets and changing facilities.

MDHS’ aim is to make the Kuala Kubu Baru hot spring an international tourist destination'.

• Philippines

Asian Correspondent (September 2) visits Manquinit hot springs, Coron islands, the Philippines: 

'... reputedly one of just two saltwater hot springs in the world'. 

Not really good research. A simple google search will lead you to f.i. the Zhaori Saltwater Hot Springs, Taiwan. It's 

'This is one of only three saltwater hot springs in the world along with the springs on Kyushu Island of Japan and Sicily in Italy'. 

But no Manquinit. Or what about Mount Mangunui, New Zealand? Triton Bay, China?

   

Who knows this hot spring in Chaiya, Thailand?

  

Further afield. The Secret of India website lists a couple of Indian hot springs.

An update ...

Quite significant news is that I have moved away from Southeast Asia, so sometime in the future, first hand reports will dry up .... In the meantime though, I still have a couple of reports upcoming, of a journey I made through the northern part of south Thailand. 

Think Green? Not Soak? 

This years earthquake and tsunami exposed Japan's over reliance on atomic energy.Within Japan this has lead to a more sustained push for geothermal energy. What makes Japan stand out from other countries is the ingrained appreciation of soaking. Any possible project in Japan which would affect soaking possibilities stands less of a chance of becoming a reality. The Mainichi Daily News (Sep. 3) reports on an onsen hotel (Kuju Kanko) with electricity generation. Unfortunately the price returned by the government prohibited the electricity generation from being profitable (great policy) but this hotel did get a much more positive image from generating it's own electricity, enabling the owner to hark back some of the losses. Monocolumn adds in another article the fear that the push for more geothermal energy will have adverse effects for soakers especially as the overall scope that geothermal energy will have a sufficient contribution to Jaspan's overall energy needs:

'.. many hoteliers and innkeepers are dead-set against having geothermal prospectors drilling in their backyards. They worry that a power plant nearby would harm the environment; worse, it might deplete the heat that keeps the local springs warm, they say'.

Kenji Hall, the reporter of this article, adds a positive example of how the two could exist, similar to the above experience and concludes:

'The technology will need more success stories like that to avoid being branded as the villain. Geothermal energy won’t likely to win the sympathy vote if the public has to choose between a niche technology and a leisure activity that has been around for centuries'.

With oil prices refusing to drop substantially, the lesser endowed geothermal countries in the region are revving up their investment plans. Both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai (Thailand) will be part of research and find for a 2-10 MW installation. Malaysia are thinking bigger, 36 MW (Phase 1).

'Speaking after negotiation meeting between the stakeholders for the Geothermal Power Plant project at Kg Tass Balai Raya here, Wednesday, he [Project Director Andrew Amaladoss from Tawau Green Energy Sdn Bhd] also assured the kampung people in the nearby area that the project has no threats to them.He said that among the advantages of using geothermal power was it is clean, required not a big area, cost saving and is not harmful to the people and environment'.

Added was that the geothermal project is not harmful to the people or the environment ... Actually the Think GeoEnergy website is a good source for geothermal energy news. From the past months there are reports on projects in Lampung (Indonesia), Lahendong (Indonesia) Sarulla (Indonesia), Naga (Philippines), the Philippines and West Sumatra. And more ... 

  

Crossing the divide, culturally 

Hot springs in China are becoming a target for Japanese hot spring companies. relax.com.sg reports that:

'According to a recent report by the UK's Financial Times, Gokurakuyu aims to open its first spa in China by March 2011 with its partners, an affiliate of China's Citic Group and Japanese investment company MBK. The company has also announced an aggressive expansion plan to run 100 variously-sized spa houses in China within five years, more than it operates in Japan'.

Coming from Japan, they are well aware of the different soaking culture in China, f.i. solely targeting businessmen rather than being a family outing (btw what about businesswomen?). Another example:

'In parts of China where people feel uncomfortable bathing communally, Gokurakuyu expects to include an area for customers who want to wear swimming costumes'.

Seeing how in the past, Chinese authorities have lambasted non-costume swimming as 'western decadence' it probably means that Japanese 'bathing' will not be the next big thing ... Meanwhile back on the theme of China and Japan, a recent internet report pointed to the fact that many Chinese wish to visit Japan to enjoy their hot springs as opposed to westerners ... Than what does Japan think about this? Weird culture (sideline):

'A NATURE park in China’s Hunan province is offering free admission and prizes to virgin females aged 22 or older, according to the state-run Global Times'.

Sex discrimination? Culture? A Japanese hot spring TV show has caused controversy as it employs 'an adult video model' to crank up the ratings.

'The “Let’s go to the spa and more!” broadcast by Japanese Fuji TV Station is actually an “adaption” of the old one “Go to the Spa!” which was first introduced to audiences of all ages in 2000, and mainly features the hidden hot springs (secret hot springs or secret tang) throughout Japan. In 2008, the show took a daring change by featuring the female host wearing only a towel and its name was changed to Let’s Go to the New Spa! The rating increased slightly after that. In the latest revamped programme, the host strips her clothing one by one before entering the hot springs naked'.

As soaking au naturel is a cornerstone of Japanese culture and many villages manage to attract significant numbers of tourists wishing to enjoy a soak dare we say naked, tv programs denying this seem a bit unreal. Anyway in reality it's all very tame ...However, already back in February Japansugoi reported on the increasing popularity of the show (DVD's also available). It notes:

'While nudity is not a big issue on Japanese TV, this onsen show by its very nature has the charms of the onsen demonstrated by way of a female reporter’s nude bathing'.

Just one of a series of photo's by Paula Bronstein. Text with the series:

'Japanese earthquake victims enjoy a communal bath set up in tents by the Japanese Self Defense Force March 26, 2011 in Rikuzentakata, Iwate, Japan. With hundreds of thousands made homeless by the quake the baths are essential since the makeshift evacuation centers have little running water'.

The regional news

Soaking festivals are the in-thing. The Philippine Information Agency reports (Sept. 9) from Los Baños:

'The Special Science and Nature City of the Philippines will celebrate Bañamos—a unique healing waters festival—beginning September 14 that will highlight the town’s colorful history capped by various fun-filled events. ... The Dia Aguas Santas (Day of the Holy Waters) is set on September 17 where a symbolic public bathing will be held in a hot spring pool blessed with holy water near the Immaculate Conception Parish Church'.

And ziplining and soaking? Head for Bamungao Pangasinan, Philippines:

'Zipline ride offers you a view of villages, extinct Mt. Balungao, and flowing hot and cold spring'.

Annah Rais hot spring, Sarawak (Malaysia) continues to gather favourable reviews. For instance Dawn Poh. And JG. That has been noted by local politicians who will now move their constituency up to the 'modern' world. Borneo Post report (September 5):

'Speaking of one famous spot, the Anah Rais hot spring, he [Deputy Tourism Minister Datuk Dr James Dawos Mamit] proposed that a study on the carrying capacity of the spring be conducted to improve the facilities there'.

Oh no, study the carrying capacity! Pai, Mae Hong Son (Thailand) keeps on moving up. And so does it's hot springs. New kid on the block: Pai HotSpring Spa Resort (lot of effort in finding a name). Though probably just a rename (from Thapaispa) their own guest review page gives a positive shine on the rename. However continue on tripadvisor and you will be shocked by for instance this entrance from August 2010:

'This hotel is filthy and just rely on the hotspring appeal to rip travelers off'.

I wasn't impressed either but that was 5 years ago ... A Russian language, extensive site on Siam's soaks. Wrapping up, more cross cultural exchange. The US is doing it's part ... to help China's science get a grip of it's hot springs. Montana State University is leading a research project in Tengchong, Yunnan. Part of the surprise is that in Tengchong visitors boil eggs in the springs, which in Montana would be an offense and get you a nice fine ...

Another update, mid-June 2011

Soaking in Southeast Asia has slowly been gaining more popularity, the blog receives more than 40 visits per day and more than 4,500 page views per month, which is increasing month by month. The Himal blog is also seeing more traffic (despite no new entries; I'll be reworking and updating the original ones), but surprisingly Soaking in Siam is lagging behind. That despite for instance two new original blog entries from Phetchabun province, Phu Toei and Nam Rong.

Most popular entry on this site is the entry on art and hot springs though the more recent entry on mud is catching up; in the last 30 days this entry clocked up three times as many entries as the art entry, which itself just had more pageviews than other older blog entries. Considering the amount of time I put into the mud entry I am not at all disappointed.

Upcoming is less great news as I will be leaving the region in the foreseeable future, though more Thai soaks will be added before. As well as an overview of Thailands top soaks.

Fishy business once more

• Apparently a never ending story. Travelfish Siem Reap blog has an entry on the fishy foot massage business. Though they also note the concern, they repeat how pleasurable it is:

  'Admittedly, it’s not completely unpleasant having your feet nibbled, though many would doubtless prefer the Princess Fergie school of toe-nibbling to having actual schools of fish perform the dirty deed. The sensitive among us clearly find the experience so earth-shatteringly, ooh, ticklish, that screams, shrieks and loud whoops are in order, causing numerous people to drop their beers with fright. Actually I made the last bit up, but to the screamers, do you have to? Really?'.

  The rash of fish massages is now spreading to the other haven of tourists, free of legalities, Phnom Penh.

• Last month the Guardian had a feature on fish pedicures as it debates their increasing popularity and health issues:

  'Following the decision by more than a dozen states in the US to ban the pedicures over fears they could spread infections and disease, scientists from the Health Protection Agency have begun an investigation into potential risks. A spokesperson for the agency said that, while it did not expect to be enforcing a ban in the UK and believed the risk of catching an infection from a fish foot spa to be "very small", it was looking at publishing guidelines for the public'.

  The article continues and as always the case in Britain, protecting the fish may well be the single most important issue if a ban is imposed!

Beautiful blogs

• Well, I pride myself on my ability to seek out obscure hot springs in what many would consider a wild goose chase. However a blog entry by Ben seems to encapsulate an even more determined spirit. On a hunch he seeks a zoak in Zhongdian, Yunnan, China. He was advised to find out a hardly known hot spring with magical properties. On his bike it took him no less than 5 days to find the place, each day filled with taking in the surroundings and having mini-adventures (and doubling back to Zhongdian). He eventually finds it, a small enclosure packed with mud and just a trickle of boiling hot water.

  'Concerning Nom’s therapeutic, secret mountaintop, cave-side hot spring bathing pool, there wasn’t, not even for a moment, a sense of being let down. Rather, it was a fitting cosmic reminder that beyond any doubt the search for this mud was the real reward, and never, no matter how nice the pool would have been, it wouldn’t have been anything more than me swimming in some hot water. It’s also I think perfectly fitting that both times I followed Nom’s advice to go seek out some amazing water, there wasn’t any water to behold. I mean, really, that’s something. Yet, in one manner I think he was right. I can only assume through some extreme-condensation that the water in this formerly brimming pool must have had some residual super-magic in it. While the extended exercise in the crisp mountain air I think has done my body good, and while this is just anecdotal, my new ability to read minds I think is worth noting, and cannot be solely attributed to cycling in the Himalaya. Though, to risk sounding less than humble, being a mind reader now isn’t really all that much of a change, as it seems China only has one thought on its mind: “You can’t use chopsticks.”'.

  As always the journey is worthier than the destination. Too often in modern days we are only concerned with the destination, overlooking the more valuable journey. If I would be in the habit of awarding annual prizes for Best Story on Soaking, Ben would have bagged this years prize easily ...

Geothermal energy, a hot item?

• China is aggressively seeking to increase the importance of geothermal energy in meeting the countries seemingly insatiable demand for power. Could be worse.
  
• No less then Pippa Middleton will help in promoting geothermal energy in the UK according to Think Geoenergy, though not known in which capacity ...
• In Japan, a turn has taken place to geothermal power. An investment advice notes that despite Japan's volatile geothermality, power has not been developed as in other countries. Why not invest?

  'However, by and large its thermal regions have been transformed into onsen – hot spring resorts - which are a hugely significant phenomenon of Japanese culture. Many of the best resources are in national parks and in popular tourist spots. Indeed, reverence for hot springs is such that one geothermal energy expert declared that they are regarded as almost holy by the Japanese'.

The cultured

• AsiaSpa has a feature article on onsens in Niseko, Japan. This Singapore edited, East Asia marketed magazine apparently acknowledges that spa in essence (and naturality) is a hot spring but as it focuses on the higher income generating minority of the regions public, it can't suggest a local soak. However Japanese soaks come with instructions, all matter of fact:

  'The most common mistake first-time visitors make is to enter the baths in swim suits, which are not allowed'.

  Well, as anyone visiting a Southeast Asian soak will contest (with exception of Vietnam), one would believe that swim suits are not allowed as well; everybody just soaks in their daily clothes! Other pointers: don't stare, don't be noisy, don't bring your own drinks. In other words if visiting a regional soak here, expect them to be noisy with visitors staring and drinking. And consider yourself lucky because it could be a lot worse ...
• Tourists from China are spoiling weekend aways in Taiwan:

  'No work, no computers, just relaxing in the hot springs, taking a drive around, and eating. But the Chinese tourists staying at the resort almost spoiled it'.

  What a horror!
  

Hot trend?

• Anyway, the region is trying it's best. Newcomer to cater to more demanding visitors is Alba Health Thermal Resort, next to Thanh Tan hot spring near Hue, Vietnam. Pictures are on Picasa. They claim to the first balneotherapy resort in Vietnam, balneotherapy referring to medicinal use as opposed to recreational use. Now why this distinction? If soaking recreationally, surely the medical benefits would also be included. Or is it simply an expensive term to discern itself from the hordes? Anyway, looks like a nice place to stay and I hope that they become a guiding light to others. As long as they don't move any more upmarket ...
• Burilasai Hot Spring Resort and Spa, Mae-On, Thailand is another newcomer, at least in name. Not much info ... It mentions 'hot mineral', hopefully it means hot mineral water, because the pictures seem not to emphasize it's soaking qualities ... 269 friends on Facebook. One respondent on Agoda mentions the

  'spa is great'.

Tops

• Webecoist start off with 13 natural swimming pools from around the world. Some hot, some not. Yangbajain (Tibet) and Blue Lagoon (Iceland) are the hottest, but neither is natural! Representing Southeast Asia are Tat Kuang Si waterfall in Lao and Mabinay spring in the Philippines.
• Top diving equipment has it's Top 10 Unique Natural Springs of the Philippines. 1-10: Salinas Salt spring (not hot), Tangub HS, Malumpati (not), Hidden Valley HS, Timoga Cold Spring, Ardent HS, Tukuhan HS, Sto. Niño Cold Spring, Asin HS and Tiwi HS at no. 10. All

  'really worth visiting'.

• Staying with the Philippines, there are also

  '6 Ways to Soak in Ardent Spring in Camiguin'.

  With crossed legs, folded knees, one leg folded, lying flat (legs inward or outward), floating in frog position! Ha! By tagabukid8705.

• Then there are 15 Laguna hot springs. An alphabetical listing.

Finally, there's the new hot spring of Taal volcano, the Philippines (source). It's lake is increasing in heat and would qualify as a hot spring.